We are going through rear wheel bearings in a matter fo a few miles. I pulled the axles, drained/removed all the diff fliud. It was full of metal. The wheels beaings we bought at Auto Zone are being pressed on at a local shop then disinigrating. We've been told we are putting in the wrong bearings which sounds resonable but we don't know which ones are right. It too expesnive to keep trying different ones.

It's a 1972 Ford f-100 4x4 390 4bbl 4 speed. I am becoming a pro at a job I shouldn't be doing over and over again.

Steve

 

Vettedad I searched and found this part numbers

Timken/Wheel Bearing -Part Number: 514003P ( Autozone)

O'reily Auto parts
Option # 1
•Rear
•All Wheel Drive
•Ford 3300 Lb. Axle
•Quantity Per Vehicle: 2
Part # : 514003 | Line: MPB

Option # 2
•Rear
•9 Inch Ring Gear
•3300 Lb. Axle
•Quantity Per Vehicle: 2
Part # : 514003 | Line: BCA

Option #3
•Rear - Spicer 60
- Quantity Per Vehicle: 2

•Rear - Spicer 44
- Quantity Per Vehicle: 2
Part # : A7 | Line: BCA
Hope this Helps.

 

It would help a lot if I knew what I had. How can i tell? Thanks BTW.

 

I don't owen a 4x4 but I searched based on the info you posted and thinking everything is stock on the rear end sorry just trying to help. maybe someone else will give it a shot we have pretty knowledgeable people here

 

Do you have a nut to tighten the drum when everything is all put together maybe you are preloading the bearing to tight, try tightening the nut just enough so that when you try to wiggle the drum it doesn't have any play and then go about a 1/8 of a turn more.I was having the same problem when I did my rear brakes on my f 250 2wd, I over tighten the nut that holds the drum and only drove it one block and the bearing disintegrated and had to do it all over maybe that's what is happening to you hopefully this info helps

 

First let me say I appreciate your help and suggestions. I was out of town when I started this thread and only looked at pics tonight. It is def a Ford 9 inch. The half shaft bolts into the housing with 4 bolts in a rectangle rather than one nut like a front bearing. It looks like the part numbers are the same for the first two bearings except that three letter suffix. I'll have to check that out. Maybe buying at O'Riely's instead of Auto Zone will make a difference. We are hauling it out to my mom's barn tomorrow. The HOA in my neighborhood got fussy about us working on it in our driveway.

Thanks,

Steve

 

Oreilly's or Autozone - it doesn't matter who sells 'em. What does matter is who makes 'em. Go for a top shelf brand like Timken or SKF.

.. and then follow your repair manual in detail - torque settings, lubrication, everything.

 

1968/72 F100: Two possible 9" rear axles. One has a 9" ring gear with 28 spline axleshafts, t'other has a 9 3/8" ring gear with 31 spline axleshafts.

I doubt your truck has the 9 3/8 ring gear/31 spline axleshafts as its specific axle bearing and seal are difficult to find. BUT, if it does...the following info does not apply!

D8AZ-1225-C (replaced D8AZ-1225-A & B; C9AZ-1225-A; C1SZ-1225-A & B) .. Rear Axle Bearing-BALL Type / Bearing stamped with BIN: 88128 or FPP or F208AKK or F-208-L

BIN: Bearing Industry Number, what autoparts stores, bearing shops go by.

9" applications: 1961/67 F100 / 1966/77 Bronco / 1968/72 F100 with 28 spline axleshafts / 1969/74 E200 / 1973 F100 / 1974/79 F100, 1975/79 F150 & 1978/79 Bronco all w/o tapered roller brg/seal combo.

1975/79 E100/150 / 1980/86 F100/150, Bronco & E100/150 // Myriad 1961/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars / 1980 Granada/Monarch/Versailles w/rear disc brakes.

Buying cheap made in China crap axle bearings sold by most chain autoparts is the problemo. Go to NAPA, indie autoparts stores and buy Made in the USA.

Don't forget that this bearing requires a retainer that cannot be reused. Retainers usually come with axle bearings.

btw: 4/1/2008: O'Reilly bought CSK (Checker-Shucks-Kragen) Auto who also owned Murrary. So they all sell the same made in China crap, as does Blotto-Zone.