Brake lights staying on
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 42
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From: HOUSTON TEXAS
Brake lights staying on
I have a 69' F100 and I am having an issue with the brake lights staying on. I had a blown fuse so I replaced it and now when I turn the truck off the brake lights stay on. I have to pump the brake in order for the lights to go off. Does anybody know why it would do this. They work fine and dandy except for we I turn off the truck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,275
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Do they go off if you pull the brake petal up with your toe, if they do, you may have to adjust the stop light switch closer to the petal. If thats not the problem you may have wires bare and shorting under the truck along the frame.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
The brake light switch screws into the bracket on the pedal. If it comes loose, it will then not push far enough to open the contact and shut the lights off. Take a look and you'll see what I mean. It's a grey plastic push button with two wires.
Mine was like that originally. Someone previous had put a small hose clamp on it to hold it steady(threads are stripped on switch). 25 yrs and still going strong.
Smoke, either your switch is stuck or unplugged? How's your turnsignals? Ok, then it won't be a turnsignal switch issue.
Mine was like that originally. Someone previous had put a small hose clamp on it to hold it steady(threads are stripped on switch). 25 yrs and still going strong.
Smoke, either your switch is stuck or unplugged? How's your turnsignals? Ok, then it won't be a turnsignal switch issue.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: HOUSTON TEXAS
There is a swith on the brake pedal and it was loose. I adjusted the switch and now they turn off. Does anyone know where the reverse swith is? I noticed I don't have reverse lights.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
Probably right on top of the transmission If it's a 4 speed, part of the neutral safety switch if it's an automatic (under the dash on top of the column), not sure with a 3 on the tree but I think it;s under the hood on a little bracket right by the shift linkage.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Valdosta,Ga
Turn signals ok!!!
The brake light switch screws into the bracket on the pedal. If it comes loose, it will then not push far enough to open the contact and shut the lights off. Take a look and you'll see what I mean. It's a grey plastic push button with two wires.
Mine was like that originally. Someone previous had put a small hose clamp on it to hold it steady(threads are stripped on switch). 25 yrs and still going strong.
Smoke, either your switch is stuck or unplugged? How's your turnsignals? Ok, then it won't be a turnsignal switch issue.
Mine was like that originally. Someone previous had put a small hose clamp on it to hold it steady(threads are stripped on switch). 25 yrs and still going strong.
Smoke, either your switch is stuck or unplugged? How's your turnsignals? Ok, then it won't be a turnsignal switch issue.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The 4 speed switch location varies on the shift tower, as it depends on whether the 4 speed is a Warner T-18 or a New Process 435.
Note: 1967's use a different stop lamp switch and brake pedal mounting setup than 1968/72's.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2012
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I'm having this same issue right now, when i got the truck about a week ago they told me they stay on and they keep a metal bar in the car to push against the firewall and lift the brake pedal up. I have yet to even look at it because im cleaning out the garage first but thats some good info about the switch, can I tighten the hinge the brake is on to lift it higher? Or does it just kinda sag like that usually?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 182
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From: Valdosta,Ga
I replaced all the fuses and did a OPS check, all are operational. I just replaced brake switch after checking if there's power, one side of the connector is hot and the other isn't, this should be the norm. Went ahead and connected the switch and there's still no brake lights. The only thing is I replaced the steering collar because the shifter handle retaining pin section was wallowed out, which created allot of play and fixed the horn. Could there be an disconnection from making this repair? What's the answer guys?
New User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 12
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From: Cibolo, TX
fixed it with a rubber bumper
The brake light switch screws into the bracket on the pedal. If it comes loose, it will then not push far enough to open the contact and shut the lights off. Take a look and you'll see what I mean. It's a grey plastic push button with two wires.
Mine was like that originally. Someone previous had put a small hose clamp on it to hold it steady(threads are stripped on switch). 25 yrs and still going strong.
Smoke, either your switch is stuck or unplugged? How's your turnsignals? Ok, then it won't be a turnsignal switch issue.
Mine was like that originally. Someone previous had put a small hose clamp on it to hold it steady(threads are stripped on switch). 25 yrs and still going strong.
Smoke, either your switch is stuck or unplugged? How's your turnsignals? Ok, then it won't be a turnsignal switch issue.
My brake wasn't making enough contact with the switch, so I just added a small rubber bumper, the types you find on the bottoms of laptops. Worked perfect!
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 891
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From: Mayfield, KY
Mine stayed on but it was because the clutch pedal was being lazy and not coming up all the way. Had to adjust clutch and it fixed it for awhile. When I did new clutch it fixed that lazy pedal (so far)