I recently bought a 76 F150 and turns out it needs the cab floor board replaced. It looks like he cut the driver floor board out and then put in a full cab flor board on top of the rest and welded that in, leaving the rusted passenger side in place.

Out of curiosity, what is the rough cost to have the whole floor board replaced?

 

Lots of variables here. Are you doing it? Are you going to fab floors, or are you going to buy them? Are you cutting the floor out of a parts truck?

I do all my own fab work, so a sheet of 18 gauge is about $60. So, it would cost me $60 plus gas and wire to replace the entire floor section. If you plan on paying someone else to do it, it could cost a huge amount more.

It cost about $150 in materials to weld this floor in. The customer paid around $500 for it. This was a special case though. I mounted a '66 F100 cab to an '85 Bronco frame. That's why the custom fab on this one.

 

My initial thoughts were to buy a floorboard from LMCtruck and pay someone to put it in.

 

IMO, buy a welder. The payback is incredibly fast since bodywork is between $75 and $90 an hour. You'll learn a skill that will benefit you over a lifetime.

I made these over a weekend and recently sold one at an art show for $275... they're made from exhaust tubing, remnants from replacing the floorpans of my 65 Mustang, and an abandoned shopping cart. One is 32 inches long and the other one is 28 inches long.

 

Don't make that mistake, their stuff is pretty thin gauged, if you're gonna buy instead of fabricate spend a few extra bucks and get some floor boards with some heft to them...

Flashback F100's - USA Made Steel Made Repair Panels*On This page will be only USA Made Repair Panels,, not like others that carry those Black Tawain cheap repair panels

 

I could not agree more. Spend your money once.

 

Alan/EarthQuake,
How did that floor do without beads rolled into it? did it make pop can noises or did you have a way of preventing that?

 

where do u live? I need my passanger side floor board replaced its rusted out on my 06 f150 but i live in portsmouth ohio

 

I've never welded, just some brazing, and I'd love to learn so I can do my own bodywork - definitely prefer to buy tools and learn how to use them vs paying folks. What's a good welder to start with and what would you suggest for learning?

 

He hasn't posted here in 12 years.

 

I bought a Miller 211 MIG welder when I was going to install new floorboard halves in my '79. I think, all told, it was about $1100 for the welder, helmet and some tools. My Brother and Nephew confiscated it and welded the floorpans in for me and did some other bodywork with it also. I still haven't got it back and don't need it now

 

I have a welder, but it's a stick welder and I didn't want to use it on my floors. I can do it, but I can burn holes too.

I was not looking for "show quality", I was just looking for "well sealed, strong, do it and forget it" results when I tackled mine. I had been under my truck and had seen /knew my floors had some rust ventilation, letting road splash hit the exposed padding under my carpet, under my floor mats. I removed all my carpet and the backing, etc. Took a close look, much of the floor was still sound but there were holes. I had some steel sheet that was a little thicker, and made some measurements, got my hammers out, sabre saw, used an anvil, made me some smooth surfaced "over floors" that fit great and tight against the flat stock floor and the angled portion leading up to the firewall. I formed a lip adjacent to the hump area and the rise under the front of the seats. I used a great number of 3/16" stainless steel pop rivets to attach the "over floor" in place.

Of course I painted and undercoated every thing. I used bed liner on my top surface. I drove it like that a few short years, using only my rubber mats over it. Then I got after it again.

I used some old discarded aluminum road signs from my local highway shop discard pile and made shields for both sides under the original floors, and I added a light additional top coating of bed line spray. I cut my carpet from industrial 24"x24" squares of rubber with carpet fibers vulcanized into the rubber from "Georgia Bonded Fibers" here locally. Short of fire or sharp cutters, they are indestructible. When I got my pieces fitted, I attached them in place using 1" long or longer 1/4-20 stainless steel flat head machine screws through a stainless steel cupped furniture washer, through the carpet, through the steelsheet I had added, through the OEM floor, and through the aluminum under it all. There I put a stainless steel washer and a ny-lock nut. I did trim the screw ends if excessive.

The floors are solid which is my desired result, but if anyone lays down and crawls under for a look, I'll probably accidently spill a coffee on them.

 

You should post a pic of your floor maybe a patch panel or two would suffice.
I only have a fist size hole and , do have a cheap fluxcore mig but might just rivet on a thick gauge patch panel, since i live in a condo now and no garage for time being

 

He likely has done wore out a closet full of shoes by now.

I've done same.