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Hey guys. My wife just called me at work to say the X wouldn't start. She had been running it in the parking lot to keep the air going and it died. She tried to start it again and it wouldn't turn over. (I'm not sure from her description if the starter was turning.)
After a while she did get it to start again so I had her stop at Advance to have them check it out before going home. The guy said the battery was excellent but the alternator had an "excessive ripple" and was therefore not charging the battery as well as it should.
He quoted one from them @ $150. Any of you ever hear such a thing? Is that a good estimate for an alternator for the V10? Anything else I should check? I guess next I'll be searching for a thread on replacing one. :-/
Hey guys. My wife just called me at work to say the X wouldn't start. She had been running it in the parking lot to keep the air going and it died. She tried to start it again and it wouldn't turn over. (I'm not sure from her description if the starter was turning.)
After a while she did get it to start again so I had her stop at Advance to have them check it out before going home. The guy said the battery was excellent but the alternator had an "excessive ripple" and was therefore not charging the battery as well as it should.
He quoted one from them @ $150. Any of you ever hear such a thing? Is that a good estimate for an alternator for the V10? Anything else I should check? I guess next I'll be searching for a thread on replacing one. :-/
Ax him wut a ripple is, maybe he been drinkin excessive Ripple.
Those DC Power alternators are seriously expensive! I think it's a bit interesting that the fitment guide on their web site does not even include the V10 engine for the 2001 Excursion. They have them listed for 2002, so I am guessing it should work.
OK... I looked at the tape the machine at Advance printed out.
BATTERY TEST
== RESULTS == GOOD - RECHARGE
VOLTAGE: 12.27V
MEASURED: 952 CCA
RATED: 750 CCA
TEMPERATURE: 143°F
BATTERY IS GOOD, BUT LOW ONCHARGE.
STARTER TEST
== RESULTS == CRANKING NORMAL
VOLTAGE: 10.61V
AMPS: 0.0A
TIME: 765mS
CHARGING SYSTEM TEST
== RESULTS == EXCESSIVE RIPPLE
NO LOAD
13.27V
--.--A
LOADED
13.07V
--.--A
RIPPLE
282mV
CHARGING SYSTEM PROBLEM
CHECK BELTS, CONNECTIONS AND GROUNDS
ALTERNATOR SERVICE RECOMMENDED IF CONNECTIONS ARE OK
Ripple means a diode has or is failing and you are getting some modification of DC current to a device that expects to see only DC current. Module boards all have a fixed tolerance for AC current or something similar that results when an alternator, or in the case of RVS, a power converter or generator is failing.
Module boards are extremely fussy as to how much ripple they will tolerate before doing crazy things or nothing at all. To test for it, if you have a quality meter, test the batteries for DC voltage, just as you normal would, then switch your meter to the AC setting and see what you get. I don't know the tolerance for Fords, but it does exist and can be a real problem. I run into it often working with RVs.
I've replaced alternators because they had excessive ripple. It has fixed several problems that you would never think would be caused by an alternator. If you just used a voltmeter you would think the alternator is charging just fine, but it really isn't.
I've replaced alternators because they had excessive ripple. It has fixed several problems that you would never think would be caused by an alternator. If you just used a voltmeter you would think the alternator is charging just fine, but it really isn't.
I have also done this. AC is bad where A/C is good. LOL... Here is a simple procedure for testing for AC or diode testing: Alternating Current (AC) Ripple Test
[QUOTE=TrdLtly;11881988]I have also done this. AC is bad where A/C is good. LOL... Here is a sim
I also do it this way, but the ripple is often not as distinct as with a true AC sine wave and according to what I have read, many meters are not sensitive enough to pick it up. I always figure anything on my meter over .25 is automatic trouble, but wonder if I am getting a true reading.
I have also found manufacturers often rate their boards as tolerating more ripple than they actually can handle and I wonder how many times components get replaced for erratic operation that is really the fault of the power supply.
With a Snap-On oscilloscope. The ripple on a bad alternator is very apparant.
My guess since that is the suggested way everywhere I had read. Without an oscilloscope I suspect many diode failures would be missed until they became severe since the typical wave form is not what the AC setting on a multimeter looks for.
Next best is having the alternator tested someplace like Advance.
Osilliscope will show all waveforms, but i doubt if many people have them. High end digital multimeters might work, i know i can read % distortion with mine.
Osilliscope will show all waveforms, but i doubt if many people have them. High end digital multimeters might work, i know i can read % distortion with mine.
Mine meter will pick up some. I just wonder how much given the wave form is so far from a typical AC sine wave.