So having fixed most of the major problems on my truck, I'm starting to turn my attention to the minor problems...specifically, the small but annoying oil leaks that have plagued me since I got the truck. I'm 99% certain that the oil pan gasket is the culprit, so that will be my next project. I've read as much as I can find on the topic here and elsewhere, so I'm going to summarize my thinking below, and I'd appreciate it if those of you with more experience (that would be all of you) could point out any errors or omissions.

First, the patient...my 1980 F-150 Custom with the 300-6 engine and C6 transmission:

1. Everyone says that the one-piece oil pan gasket is superior to the four-piece that my year truck requires, so I'd like to switch to that. However, my understanding is that this requires changes in the oil pan itself. You can either grind down some bumps/ridges on the pan, or replace the pan with the right pan from a later year. Given that my pan is somewhat banged up and looks as though it's been overtorqued in the past, I'd like to just replace the pan altogether. Was it 1987 that the pan changed? And will any 1987 or later pan for a truck 300 engine fit?
2. I also understand that the pan can't be removed completely from the engine without raising it. I don't have an engine lift or place to put a rented one, so I am going to have to lift the engine with a jack. How does one do this in a safe manner?
3. So if I am going to do all this work, I might as well replace the oil pump while I'm down there, right? Or is this opening a can of worms? My engine only has 120,000 miles, and I have no reason to suspect impending oil pump problems...I just don't want to have to do this again down the road.

 

Hi Dorsai,

I just did the oil pan gasket again in my 351w and it's a bigger job than it looks. I can't really speak to some of the engine specific items on your list but I wanted to share a couple of items from my last attempt at the job.

I wouldn't get into it without a hoist of some kind. I don't see how you'd be able to get the height needed to free the pan and do the cleaning neccessary and then get the pan back on without a hoist as there is nowhere you can place the jack on the engine block with the pan off of it. Somebody here might have a more creative solution than I, but I'd recommend against it based on personal experience.

Also, the 1 piece seal is much, much better than the 4 piece cheapo kit that is more easily found at Oreilly or Autozone. Getting the end seals to snap in correctly in particular is a real annoyance, especially the back one. The 1 piece is almost always a rubber gasket while the kit gasket is cork.

Best of luck! I'm still waiting for the RTV to set on my latest attempt to seal my pan back up. Hopefully 3rd time is the charm!

 

I did this once on a 351W in my 1970 Mustang, told myself I'll never do it that way again. IIRC I spent about a week on the project.

It is by far best to pull the engine out and put it on a stand....

 

This was one of the first things I did to my F150 when I bought it. The previous owner has stripped the drain plug threads, and used a castle nut, carriage bolt, and washer as a drain plug. Needless to say, I needed a new oil pan.

Let me start by saying it was a complete nightmare. When you raise the engine, you have to consider the clearance you have between the fan and the shroud, the clearance between the transmission bell housing and the firewall, and you also have to pay attention to the rear transmission mount.

There is no way you can pull the pan without raising the motor. I did this little swap back in 2008, so I can't remember how high I had to lift the motor, but it was at least enough to stick a 2x4 underneath the motor mounts to hold the motor.

There were about four bolts between the oil pan and the motor mounts that are a nightmare to get a socket on with the engine still in the truck.

Personally, I would upgrade the oil pump while you're in there. Removing the pan is a nightmare, and you don't want to have to do it again.

As for the one piece gasket, I recommend it. I used the four piece gasket, and I regret that decision.It had two cork runners, and two rubber ends. Aligning the cork with the rubber was a nightmare, especially the rear rubber gasket.

All in all, it's a horrible job to do. Have fun!

 

It looks like any 4.9L oil pan will work. The part numbers are the same for 80-86 and 87+ up at Oreilly and Summit doesn't put any model year restrictions on their replacement oil pans.

FORD 4.9L/300 Ford inline 6-cylinder Oil Pans, Individual - Search Results for Oil Pan - SummitRacing.com

 

Well! Aren't you guys all rays of *****ing sunshine??

Seriously, though, thanks for the feedback. What I'm hearing here is that I need to leave this to the professionals, since I don't have the space or equipment to pull the engine and do it right. I suppose I could drop the pan with the engine in place and try replacing the gasket with a new four-piece one, and just hope for the best with the pan itself. My biggest worry here is that I won't be able to get everything clean enough for the new gasket, and I'll change this problem from an annoyance to something that will keep me from driving the truck.

Wonder how much my local Ford dealer would charge for the job?

 

Way way WAY too much! Try an independent garage or full-service gas station or somethin' like that, this isn't rocket science that you need factory-trained personnel to do.

 

Oh, I wouldn't ACTUALLY take it there - I don't go to dealers with anything that isn't under warranty. I just wonder how outrageous the price would be.

 

Hey Dorsai, I posed this question in the inline 6 forum a while back, and got some great info. Got the gasket and the snap-ups, and hopefully I'll be tackling it myself within the month.

Here's the thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...an-gasket.html

 

AbandonedBronco in the 6-banger forum is pretty good but I'm not so sure I agree with his recommendation to take a grinder to the pan and remove material around the bolt holes, I was taught to use a ball peen hammer to flatten them out again.

But i agree, don't overtighten the bolts, just snug 'em up; if you want to be precise, use an inch-pound torque wrench on 'em.

 

Instead of a grinder, I found a wire wheel bit and a high speed drill work best for cleaning the mating surfaces on the pan, with a little bit of brake cleaner and a coarse paintbrush afterwards to get all the remaining carbon off.

 

I can't tell you what year the oil pan changed, but if you'll ask the parts store what years use the one piece gasket, you'll have your answer. If you can find an older pan, it's easy to grind off the **** that hold the (lousy) cork gasket.

I wouldn't call it a hard job, but it does take a little time.
Yes, you'll need to raise the engine. Loosen the motor mounts, and put a bottle jack under the harmonic balancer. Loosen the motor mounts and rear tranny mount. Lift (you're working on a level surface, wheels chocked, tranny in neutral, right?) until the skinny side of a 2X4 will fit between the mount. Lower. There will be pu-lenty of room to remove the pan. When it goes back together, put the oil pump/pickup tube in the pan (you can't bolt it on and THEN put the pan on) and install it with the pan laying there. I found this to be the worst part of the job because I have big arms.
Remember to tighten the two rearmost and three frontmost bolts first, and the rest after that.

Yes, change the pump and the pickup tube, they're relatively cheap.

I'd also suggest that you change the timing gear cover seal and gasket and install a speedy sleeve on the harmonic balancer so the new seal will live longer or just change the balancer if it's knackered. Naturally, doing this requires you to remove the radiator and hoses, but it's worth the extra trouble. It sucks to install a new pan gasket an then have to cut the front of it off when you decide (later) to replace the front seal.

 

I think you're confusing straightiening the pan with removing the little **** that hold the cork gasket in place. I've used an angle grinder to remove them on several oilpans and it works fine. Naturally, you need to clean the pan inside and out until it's clean enough to eat off, but you ought to anyway. Using a ball pien hammer to flatten the pan won't work, and it'll leak, new gasket or not.

 

I also just did an oil pan gasket on my truck. It's an '81 with the inline six, 2wd. I used the four piece gasket, because that is what the kit came with.

I removed the oil pan by first loosened the bolts. None of them were hard to get to with a universal joint and some extensions. I used an air ratchet after I broke them loose, so that probably helped me out a ton. I loosened the motor mount plates (not the motor mounts, but the plates that they are held on to). Just make sure to spray them down with some penetrating oil. Then I removed the two nuts on the transmission mount (I have the SROD transmission, yours might be different). Either way, remove the nuts holding on the transmission to the cross member.

I positioned a big jack we have in the shop under the harmonic balancer and lifted the engine up that way. It really wasn't that difficult in retrospect. It took me about four to five hours and was the very first one I ever did.

 

I know you say you don't have a place for it, but I have a cherry picker I could throw in the back of my truck and bring to you. It don't take up much room and any flat surface will work.