So, I will be picking up a 30ft bunkhouse TT soon.

Here is how my X is currently setup.
7.3L, Ford "HD" replacement 4R100. Triple disc billet TC, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, 6637 filter, Gauges, 4" Procomp lift. 35" Toyo M/Ts(E Rated). Hellwig Rear sway bar.

I run a DP tuner with 80hp tow tunes and 65hp tunes(among others). Factory 7.3L A/T cooler.

I live in Colorado and to date I have had no issues with power or EGTs pulling the major passes on I-70 with my 4runner on my Car trailer. I figure its around 6000lbs though. Tranny temps will creep up to around 215* at the top in 75-80* weather.

However, this trailer is going to be around 6700lbs dry. I figure around 7500-8000lbs loaded.

1. Is the 6.0L tranny cooler definitely the way to go, or would piggy-backing another BIG cooler do the job?

2. Obviously, I am buying a weight distribution hitch and sway control setup. Although I would like some advice on which ones are best. ????

I already have a Hellwig rear sway bar installed. Plus, I may even upgrade the current hitch as well since the hitch pin hole has seen better days. Its pretty "oval-ed" out.

3. Do you think an air bag setup will be necessary?

I already have a Prodigy brake controller, so that should be handled.

4. Anything else you would recommend?

 

6.0 tranny cooler is the way to go for sure, everything esle you have done is awesome!! You can add air bags or RAS to help with sag, just make sure you have the proper tongue weight when you load.

For the hitch, a weight distributing anti sway set up is recommended, I use the Reese Dual Cam set up and it works well.

 

1. I was pulling I70 passes with my '99 F250 PSD and my '04 F350 PSD and never had a single problem with over heating my engine or tranny. The key is not to try to do 75 mph. It really is ok to slow down on the hills. I thought about changing out the stock cooler to an aftermarket one, but never had the need. I just slowed down and let the engine and tranny do their job at about 2,500 rpms in what ever gear they chose.

2. If you can justify a high end one (propride) then go that route, otherwise they are all about the same. With the standard WD hitch it is better to get a 10k plus as it will give you thicker bars and of course stronger components.

3. Air bags might be necessary if you are hauling lots of gear and passengers in the back of the X. You might consider adding a RAS to the rear. Lots of threads on those.

4. Check your fluids. Air up the front and rear tires to the maximum allowed on the side wall. Plan for something to go wrong and then you might have the tools, parts and phone numbers you need to keep going (oh that's right... you are Jeep guy, so you know what I am talking about, lol). Have a great time.

Subscribe to the : https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...intenance.html

 

I believe the 6.0 cooler(or big aftermarket) is the way to go. Several buddies have put them on theirs and the tranny stays much cooler while pulling. I've had one for a while but not installed it due to having to take grille guard off. I will do it when I put on springs in next few weeks. As far as airbags, they make a lot of difference. It will stop the 'jounce' and also add stability if you hook them up independently. Good luck and happy camping!

 

I tow a 9000# loaded (and verified via a CAT scale) 31' dual slide bunk house (35' hitch to bumper)...I have pulled it through your state a few times and up and over Vail and Loveland...although I have the V10 with a better cooling system...215° isn't bad at all at the crest...that's a long/hard pull...but more cooling capacity is something the 7.3's need...

From what I've read on here...the 6.0L cooler is the way to go (as others have responded)

You've basically got 2 different choices.

Friction based and non-friction based.

For friction based there are also 2 choices out there.

1) Reese Dual Cam Strait-Line Weight Distribution w Sway Control - Trunnion Bar - 12,000 lbs GTW, 1,200 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66074 (I only posted this so you see the hitch...this particular link does NOT include the adjustable shank and would need to be purchased separately)

2) Equal-I-zer BRAND hitch Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution System w/ 4-Point Sway Control - 12,000 lbs GTW, 1,200 lbs TW Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution EQ90-00-1200 (this one includes the shank and everything)

For non-friction based there are also 2 choices out there

1) Hensley Arrow (what I have)
2) ProPride (basically a Hensley with some changes...I know Sean (the owner of ProPride) probably just shuddered when he read what I wrote).

The BEST would be either of the latter two...there are always used Hensleys to be found...not sure how many used ProPrides have hit the market yet since that company is fairly new...but the virtual pivot point projection style hitches are head and shoulders above all friction based hitches...and they come at a high price though...

[quote=JeepincjI already have a Hellwig rear sway bar installed. Plus, I may even upgrade the current hitch as well since the hitch pin hole has seen better days. Its pretty "oval-ed" out. [/quote]

I protected my hitch pin hole like this...a simple $0.10 item!





What causes the hole to round out is the "crook" in the neck of the hitch pin...as it rides in and out of the hole...it rounds or ovals it out...by putting the hose clamp on the pin...it stops the "crook" from entering the hole and keeps only straight areas of the pin in the hole...try it out!

I've personally found that with my 1100-1200#'s of tongue weight...I preferred some extra umph for the rear of the Ex...I went with the RAS (Roadmaster Active Suspension)...many on here are VERY HAPPY with the air bags...but for me...the price was essentially the same at the time I did my RAS when compared to air bags...and the RAS gives you some added resistance to axle wrapping whereas the air bags do nothing to assist there...just a personal choice as both will work to "enhance" the rear spring pack and reduce sagging...check out the RAS before you make your decision...another option is change the springs...which many have also done!

[quote=JeepincjI already have a Prodigy brake controller, so that should be handled. [/quote]

Prodigy is a great controller...even after all these years it has been on the market...it's what I use too and have been extremely happy with it!

Once you decide on your trailer and hitch...go to a CAT scale to make sure you have everything loaded properly and you have your tongue weights in line...when I first loaded my TT and hit the scale...I found I had a tongue weight of 1450#'s!!! ...I had to rearrange my load to get the tongue weight to within receiver ratings...when you do go to the scales...go when you have your trailer and Excursion loaded as you would for a trip...weighing in a non-trip setup...well...doesn't make sense...

Oh yeah...check your receiver rating...early Ex's came with receivers rated at 1000# max tongue weight with WD hitch...so please check that.

Other than that...that's all I'm coming up with the moment!

Good luck and let me know if something isn't clear.

Joe.

 

There are hitch pins that have a D-ring on the end instead of a bend so they don't egg the hole.

I have a bent pin but the way my receiver is there is a little grove that the retaining clip sits in that holds the bent part of the pin away from the hole.

 

As far as WD hitches are concerned, I am not very happy with my new Reese Dual cam, and after searching the net, I am not the only one having the same problem.

If you decide to get the Reese, make sure it is installed by a mechanic that will install it well and test it before you take it home.

I cannot see that the Equalizer would have any of the issues that I am having with my current one and should work fine.

I am SERIOUSLY considering going with the new Anderson WD Hitch

Andersen Manufacturing Inc.

Here is a post on another forum with my exprience with with the new Reese Dual cam:

RV.net post about the Reese

 

Okay, so I bought my new camper today. Its a 2001 Fleetwood Terry 30S with rear triple bunks. It has the "Northwest" package so it has heated holding tanks and extra insulation which will allow us to camp early/later into the year.

Dry weight is only 5500lbs. With water pushes it to 5900lbs. So, I figure loaded with everything will still be below 7000lbs. I towed it home from Red Feather, CO up in the mountains.

It was windy today. And, it definitely has some sway to it in the gusts. That was expected, so I will be ordering a weight distribution hitch w/ anti-sway tonight.

I will also be getting a 6.0L tranny cooler. It was around 97* today and tranny temps were at 215* without pulling any passes at all. This was pretty much all downhill driving and flats only.

 

Okay, so here we go.

26 row or 31 row for a 01' 7.3L???

5C3Z-7A095-CA 26 row cooler
5C3Z-7A095-B 31 row cooler

Which one fits better?

 

Same.

The only difference between the two is price. Buy the cheapest one.

Stewart

 

I've used the straight "barbell" type pins for well over 10 years with zero problems.



Stewart

 

Just saw this in your sig. Curious as to why you have a "7.3L intercooler waiting to be installed" when you own a 7.3L and already have one.

Stewart

 

I agree on the locking pins. I had ovaled out the reciever on my old expedition in only 4 years of used with a standard pin. I ended up replacing the reciever on that vehicle, and I have used locking straight pins ever since without a hint of ovaling in the expedition (while I had it) or my Excursion

 

Only caution is when you go with this style pin (or any pin for that matter)...make sure you understand the ratings of the pin and the weight you are pulling are within the ratings set by the pin manufacturer...

Some of the ones out there may not be rated for loads over 5,000#'s...so just do your homework!...remember there is a difference between locking up a bike rack and pulling 9,000#'s with your receiver...

I am NOT saying this is a bad idea...just do your homework and understand the ratings is all...

Joe.

 

I run a tru-cool in line with my factory cooler and see 150-160 temps hauling my 8k+ trailer. I also have RAS and 60t. I also through one of those proprides on. I like it so far but I am close if not over my hitch weight. Good luck