When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have heard that this sealer will seal anything if applied right. I know permatex is one of the best but has anyone here ever taken it apart? I want to use this on my oil pan and windage tray, but I want to make sure I can take it apart in the future.
I use right stuff alot actually prefer it over RTV. I wouldn't swear it to seal anything but dang close. You will ruin a valve cover if everything is good and oil free upon install and you only use right stuff. A light coating of rightstuff on gaskets works very well and caneasily be removed. Hope this helps and rember if all else is right ( clean straight surfaces unwarped tin) the gasket will do its job. Gaskets generally don't fail on their own.
I want to make sure I can take it apart in the future.
Me too! I'm pretty sure Ford didn't use the Right Stuff on the assembly line. On most gaskets I use a sealer on one side and just grease on the other. EZ on, EZ off, no leaks. But then I have only done one engine.
I love that stuff (right stuff). I've used it everywhere with just about 100% success. Great for rear main on FE, Intake's (they always leak), even sealed a small crack in a transmission case that was seeping. It's pricey but well worth it!
Thanks for all the replies. I also have had good luck with Ultra Black and the red tube High temp, especially on on the intake ends "china walls". I have read so much about the Right Stuff I thought I would try it. I like that it comes in a caulking gun tube but I'm worried about the fast set up time. I guess my main question was if anybody ever tried to take something apart that was sealed with the Right Stuff only (no gasket). I already bought the tube so maybe I will post what really happens if I'm to slow and have to take it apart.
I had to take the intake back off . Not because of sealer but a small crack around one of the rear bolt holes that I did not notice until final torque. It was probably fine but I did not want to take any chances since our engines have that unique pushrod through the intake design. So I chicken out on using the right stuff for the intake gasket but I did use it on the china walls. Beware that stuff sets up fast just like everyone says. I put a bead on the front wall first and then did the rear and put the intake on immediately. FYI, I used ultra black around the water jackets. When I removed the intake 3 days later the rear china wall had a far better, almost fused, seal than the front wall. If I ever try this again I will have a friend run a bead on one wall while I do the other, maybe my climate made it cure faster than most. I think the right stuff is only right in some situations. I recomend the tried and true ultra black, ultra grey, or high temp RTV red. By the way I left it on for three days so I could at least answer some of my concerns and let you guys know what I found.
Thanks for all the help Mike D
<table class="overvw"><tbody><tr><tr><td class="overvw-data">
</td></tr></tr></tbody></table>