should I have 12v @ the compressor on a '05 e450 v10,( or is it computer controled/-grounded to close the clutch?...I get that idea from faq & various posts.

 

In order for the compressor clutch to energize, you have to have one side of the coil grounded and the other side must have battery voltage.

Fords switch the battery voltage on/off, not the ground, for the clutch. The ground side is "permanent".

 

thanks for the reply,.. that is what I thought, but reading hundreds of "posts" & faq, (mostly @ other sites)..somewhere I read about the computer triggering a relay to add grd...& I was thinking about how the compressor would need to be insulated etc, etc....my orig. problem is I have not yet found if compressor is turning/pumping, the clutch/pully covers all the front of compressor,don't see any "gap" when on, or off. gauges used,but it won't "take" refrig....still checking, (slow @ 73)..190jerry

 

You can easily see if the clutch is spinning or not. With the AC off, there are three "nubs" on the outboard face of the clutch that should be stationary. When the clutch engages with the engine running, that portion of the clutch then spins in time with the pulley and the "nubs" will look like a blur.

 

(v10,2005, a/c compressor)...I am starting to wonder if the front part of the clutch is missing! what I can see & feel, it is smooth, no "nubs", no bolt in center or bolt holes, or rivet holes. it is diff. than any picture of a clutch that I can find online. (pully is there, turns with engine, I just can"t tell if the compressor is turning, I tried putting a small twig in the recess-with engine on- that did'nt really show anything.(only about 2 or 3 in. to the fan blade & shroud),. all this because guages indicate it is not "taking" refrig.(but has some pressure)=not cooling...of course this comp. is on the bottom--have to craw under & it seems to rain everytime I start to do something - tried to take picture, came out poor, to close because of fan shroud, will try to include here....J........no, don't know how to include /pic.

 

Clutch hubs have been known to fall off during engine operation.

Here's what the parts are supposed to look like:

19D786 is the hub. The pulley and bearing are inboard from the hub and are designated by the gray box.

 

that image is like all pic.'s I've found, and the outside piece is not on mine. but now I wonder how it was held on, there is no bolt hole in the center of my pully / or compressor shaft! there is a snap-ring(about 7/8" estimated), I have just come in from looking/checking, but need to search(again) for a center bolt hole. looks like I need a clutch...I was checking the static pressure, it was/ is 64#(both).temp is 89...I am amazed that the front of a clutch could come off so easy.?...& hate it being on the bottom of engine, almost like you have to jack up the engine to replace the compressor!...do you think I should replace compressor or just clutch?...I can probably do the clutch, but need someone else(with exp.) & vac.pump), to do compressor. (73/ hurts to get up & down etc.)..thanks much for the diagram/info.....J

 

That parts diagram is from Ford's parts website - anyone can access it.

Get the clutch hub, the bolt, and a pack of shims if that's all you need.

I replaced the compressor on my 01 F250 last summer. Wasn't too bad for access.

 

about ready to buy new compressor, it looks like the bolt that held the front of clutch (gone) is sheared off, its back in the recess, was looking for the bolt hole( I could'nt feel)-using a mirror, there is no hole, but the metal is darker about where hole should be. reading over @ v-10 forum, some compressors freeze/ stop engines--so,..do you suppose this one froze up, sheared bolt, lost front of clutch?...I wanted to" turn" compressor, to see if it is frozen (before buying clutch? / compressor?.)...so my next question which "brand" compressor seems to be the better choice? (are they all scroll type?-for '05 v10) & just wondering, is piston/ wobble plate/swash plate,scroll ? any one better than the other?......and it sure looks like it won't be easy to get that compressor out! ...J

 

If the bolt hole is "back in the recess" it sure sounds like the shaft has sheared off. It should only be about 1/4" or so inside the snout of the compressor. It sounds like the compressor seized and the clutch plate and part of the shaft are missing. From what I'm hearing lately, that's not uncommon with Denso scroll compressors. I've never dealt with one first hand, but it sounds like I will soon. It seems that now that they have been in service for a few years, scrolls are dropping like flies. Other auto makers are having issues with them, too.

As far as I know, the only replacement available is the same Denso scroll type compressor that you have right now. (Sorry).
A quick look at major retail parts suppliers only turns up New units for your application. That's probably a good thing, given the quality of reman compressors lately and the issues with failing scroll compressors. It wouldn't surprise me if someone came out with a "bolt in" Sanden/Seltec/FS-10 Denso based replacement some time soon. I've heard rumors, but they are just rumors at this point.
As for replacements, take your pick and it's probably safe to shop by price. New compressors are likely under license from Denso (Visteon?) so they're all pretty much the same. They're all pretty pricy, though, $3-500.

Keep in mind that, if the compressor grenaded internally causing it to sieze, the condenser will be loaded with shrapnel. It is a parallel flow design and can't be flushed reliably even with professional flushing equipment. DIY flushing would be a waste of time and money.
You will need to replace the condenser, along with the accumulator and metering device (expansion valve, orifice tube). The remaining parts of the system will need to be flushed.

I looked at the rig in your profile, very nice BTW!!.
Is the factory AC system tied into the rest of the vehicle AC system or is it just "cab air"? I hope it's only cab AC. If it's tied into the rear AC, reliable repair can get pretty ugly ($$$), real quick.

The only "good" news that I can offer is that the compressor isn't too hard to replace from underneath. As I recall on E-Vans, you have to leave a mounting bolt or two sitting in the compressor as you drop it out. Just make sure you stick the bolt(s) into the new compressor before you raise it into place. Disconnecting and reconnecting the manifold might be a bit tricky if you're doing it on the ground.
That's assuming that the upfitter hasn't routed or placed something right in the way, of course.

 

thanks for the detailed answer. some more info. about the trk,..it was a "used furniture" p-u & del. van, it has the unicell one piece fiberglas body, (I thought that would make a great "no leaks" camper. mostly in very good 80000 mi cond., runs perfect! I've removed roll-up door, insulated, & finished all inside work (except shower). employees did'nt take care of anything, (new fender needed. door repair, etc, many scrapes on body). did some glass work ,it had diff. sized tires,mixed-all over. ...but about a/c, I suppose it did seize, I'm still trying to check if the compressor will turn,(without motor on). I guess I'm hoping the compressor did not leave all its bits & pieces thru-out the system. space around compressor is crazy!! (+ its either raining, wet or almost 100 degrees out.) just curious, why can't a par. flow cond. be flushed?..(with accept'le results,other fluid goes thru ok ??)....J.... ..

 

oh, its just front a/c . (was checking stuff yesterday & found a plastic bag sucked into the heater/ac return!).....also found out why its not worth trying to clean a parallel flow cond. which asks "how do you make sure the cond. is dirty/got trash in it?", you sure don't want to waste your money.