Having come from the 6.0 world, I know that Ford's coolant left a lot to be desired. Has anyone used the John Deere Cool Gard II in their trucks? It works out to about the same price as going back with regular Ford coolant and I have easier access to it and can probably get it a little cheaper. I need to get it changed this weekend before our trip down south, just wanting opinions. And yes, I just realized that I can't spell in the title.
Thanks
Ben

 

I have not used it, nor had I even heard of it! A little research found this:

I have been having an interesting e-mail conversation with a John Deere chemical engineer. I was happy this chemical engineer had the time to chat with me through e-mail.

In regards to John Deere Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II...

•John Deere Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are NOT G-05. They are both Hybrid Organic Additive Technology (HOAT) coolants as G-05 is, but Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are not G-05. G-05 is not formulated to protect against cylinder liner cavitation erosion and pitting, and does not pass the ASTM D7583 John Deere Cylinder Liner Cavitation Erosion Test.
•John Deere Cool-Gard uses a low dose of silicate for aluminum protection. Sodium nitrite and one type of organic additive technology (OAT) is used for cast iron water pump impeller cavitation protection, and to protect the replaceable cast iron cylinder liners from hard water deposits, pitting, erosion, and cavitation.
•Cool-Gard uses sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite. It also uses 1 OAT.
•John Deere Cool-Gard II uses sodium nitrate, but no longer uses sodium nitrite. Sodium nitrite has been banned in coolant in certain countries. It also uses the same OAT that Cool-Gard uses but also uses 2 additional OATs. This tri-OAT formulation provides the same level of cavitation protection as did the original Cool-Gard formulation, but does not need the addition of Coolant Extender or SCA nearly as often. It also has been reformulated to meet the challenges of the upcoming Interim Tier 4 diesel emission reduction technology strategies as well as the future Final Tier 4 diesel emission reduction technology strategies. Both will involve cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation (cooled EGR), with the engine coolant being the heat exchange fluid in the EGR cooler. The overall bulk coolant temperature will rise as much as 10°C to 15°C when these technologies are implemented.
•Ethylene Glycol is sweet tasting. EG is also very poisonous to humans and animals. For this reason a bittering agent, to make the coolant extremely bitter to the taste, is added to the formula. This agent, called Bitrex®, is required in California and Oregon, but we add it to all packaged products on a world-wide basis.
•Distilled water (or deionized/demineralized water) is recommended instead of tap or well water. This insures no mineral deposits form.
•John Deere supplies test strips to test its coolant. If the pH tests below 7.0 (neutral), the coolant has turned acidic and needs to be drained out, the cooling system flushed and new coolant installed.

I use John Deere Cool-Gard in numerous gasoline engine cooling systems in GMs, Fords, and Chryslers. On that subject...

"And as you have noted by your own experience, John Deere Cool-Gard, and now John Deere Cool-Gard II, works great in all engines, from heavy duty diesels all the way down to gasoline engines in cars and trucks. In fact, Deere is now using Cool-Gard II as factory-fill in our water-cooled lawn and garden and Turf Care equipment."

In regards to the Asians' use a phosphates...

"What the Asians are likely concerned about is the use of Supplemental Coolant Additives, or SCA for short. These SCAs are meant to replace the additives that deplete over time and need to be replenished in order to continue to protect against corrosion and cavitation. The glycol itself does not wear out - it only becomes diluted with water or over-concentrated, and therefore the freeze point can be adjusted by the addition of either water or coolant concentrate. To determine the condition of the coolant, the coolant must be tested. This can be done in two ways - by the use of litmus strip-like test strips, or by taking a sample of the coolant and mailing it to an authorized laboratory for an in-depth chemical analysis. The Asians' concern is that the continued use of SCAs without first testing the coolant to see if SCA addition is warranted could lead to overconcentration of silicate, with in turn could lead to the formation of a gel structure in the coolant as the fluid cools after use. This silicate gel is very stable and the only way to remove it is to use a high pressure power wash to flush out the cooling system."

On the subject of 2-EHA OATS...

"Regarding DEX-COOL, you are correct in that it is an OAT - type coolant using 2-Ethyl-Hexanoic Acid (2-EHA) as the OAT in its formulation. There was much controversy about ten or so years ago regarding seal hardening and cracking caused by 2-EHA. Cummins Engine Company and Texaco Chemical, now owned by Chevron, were two that particularly had issues with each other, but reached some sort of accommodation on the issue. You may want to do some Internet searches on the matter. For our part, we do not use 2-EHA in or formulation of either the former Cool-Gard or the current Cool-Gard II. The OAT used in Cool-Gard and now in Cool-Gard II, along with the two additional OAT's in Cool-Gard II, are unique and proprietary to Deere, and are not used by anyone else. That makes Cool-Gard II a truly unique and one-of-a-kind formulation."

I am still astounded OAT coolant manufacturers continue to use 2-EHA.

"As a side note, 2-EHA is a co-product or by-product of other chemical manufacturing processes. By being a by-product, that makes it a lower valued commodity and therefore a lower cost input for those coolant producers that choose to use it. However, it does have its drawbacks, as I have noted. That is not to say that all OATs possess the same properties. We originally formulated Cool-Gard with a different OAT that did not negatively affect seals, and Cool-Gard II is formulated with that same OAT plus two more OATs that has been tested and proven to not negatively affect six (6) typical elastomer seal materials, including HNBR, NBR-1, VMQ-1, FKM-1, EPM and EPDM. This testing was performed according to the Detroit Diesel 93K217 Specification. It should be noted that some coolants formulated with 2-EHA have experienced incompatibility with silicone seal material (FKM-1)."

 

Based on that, combined with the fact the modulars seem to not have any unique coolant requirement needs or sensitivities, I would think the JD should be fine.

As always, make sure you thoroughly drain (radiator AND engine block AND heater core) and FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH to get all of the old out.
It is my belief that most coolant issues are due to not flushing properly and therefore mixing different chemistries. Draining the radiator and refilling only gets about 1/2 of the old out. You need to pull all block drain plugs out as well, and run lots of water through to get all the old out.
When changing brands or chemistries of coolant, I go to pretty extreme lengths.
- Drain radiator and pull all block plugs.
- Remove thermostat housing and thermostat
- Remove one heater hose
- Flush water through every available opening
- Seal back up
- Fill with water
- Take a drive to get up to to full temp
- drain radiator and block again.
- If ANY residual color, flush again. If perfectly clear, seal up and now fill with new coolant.

 

Thanks for the info, that was an interestign read. I planned to do the complete clean out of the old material, but hadn't thought of the block plugs.

 

Gassers don't have the cavitation problems diesels do. I run a plain-jane propylene glycol coolant (from marine suppliers) and I can dump it on the ground when I change it.

I've idled and pulled 50-foot trees through the woods crawling in 4LOW in 90+ degree heat, and never had an issue. Down to zero, no issues.

Can't complain.

Just do one thing: Change it every two years.

 

You have that backwards, the 6.0l design leaves a lot to be desired. The EGR system on the 6.0l is super hard on coolant, thus its a 6.0l problem not a coolant problem. The Motorcraft Gold/Zerex G-05 coolant is great stuff probably some of the best on the market. I put MC Gold back in my truck again and it only cost $16gal.

I basically did what in this video. It wastes a bit of gas but no screwing with block plugs, pulling the t-stat and etc. I made a flushing cap for the coolant bottle using an old cap and a brass fitting the garden hose screws to.(keeps water from spraying all over the engine.

6.0 SYSTEM FLUSH - YouTube