Does anybody have pics of a jag ifs soft mounted to a 53-56 frame? I have seen pics of them welded to the frame, and soft mounted to 48-52 frame, but I want to soft mount it on my 53. Also what thickness of metal should I use to make the mounting brackets and boxing plates? Thanks

 

I don't have any but, a bump is always a benefit! TTT

 

A couple of members have soft mounted the Jag IFS in the 53-56. One with pictures is Paul. I do not know if he ever put his truck on the road, He is not active now on the forum. This link will take you to his album.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...4&albumid=7337

The second is Holmsey in the UK. I know that he is driving his. Here is the link to his website. The IFS install is in the 1st two pages.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13381988330933

I am sure that there are others. Those are the two that come to mind.

 

I'll just add that the way Holmsey notched the sides of his frame rails is not needed .
The jag unit will fit without doing that .
I have seen them both welded in and soft mounted and it has never been nessasary to do that . .

 

Do you have pictures of soft mounting in the post 52 trucks?

 

Thanks for the info. I like the way Paul did his, I would rather not notch the frame if I don't have to.

 

I can't say anything about mounting the Jag suspension except that I read that it will fit without any cutting the F100 frame if it is tipped in.
But I can offer information about boxing frames. There is no reason to use material any heavier than the OEM frame structure. The strength is not provided by the thickness, but by the shape developed. A box is much stronger and stiffer than a C shape. In fact the box can have holes up to 1/2 it's height and several times as long cut out of both the vertical webs without significant weakening of the structure. That is why hot rodders and racers often drill lightening holes in the vertical web of beam axles, radius rods, etc. The stock frame is made from 10 -9 ga. metal which is 1/8" thick, so 1/8" sheet would be the material of choice for boxing plates. I like to cut my boxing plates to fit inside the frame flanges. I make my patterns by tracing the outside of the vertical web side of the frame, then subtracting the frame thickness from the upper and lower edges of the pattern. That way any distortion or bending of the horizontal flanges will not be carried over to the shape of the boxing plates like might happen if the open side of the frame was traced. The flanges can then be adjusted until the boxing plate fits snugly inside the frame. A large adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, and/or hammer and dolly can be used to adjust the flanges. By making the boxing plates to fit inside I can inset them 1/8" from the edge by using 1/8" scrap steel spacers with welding magnets big enough to span the frame flanges. Set the boxing plate inside the frame, span the flanges vertically with the magnets and sandwich the spacers between the magnets and boxing plates Now you can easily tack the plates between the flanges by doing a fillet weld along the 1/8" setback. A fillet weld is the easiest weld to make, even upside down. and need a minimal to no amount of cleanup. From the top and bottom the frame will look very clean. Also the boxing plates do not need to be welded in solidly. A 2" bead every 6" would be plenty strong and allow any moisture to weep out. If you do weld solidly, I'd drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the bottom flange every couple of feet. Paint the inside of the frame and back side of the boxing plates with zinc rich weld thru primer before welding in place. You will also have to plan for and cut tool access holes to any bolts that attach anything to the frame, and weld in crush tubes for any bolts that go completely thru the frame.