Well guys I'm finally back with some updates on my 86' F250. When I last left you guys I was gathering parts and trying to find time to rebuild the top of my smoldered engine. Now that school is over, I finally had some time last week to get some work done. So, here's what I got done.

- Moved all the old fittings and plugs from the old intake manifold to my new Edelbrock Performer unit.

- Got the new intake installed and torqued down.

- Replaced spark plugs.

- Installed distributor with new cap and rotor.

- Reinstalled all hoses and fittings to the intake.

- Got my new Edelbrock 1406 carb mounted, but not fully installed yet.

- Cut the fuel line and installed the fitting to get it ready for my Fuel Pressure Regulator that is yet to be installed.

- Removed the Fuel Selector Valve which will be getting replaced.

I'm sure I did other things too, but that's all I can think of right now.

Things still left on my list for this week:

1. Flush and fill the coolant system
2. Finish cutting my MSD wires to length and get them installed
3. Get the battery charged
4. Put the new Fuel Selector Valve in
5. Replace fuel filters
6. Install new FPR with filter
7. Change oil and filter


Here's some of the issues I'm worried about:

1. Timing- without a doubt this is my biggest worry. I had a particularly bright moment when I decided to pull my distributor out without making any reference points. So, when I was reinstalling it, I used the trick that Lebaron taught me and turned the crank until I saw the 6th cylinder's intake valve close and the exhaust just begin to open. He said this is getting close to TDC. Then put the distributor in and turned it about 10 degrees counter-clockwise. I'm hoping this is enough to get it running so I can time it with a timing light.

2. I'm hoping the front and rear of the intake are sealed up properly. As you can see from the pics, there's a lot of blue RTV sealing the intake, so I hope there's no issues with leaks.

I'm sure there will be more questions and problems to come, so I will keep y'all posted. Also, I want to thank everyone for helping out with my questions, I definitely would be in big trouble without this forum, so thanks.


Now off to cut some spark plug wires.

 

Judging from that manifold and the location of the thermostat, I'd say that's a 460?

For the timing, don't sweat it...there are more ways then one to skin a cat.

Make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder, take the cap off and see where your rotor is pointed. put your number one plug wire there and go around in the proper firing order and you're there.

If you don't like where the rotor is pointed, pull the distributor just enough that it clears the drive gear and point it where ever you want. As long as you put #1 plug wire there and follow the firing order, you'll be fine. I never mark where it came out, Unless I'm not going to turn the engine over and don't want to mess with the wires. But when starting from scratch, like you are, you have many options.

 

Looking good! You are going to be driving it soon. And, that is FUN!!!

 

Update...

Today I finished installing the spark plug wires as well as got the FPR mounted and installed as well. Also flushed the coolant system today which took a little longer than expected due to a missing gasket at the thermostat, but quickly got that repaired as well. Picked up the charged battery from Advance and reinstalled that as well. Tomorrow with a little luck I'll be able to turn the key.

I also had a quick question concerning the carb. Just wondering where you guys recommended connecting the red wire that comes with the carb. It says to connect it somewhere that's hot when the ignition is on. I think there's an ignition switch close to the battery that might work okay. Thoughts?? Thanks again guys and I'll be back with updates tomorrow.

 

That is looking really nice there.

 

Looking good. As far as the choke on the carb, I don't know of a circuit at the battery or solenoid that would work. So, I'll have to think about it and I'm away from my wiring diagrams at the moment. Maybe someone else has a good idea?

 

Hey guys quick question about my PCV port on the carb. The PCV valve is currently hooked up on the rear of the intake on the 4 prong tree that I took off of my old intake which is where it was hooked up originally. So, does that mean I can plug the port on the carb? Or, should I route it to the Carb since there is a port for it and then plug the port on the tree on the intake??

Also, I'm going to be using the manifold vacuum port on my 1406 since it is no longer emissions controlled. However, since my truck was on fire, I don't know where this plug routes to. I'm assuming it goes somewhere around the distributor, but I don't know for sure, so any info would be great. Thanks again guys for the help.

 

The vacuum line for the distributor goes from the advance "can" on the distributor to a manifold vacuum port on the carb. On distributor timing, you forgot part of what I said. I said when the rockers on #6 are where you describe, then you are close to TDC #1, you still have to bring it to TDC on the balancer. Then with the rotor pointed straight back, insert the distributor, it will rotate slightly until the rotor tip points toward the #1 tower on the cap.

After it is in, turn the crank back about 15-20 degrees, bring it back to 10 degrees BTDC and line the reluctor up with the pickup. It should fire right up. Firing order is 15426378 on a 460. Distributor rotation is counterclockwise and the vacuum "can" should point straight ahead when installed correctly. I have had good luck using the factory 7 volt stator source for choke heat.

 

For your PCV valve, it is normally ran at the base of the carb so that it is drawing in air/oil mist into the intake plenum to be distributed to all cylinders. The vacuum tree at the back of the manifold is commonly tied into only one of the runners, therefore all of the oil mist from the PCV would only be directed into that one cylinder, and could load it up over time.

The large port on the vacuum tree is normally used for your power brake booster.

 

Hey guys....

Just tried to start the truck for the first time since October. She turned and turned, but no cigar. I can smell gas coming from the fuel pump and I double checked that all the spark plug wires were fully connected. My next step is to check the firing order to make sure the wires are in the right place. What would be the next thing to check?? I'm sure there's many things to double check, but where would you guys start??

 

Make sure the choke, assuming it has a carb, is closing. And, check to see if you have spark by pulling the coil wire and getting it close to ground as someone cranks the engine.

 

Looks like it's coming along, but there's one thing that caught my eye.

On the regulator you installed, there's one line coming out of the front and one on the bottom. Is there a 90 degree fitting on the back or is it a plug?

Don't know what direction you have it mounted for flow, but one end is in from pump, the other is out to carb, and the bottom is return to tank?

Just something I noticed and am wondering if there's a hidden line on the back I can't see.

Check your plugs and see if they are wet, that will give you an indication if it's flooded due to a fuel problem.

 

On the regulator, the line coming out of the bottom is actually the one coming from the pump, and then the one coming out of the front is the one going to the carb. There is also another possible line out of the back that can be used for different applications, but since all I need is from the pump and to the carb, it is currently plugged.

 

I would imagine that is for a return line back to the tank?? Make sure the pump you have is ok to run "dead-headed" without a return. Some don't and some do need it to keep from overheating. That's assuming you are running an electric?

 

If his is the same as the one Bruno put on his, the other port is at regulated-pressure and can be used for dual-inlet carbs or for a pressure gauge.