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OK, so maybe it was a 360 or a 351 or something. I need to cool a 210 cu in 6 cyl turbo diesel with it. I had a rad from a maybe 88? v6 f 150 and that didn't cool it so I cruised a wrecking yard with my tape measure and this looked good. I will have to modify the supports etc, but for me from then on, any rad I put in there will be the same type I modified for. Since my truck is very modified at this point, I would rather 'butcher' the truck's nose to fit a commonly available stock rad, than modify the rad. That way if I'm in Montana and spring a bad leak, I can go to a wrecking yard or parts store and say I need a rad form a '77 f250 with a 360 or 351 or whatever that wreck had that I pulled this rad from. Looks like a common rad from what I see on line.
GB; Good to hear you got the gauges working. Did it fry the first voltmeter.
Whats your thoughts on voltmeter VS amp gauge?
Yea I go by Wally and my truck goes by the name of Teddy or Theodore.
I know what you're talking about on the easy access with that front clip off, I'm trying to get a few things finished up before putting mine back on.
OK, so maybe it was a 360 or a 351 or something. I need to cool a 210 cu in 6 cyl turbo diesel with it. I had a rad from a maybe 88? v6 f 150 and that didn't cool it so I cruised a wrecking yard with my tape measure and this looked good. I will have to modify the supports etc, but for me from then on, any rad I put in there will be the same type I modified for. Since my truck is very modified at this point, I would rather 'butcher' the truck's nose to fit a commonly available stock rad, than modify the rad. That way if I'm in Montana and spring a bad leak, I can go to a wrecking yard or parts store and say I need a rad form a '77 f250 with a 360 or 351 or whatever that wreck had that I pulled this rad from. Looks like a common rad from what I see on line.
Assuming that the truck that you pulled the radiator out is stock... you might have a radiator from a 351M/400 engine. I'd assume that they have the same radiator but I can be wrong so don't quote me.
I'm thinking thats what the parts places say. Same for 351 and 400. Like I said, I'm only cooling a 210 cu in, but I plan to tow with it and my other 6at powered truck has a history of running hot and I hate watching the temp gauge climb when pulling a hill in the summer. On this truck I want to err on the safe side. I also replaced the two, yes two 195 degree thermostats with a pair of 180s. So far the gauge goes to 180 and stays there. Yes, the first voltmeter was toast. I have heard that a voltmeter is safer under the dash because it doesn't carry the big current that an ammeter does. I let the guys at my local napa store talk me into it. OK, off to another Monday in the cabinet shop.......
Pretty much how it is..... When I finish one, I start getting itchy and start cruising craigslist for some kind of Ford truck. Then if I buy something, I sell something else I'm not using. (the gmc?) and the cycle repeats itself. I have quite a few parking spots under cover, but I'm always maxxed out. I can't stand leaving one of my babies out in the rain. It rains a lot around here, and a lot of trees, so stuff gets ugly fast. That's why I craigslist east of the mountains. The Cascade mountains catch all, ok most of the rain coming off the Pacific and it's really dry over in Eastern Washington. Most all the agriculture there (and there's lots) relies on irrigation.
I keep seeing the title of this thread and wondering when my wife will look over my shoulder and ask if the moron that needs wiring is the same as the loose nut in the cab.
I think they are related. Not by blood, but perhaps motor oil. I wouldn't be surprised to find my blood type is 10-40 w, and my blood pressure is 20 lbs at a hot idle........
I think they are related. Not by blood, but perhaps motor oil. I wouldn't be surprised to find my blood type is 10-40 w, and my blood pressure is 20 lbs at a hot idle........
You can still Hot Idle? I am just idle most of the time!