HI there!

I just signed up to this forum hoping to find some help with my son's 97 2WD Ranger with 2.3L, 5 speed, no a/c, basic XLT standard cab.

I was using his truck because my 93 Ranger was getting a new starter on it. I drove to work with no problems, then after work, it started just fine and drove a few hundred feet to a stop sign where it promptly died. I was able to start it again with some effort and drove to the next stop sign maybe a quarter mile away. Truck died again, but this time it would not start. Towed it home about seven miles and its in the driveway now. The previous owner had new Motorcraft platinum plugs and wires installed, new fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned, all about 11,000 miles ago. My son has had it for about 6,000 of those miles.

It felt like it ran out of gas, but the gauge showed about 1/4 tank, and I put about 3 gallons more from a gas can into the tank with no change in being able to start it.

Here's what I've checked so far according to my Haynes manual:

Turned key and listened for fuel pump and it seems to go on just fine.
Checked fuses and they are fine.
Swapped around relays in distribution box with no change
Checked resistance at coil pack and it was about 1.7.
Checked resistance at one injector and it was about 1.7.
Checked inertia switch and it did not need a re-set.

I don't have the ability to check fuel pressure.

I'm not much of a mechanic, but I can follow directions! Any suggestions would be very helpful!

Thank you!!!

Clint

 

Welcome to FTE. Good trouble shooting start.

The ignition coil primary resistance isn't specified by Ford, but should be less than 5 ohms & you said yours measured 1.7 & I assume that was ohms. The secondary winding would typically measure between 10-15K ohms & you didn't post a number for it..

The fuel injectors typically measure between 12-16 ohms, so the 1.7 number you measured on one, is a low number.

With a stethoscope, or something to your ear & touching the injector, like a long screwdriver, broom handle, piece of tubing, to act as a stethoscope, can you hear the fuel injectors "click", when the starter cranks the engine???? If not, do you have 12 volts B+ to the injectors electrical connector at KOEO????

Pull the vacuum line off the Fuel Pressure Regulator & check to see if its wet inside with fuel, if so replace the FPR.

Edit: Do you have a lit CEL???? If so, scan the computer for trouble codes & post all code "numbers", as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

More trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Hi Pawpaw,

Thanks for the feedback. I rechecked some things and did your suggestions and here's what I have:

Primary resistance on coils is 0.8 ohms, secondary is 13,600 ohms.
#1 Fuel injector resistance is 15.2 ohms.
Could not here "click" in fuel injector #1, but its getting 11.84 volts KOEO.
No fuel in vacuum line at FPR
No CEL except during key on at start, not sure if it would stay on if running. I don't have a code reader either!

The battery is starting to get a little low with all the cranking and no starting, but I think it will be okay for awhile. I do have a 93 Ranger I could swap out with if needed.

Please let me know where to go from here and thanks so much for the help!

Clint

 

OK, good feedback, sounds like the coil & FPR are ok, but not hearing the fuel injectors click when the engine is cranked, suggests the injectors aren't being ground switched by the computer so they'll squirt, for some reason.

Maybe a faulty cam sensor, or computer driver for the injectors

Can you come by an OBD-2 code reader to scan for trouble codes, as they could likely shed some light on your trouble shoot. Most autoparts stores will do it at no cost, but you have to take the vehicle by. Maybe if your on good terms with the manager, he'd let you rent their scan tool/code reader out for a refundable deposit on their "Loan-A-Tool" program.

If you can't do that, be sure to charge the battery, because the voltage you have to the injectors suggests its low on charge & that can mess with a no start problem & trouble shoot.

Once the battery SOC is back to full, you could try back probing the Cam sensor at the computers firewall electrical connector while cranking the engine, to see if its putting out anything & its making it from the sensor to the computer. If its outputting a low voltage AC/square wave signal to the computer, suspect a computer problem.

If you have, or can come by an inductive type timing light, you could quickly & safely test for spark.

If you can't do that, you could try spraying some starter fluid into the intake at the throttle body, crank the engine & see if it tries to start, if it fires, you have spark.

More trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Hi Pawpaw,

I already tried the starter fluid with no luck. I will try tomorrow and see if I can get a code reader and a timing light. Thanks again for your help!

Clint

 

OK, if you've tried the starter fluid without joy, then put no spark on your suspect list too. The crank sensor sends a signal to the computer that it uses to time spark, but its not likely that a crank & cam sensor would go out at the same time, so right now without more clues, its kinda sounding like a computer problem, SO, make sure the battery is Fully charged & the battery cable connections on Both ends are Clean, Bright, & Tight, no corrosion, no broken wire strands, all of which could cause a voltage drop that the computer wouldn't like.

So after charging the battery, checking the + & - cable connections to the body, engine & under hood power distributon box & at the starter, after Fully charging the battery, turn on some heavy electrical loads, like headlights on high beam, blower motor on high speed, cigar lighter on, to do an under load voltage drop test across the battery posts, then across the battery post cable clamps, then at the under hood power distributon box B+ input feed point connection, then move the meters B- probe to the engine & body & do it, all to make sure all B+ & B- connections are good & full Battery voltage is reaching the computer & its sensors & the engine & body grounds are good.

If your above voltage drop tests are ok, then absent any trouble codes, move the computer firewall electrical connection, or its body ground points to the top of your suspect list & if they check out ok, put the computer on your suspect list. So if you get to the point of suspecting the computer, if you have a friend with a like vehicle, maybe he would let you try a computer swap before buying a replacement, or maybe a salvage yard would let you try a swap.

Keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

Did you remove timing belt cover to see if the belt is intact?

 

03 Maz,

I loosened the belt cover and looked in and the belt looks worn, but intact. I did however find what looked like a belt "tooth" that had come off. I don't know if it's from this belt, or from a previous one. It looks like a whole lot of work to R/R the belt, but do you think that it might be worthwhile?

Thanks for your help!
Clint

 

Hi Pawpaw,

I checked the voltage and at rest the battery was at 12.1, with the loads you suggested it dropped to 11.58 - 11.6 volts. I checked across the posts, terminals, and grounds as you suggested with these results.

Right now, I'm looking at the timing belt from another suggestion.

Thanks,
Clint

 

It has probably skipped a tooth or two and is now the timing is off and probably at least a contributing factor or the cause of your problems. Here is a link on how to replace belt if you want to attempt. Other on here can chime in on tips to do it.etc. Sorry haven't done it so can't help you there, but know others here have.

| Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical | Timing Belt And Cover | AutoZone.com

 

The battery is Way down on SOC, indicating about a 40% to 20% under load number, so recharge it completely.

The timing belt inspection was a good idea & yes it might have jumped timing if belt teeth are missing. Can't remember if this is an interference engine or not. If it is & its running when the timing belt breaks, the piston crowns will contact the valves, a very expensive happening, so inspect the timing belt carefully.
If its time for replacement, do it & while in there also plan to replace the timing belt idler pully & water pump. so you don't have to open that can of worms later for that!!!!

Keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

YIKES!!!

When turning the crankshaft to TDC, I saw that the camshaft is not rotating at all! Looks like the belt has broken! Is the engine shot now too, or can I replace the belt and get it going again?

Thanks,
Clint

 

Don't think that's an interference engine ( I will verify) so replace belt, line up camshafts as per instructions and should be all good.

 

Looks like your in the clear, as this Gates interference engine list doesn't include the 97 4banger!!!! Timing Belts: Is Your Engine an Interference Engine?

 

Paw Paw you are quicker than I am. I was just getting ready to post the same info.