Dunno how much the dura-lift is, but O'riellys sells a green electric diesel pump, i was talking to the guy about it today and he says they seem to work great, he has one on his 6.2.

 

Wow, Well that makes me feel relieved. Howd you like the draw up? It always helps me to get things right in my head. Idk about the Mr. Green pump but the facet is about a jackson less than a franklin and it looks/feels really well built and has a nice filter that I thought you would be able to take off but when iwent to twist it off today it felt like it was gonna break. For those of you that know for sure it does just twist off right?

 

let me save you the trouble:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...highlight=pump

been there,done that.
i wasn't the first lol,but i didn't see anyone remove that small filter that comes with them,and thought id try.no such luck.they really are worthless.
funny thing is,the good refer pump from genlightning isn't all that much more $ anyway.20-30 bucks more,depending where you buy the green pump.shoot,i see it online for more than i payed for my refer pump now.the price on them things keeps going up.
im sure it would be "ok" for priming/temp use only.long term,full time running,it doesn't last.

send him a pm.we can't list stuff for sale with prices on here according to forum rules.you'll be surprised with the price.it's likely less than your thinking.
he has a large thread about it on obn too,including price.

 

Oh nice. Well it was an idea anyway, i am not a person for e-pumps... left me sitting one too many times. What kinda sucks is i will eventually have to go back to one for the flow i will need... but that little sacrifice is going to be worth it i hope. Besides the 180ghp Fass pumps have a pretty good rep i hear...for $500 they damn well better.

 

I'd check the return tee to tank region. My filter never has air in it but I get hard starts, probably same issue.

Oh and I use the genlightning pump. Hasn't failed me

 

Well, Im struggling to find a connector (the one that the guy posted on Oilburners is discontinued) also I cant find the 3/8" mpt and 3/8 barbed hose fittings at 90 degree angles lowes, home depot, and napa didnt carry them, if worse comes to worse I suppose I can just make them. Also what gauge wire should I be using?

Any thoughts on where I should get the rest of these items, And should I put red threadlocker on the fittings going into the pump and on the one that will be going into the fuel filter housing.

 

thread sealant on the threads.they say thread tape shouldn't be used,but i did and no problems.......yet lol.
just use the same gauge wire the pump wires are.it doesn't need to be heavy for anything.the draw is tiny.like 2 amps or something with maybe a 2.5-3 amp turn on spike lol.
don't worry about the plug.just use butt connectors.it's not an item you'll ever need quick disconnects for.if you really think you'll be unplugging and plugging your pump back in all the time for some reason,then just use female/male spade connectors.there's no need to over complicate or over engineer such a basic task imho.

 

Yeah, im probably over complicating it, but I just have no experience with wiring this stuff, and I've got no one holding my hand on this, well accept for you guys, but you wont be there when I install this so just trying to take all the precautions I can ahead of time to make sure I get it right.

 

once you start doing it,you'll see how easy it is.wait until your first cold start with it........your gunna be impressed.
the fear of the unknown for you right now is hardest part.you'll soon see my 2-3 difficulty rating was very accurate,if not just a tad bit high even.
when your doing it and if you think somethings hard or complicated about it,or your not having a fun time with the install.just stop and pop back on,because that means your doing something wrong.

 

Thread sealant works fine. Thread TAPE isn't a sealant it's just a thread lube to make it easier for people using interference threads.

I used the 14 gauge wire from autozone since I already had some.

Did you check mcmastercarr for hose barbs?

I cut the metal fuel line that goes to the fuel heater and used a flare tool to give it a lip. Chevy 2-bolt block off plate plus oil-sealant rtv on both sides of the gasket.

 

The RTV stuff in between the gasket and the block right? Not in between the block plate and the gasket?

 

black (oil resistant) RTV both sides nice and heavy...........that's what it took to finally give me a nice dry seal.

 

Both sides. I used a glove and coated both sides of the gasket, then follow cure time instructions and put it in. No leaks first try for me.

 

Good Stuff thank you guys.

 

I think I have finally found all the pieces to make this puzzle work believe it or not the hardest was coming up with the brass fittings. (Finally pissed off the guy behind the counter at NAPA enough for him to tell me "fine you can go in the back and look for it yourself".....2 Brass fittings and 120secs later I came out and paid for them. For some reason those guys really aren't bothered about helping customers.

Any who, I twisted them both on and they don't seem to go very deep into the pump, I know the threads are 1/8" and they start just find I mean I get a full rotation and a half before it gets really hard for me to turn them down any deeper. I'm telling you this because I am not sure what else I need for the fittings, I've heard tape is a no-no and that it works fine, and I've heard red thread locker is a no-no and that it also is nbd to use it? Can I just tighten them down and forget about them or are they going to leak on me? Lol honestly the last thing I need for trying to solve my air intrusion/cold start/faulty lift pump problems is another air intrusion/leak. (Btw I think I have mostly all of my air intrusion problems taken care of... for now)