Does this sound like a normal price to put in a new compressor and orifice tube? Seemed like I had this done in another vehicle and it cost somewhere around $600. Also, why is refrigerant that shops use seem priced higher than what you can get at the auto parts stores?

Any thoughts?


These are numbers I put together
Remanufacured Compressor: $169.99
Orifice Tube: $32.99
Oil & Refrigerant: ??
Labor: one million dollars

 

That's about right.

Of course the refrigerant costs more at a shop than at an auto parts store. Should the shop make some money? Or should they sell everything to you for what they pay for it? Maybe they shouldn't charge for labor, either.

 

Hopefully the shop/labor comes with knowelge/tools you don't have, yet. The refrigerant is regulated by our government, to that add's to the cost. I know a/c is tough to be without, in any car/truck.

 

Vacuum pump is about the only tool that I don't have. I've been reading up and to save money people are replacing the condenssor, accumilator, and orifice tube. Then they take it into the shop and have them vacumm and fill the system.

I've seen a lot of threads that make it look like this system uses Vudu. Making sure you have a vacuum and filling the refrigerant/oil look like the only complicated steps.

Thoughts?

 

I concur. However...that damn machine that does both those things costs a bundle!

Why don't you replace both those parts yourself and then take it to the AC guy for the purge and refill?

I'm getting ready to do the evaporator, compressor, orifice tube and accumulator on one of my trucks and will just take it in to my AC guy for the machine.



BTW, you should change your accumulator, too.

Check partsgeek.com and see what their costs are. My orifice tube was $2.

 

I was looking at some fancy orifice tube that is supposed to lower the temp by 12 degrees.

 

Hmm, curious where would one find said device?

Thx

 

Autozone: Santech/A/C Orifice Tube

 

Since you have already blown the refrigerant (correct?), you only need to draw the system down with a vacuum pump to remove 99.99% of the water from the system.

You can make a vacuum pump from an old refrigerator compressor. I still have one I used for R12 systems with good success over the years. Cost me maybe $20 to make it 15 years ago. I soldered a Schraeder type valve on to the 1/4" copper tubes entering the compressor. You will still need a set of refrigeration gauges with hoses to connect your cans to the system--and to see the vacuum level prior to charging.

Here is a picture of my very rough but effective vacuum pump.

 

I did the same thing with a refrigerator compressor. It still works after 20 years.

 

My A/C stopped working effectively. I found a hole in my condenser, identified by where it had blown oil all over my front grill, easily wiped off. I bought a brand new replacement condenser & receiver dryer (receiver dryer should be replaced at same time as condenser) cheaply online & took it to the dealer to get those 2 parts installed & the system recharged. The dealer asked if I wanted a more thorough diagnosis done. I said nope, just replace those 2 parts, and charge the system, and we'll take it from there if there is still a problem. Worked fine, and I got it fixed fairly cheaply.

Granted, many dealers won't install customer supplied parts, or if they do they won't warranty their work, which is fair enough. I was willing to take that risk & it paid off. Even if there had been other problems that still needed to be fixed, I still would have saved quite a bit of money on the parts for the condenser & receiver dryer.

I am really happy with the Ford dealer that is 2nd closest to where I live (the one closest to where I live sucks), they have great customer service (even though I've never bought a car there), they are always pleasant & helpful, and they seem honest & their prices are reasonable. Plus they are willing to work with me on some things to keep costs down, like the A/C system fix, described above. They know that I am willing & sometimes able to do some of the simpler stuff myself, and that they get all of the overflow work for stuff that is too time consuming or complex to be performed by me or my local general garage (my local general garage is quite a bit closer, and therefore more convenient, and I am also on really good terms with the mechanics & owner, but my local general garage isn't that familiar with heavy duty diesel trucks, so I just use them for more common generic stuff, and the diesel truck mechanics at the Ford dealer for the more complex stuff). Since I've had great experience with the Ford dealer who is 2nd closest to me (but not the Ford dealer that is closest), I happily recommend them to others in the area if asked for an opinion; and if I ever bought a new Ford, I would happily give them my business as well.

 

Well, I priced out all the parts and reserved them at NAPA. About an hour before I was to go and get the parts I crawled under the EX to look at the compressor location and changed my mind about doing the job. It looked like you have to pull several hoses out of the way and maybe some other stuff. I was hoping for less work and just decided to spend my time doing other need things.

I did a lot of homework and feel I could have done the job. Maybe next time.

Thanks for everyones input.

 

I look at an expensive repair like that as less than 2 months of a new truck payment. So if you keep the truck for two more months you haven't lost anything. JMHO. Good luck, John

 

Thank You