Hello,

I am contemplating an idea to create a teardrop-like camper trailer out of a old F3 cab and rear fenders. They were in a grass fire where everything burnt. It won't make a good restoration, but I thought that I could use parts to make a neat camper. I would leave the outside rusted...with some sort of sealer (need suggestions) as a patina-look with a woody panel-like rear. Here is my sketch:


2012_06_12_13_42_42.pdf000 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Here is the rusty old truck to be converted.


Untitled | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Untitled | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

As I get started, I need to know what the approximate weight of an empty cab with doors and glass would be. I will be keeping the windshield and door glass, but cutting out the rear window and top of the cab (this cab has the roof falling in from the heat). I will either use the rear fenders or another set off a 49 ford. The rest would be wood. I can get the dimensions from my '52 but not the weight. I am going to need to know what the potential overall weight of the trailer, the balance of the trailer and the toe weight.

For those who are unfamiliar with a teardrop trailer...here is a link to a nice set of plans. LuxoTear Teardrop Trailer Plan Overview

If this has been done, I would love to see pictures of their projects.

Thanks, Steve

PS. How do you imbed the Flickr photos in the post?

 

I think that what you are considering will be quite a bit heavier than any of the Tear Drops

Check in with Jeff at the attached thread - He is up in Alaska and has towed from Arkansas thru the South West and is somewhere up North.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1151782-how-far.html

 

I've never seen one before. I tink you would be better off making a trailer out of the bed... You could build a truck bed tent or if you don't think you would haul anything in it you could building a pop-up on the bed.

 

Steve, that looks like a great idea! I like the woodie idea and the drawing looks great. I have built some woodies and the original sealer that was used was Varnish. Now you can get UV resistant varnish that last longer, but you will still have to recoat at least once a year. You can also do clear coat which is what many of the California woodie guys do. The only problem with that is that wood moves no matter how much finish you have on it and you will get cracks in the seams. The clear coat is much harder to recoat than the Varnish.

 

Aside from the extra weight as somebody already mentioned, I say go for it! I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

Be a sweet build, never seen anyone do a full camper back before. All I can think of is to up the suspension and brakes for the extra weight. Not sure if precautions would have to be taken with it being made from wood, I'd hate to see it crack if you hit a hard bump or something, shouldn't though.





Only way I know to get flickr to work on here is to click the picture, then all sizes, then you can right click the picture to get the image url.

Awesome build idea, nicely done design too.

 

I have personally built over 25 teardrop camping trailers throughout the years. Couple of things to keep in mind. Most of my teardrops average 1000-1200 lbs. That's a 5x8 trailer. Not sure what the cab would weigh but you could make that happen. The key in your build will be balance and the right frame under the cab. That may be hard to achieve. You want to keep your axle positioned so only 10-15% of your weight is on the tongue. Also, your total length from middle of the axle to the tip of the tongue MUST be at least double the width of your axle to avoid fishtailing of the trailer. Consider a torsion axle instead of a leaf spring setup because they ride better. As for coatings on wood, I always recommend SPAR Varnish. Do not use POLYURETHANE. Poly cannot flex in exterior applications and will crack. Spar varnish like Helsman will flex with heat/cold contractions and has a UV inhibitor. Also check out tnttt.com for teardrop info. Bunch of great folks over there. Never build a teardrop from a cab but used many Ford fenders on them. Good luck!

 

I love the idea of this, would be super cool behind a matching truck, keep us posted if you decide to build it.

 

There used to be a lot of "woodies" out there who hit a lot of bumps without cracking. If you make good joints like mortise and tenons, scarf joints, finger joints, or lap joints and use good waterproof glue it should last until the wood rots away. If it kept sealed it will last longer than us...

 

I forgot to ask, what are you going to do for the roof on the part behind the metal cab? Will you do a traditional woodie top like this: This was done with convertible top material which is UV resistant and will last a long time. It has padding underneath on top of basswood slats that are on top of the bow frame struts.

 

Thank you for all of the suggestions. I am still wondering if anyone has a ball park figure for the weight of an empty cab. Is it 400 lbs or is it 1400 lbs? It would be helpful to have an estimate +/-100 lbs. Also, since it is going to be so far forward on the trailer, I am worried that the trailer will be too front heavy to be stable. Most calculations for springs and axle locations require both total weight and weight distribution. Or am I thinking backwards?

I like the idea of a UV resistant cover for the roof. It is a nice way to make compound curves without having to buy an english wheel....although I would like an excuse to buy one...if I had the money. I also thought that it would be nice to have a large retractable roof for those cool summer evenings with the stars resting on your nose.

I looked at the torsion type axles but it seems like there is a huge cost difference from springs. I noticed that many boat trailers have them. Are there any concerns about buying a used boat trailer with a torsion axle to then modify for the frame of the trailer?

How about the drop axles with springs? Any experiences?

How about recommendations for hydraulic brakes for the trailer? Would you recommend them if I was pulling it with a 51 F1 with stock brakes, 302 V8 and M5R2 manual transmission? Is there a favorite set up for a trailer build?

I am very grateful for your input and the experiences that you share.

Thanks,
Steve

 

Have you given any thoughts about maybe just using the rear part of the cab, but using it as the front of the trailer?

 

I'll ballpark a bare cab at 250 pounds, plus another 50-75 for each loaded door. If you're going to have a trailer anywhere in the neighborhood of a ton (2000 pounds), having brakes on it would be a good idea.

If you can find a good used boat trailer to use as a donor, as long as the axle is rated for the load you intend, it should work fine.

 

That is a really interesting idea.

Thanks, Steve

 

Wayne, Thanks so much for the estimate! Steve