Brake Conversion
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
Brake Conversion
I would like to use a MC with equal front and rear reservoirs. Is there such a thing? IIRC, I can take the rod out of a manual brake MC and put it in a power brake MC, right?
I have read that there is 3 different length rods. What is the best length/year rod to use?
I need a proportioning valve too, right?
All the old fords I've seen have a few coils in the brake line coming from the MC. Can I buy coiled brake line to run to the brake lines on the frame?
Posting Guru
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From: Sedro-Woolley, WA
It sounds pretty basic. Perhaps the early seventies drum/drum master cylinders and porportioning valve will work. I'm not sure since my upgrade was to disc/drum and I used a 76 master, p, valve and I-beam setup.
As for the coiled brake lines, I bent my own and hand coiled them around a can of pork and beans.
As for the coiled brake lines, I bent my own and hand coiled them around a can of pork and beans.
New User
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Centennial
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rake-swap.html
f100discs
Here are some links on that conversion.
f100discs
Here are some links on that conversion.
Posting Guru
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
What set up are you planning on using? Drum/Drum, Disc/ Drum, or Disc /Disc? If you go Drum/Drum, then no Prop valve is needed, any other format requires a prop valve... Yes you can use the Hydraulic brake light switch, just tee it into one of the lines as close to the Master Cylinder as possible.. Garbz is the guy to ask about conversions maybe he will chime in.. if not send him a PM .. pre 65 slicks can use the CPP dual master but I am not sure about 65 and 66 on.. If you have questions be very specific the more info we have the easier it is to give you a concise answer.... Have fun with your truck! 
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From: Townsend, MT
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
I am looking at swapping a dual reservoir master cylinder on to my '66 F250 4X4. It has drum brakes all around.
IIRC, I can take the rod out of a manual brake MC and put it in a power brake MC, right?
I have read that there are at least 3 different length rods. What is the best length/year rod to use?
I need a proportioning valve too, right?
All the old fords I've seen have a few coils in the brake line coming from the MC. Can I buy coiled brake line to run to the brake lines on the frame?
IIRC, I can take the rod out of a manual brake MC and put it in a power brake MC, right?
I have read that there are at least 3 different length rods. What is the best length/year rod to use?
I need a proportioning valve too, right?
All the old fords I've seen have a few coils in the brake line coming from the MC. Can I buy coiled brake line to run to the brake lines on the frame?
Why do I not need a proportioning valve? All drum/drum 4X4's after '66 had them. Right now I can lock the rear tires up while the fronts don't do very much.
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
When I converted to the dual master cylinder, My brake balance improved radically it had been the rears like yours doing all of the work, but with the dual master it balanced out much better. Obviously you can add a prop valve if you feel you need one, but try it without first and see how it goes.... remember any and every pickup will want to lock up the rear end under heavy braking due to the weight balance difference... as you brake the weight and center of gravity shift forward, lightening th rear end up. making it easier for the rears to lockup... the fronts do about 60% + of the braking.
Tell me are your front Drums the cheaper single piston version that Ford used to do, or have they been upgraded to the dual piston like you have on the rear brakes? I converted my front single piston drums to dual piston a few months ago, and it made a drastic difference because it is pushing on both brake shoes in the front rather than just one...... my brake wear is very even now, and my front is more prone to lock than it was previously ...something to consider!
Tell me are your front Drums the cheaper single piston version that Ford used to do, or have they been upgraded to the dual piston like you have on the rear brakes? I converted my front single piston drums to dual piston a few months ago, and it made a drastic difference because it is pushing on both brake shoes in the front rather than just one...... my brake wear is very even now, and my front is more prone to lock than it was previously ...something to consider!
Posting Guru
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Yes to Coiled Brake Line you can use it, but you can buy pre-manufactured Brake lines usually for not much more, and they save the headache of the bending process... My local Napa will make up the lines with all of the bends pretty cheaply if i just bring them the old lines... It saves the headaches
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glendale Arizona
Your system needs a distribution valve. It provides fluid to the front and rear axles and in case of a failure slams the valve over center closing off the ruptured line. Any drum drum donor truck can donate on or you can buy new.
If you are doing discs you will need a prop valve.
If you are 100 percent stuck on a hokey juice switch use a 3/16 inverted flare by 1/8 female iron pipe Tee to mount the switch in line. Come out of the rear and place the tee a short distance with a short tube. Then continue to the distribution block.
Depending on what year you get the rods are removable and threaded. This can be modified to accommodate the pedal location. I just did a conversion using a 69 booster and master to a 65 using 3" brakes.
The rod you have on the 66 will actuate the master if you do not add a booster. You may need to take a bit off or add. I like to add a later model eccentric bolt to the pedal to alleviate this.
Garbz
If you are doing discs you will need a prop valve.
If you are 100 percent stuck on a hokey juice switch use a 3/16 inverted flare by 1/8 female iron pipe Tee to mount the switch in line. Come out of the rear and place the tee a short distance with a short tube. Then continue to the distribution block.
Depending on what year you get the rods are removable and threaded. This can be modified to accommodate the pedal location. I just did a conversion using a 69 booster and master to a 65 using 3" brakes.
The rod you have on the 66 will actuate the master if you do not add a booster. You may need to take a bit off or add. I like to add a later model eccentric bolt to the pedal to alleviate this.
Garbz
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