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After a nice cleaning of the throtle body and the IAC, the truck still won't shift in Reverse or Drive without completely stalling. Tranny fluid is full, throttle body and IAC or clean as a whistle and still having the same problem.
Question, is there something on the truck that will adjust the rpm's (idle) so that when I do g from Park to Reverse, the truck won't stall out? Any help would be appreciated!
Question, is there something on the truck that will adjust the rpm's (idle) so that when I do g from Park to Reverse, the truck won't stall out? Any help would be appreciated!
That would be the IAC valve you just cleaned... One way to test it is with the truck idling in park, unplug the connector on the iac. If the truck starts to stumble then it's working
That would be the IAC valve you just cleaned... One way to test it is with the truck idling in park, unplug the connector on the iac. If the truck starts to stumble then it's working
I tried that already and the truck stumbles when the IAC isn't plugged in. Is there an adjustment I can make to make the RPM's higher? Reason I ask is if I give the truck some gas while in Park so that the RPMs are at 1,000 + RPM, the truck will shift into Reverse. If I don't have my foot on the gas and the RPM's are at 600, it stalls out every time I switch from Park to Reverse. Scratching head!!!
After a nice cleaning of the throtle body and the IAC, the truck still won't shift in Reverse or Drive without completely stalling. Tranny fluid is full, throttle body and IAC or clean as a whistle and still having the same problem.
Question, is there something on the truck that will adjust the rpm's (idle) so that when I do g from Park to Reverse, the truck won't stall out? Any help would be appreciated!
Someone more familiar with transmissions could probably add some details here but I remember talking with someone about shifting in the E40D. I remember them saying that you should be able to put the transmission in reverse and 1st gear with the shifter even if the transmission was (somehow) not getting signals from the computer. Meaning, if the transmission had no input, you should still be able to get to a couple of gears. My thought is that if you can't get to reverse then there may be something wrong with the transmission itself.
The "Limp Mode" of the E4od is 2nd gear and reverse. You can try pulling the connector to the tranny's solenoid pack. That will put it into limp mode for you to check.
Adjusting the curb idle is a bandaid fix for the real problem. I done that years ago and caused more drive problems than finaly finding the real issue.
Check your vacuum lines..... all of them, especially the plastic ones. Someone else just had the same issue recently and it wound up being the ignition module and some other things they did I can't recall. Not sure I agree with the IgnMod but I didn't work on it.
Anyone know "what makes my 1987 Ford F150 5.0L, stall after I push the A/C button, but if i rev the engine with the button in i get Cold Air flow through the vents? Is it a Bad compressor or electrical problem most like? Thanks for any help? Troy
Was there ever a resolution to this problem? I have an 89 bronco (5.0 302) that I am having the exact same issue with. I've cleaned the throttle body and replaced the vacuum lines which improved it (was stalling regardless of if i revved up)
My 93 F250 had this exact problem. I cleaned the IAC, throttle body, replaced the coil pack, checked the tranny fluid etc. For me it turned out to be the stock alternator was not keeping the system charged properly and would stall when in reverse or drive unless I blipped the gas to keep the rpm's up which in turn made the charging system work a little harder to keep the volts up. I bought/installed a 3G alternator, problem solved.
Wanted to see if the original poster came up with a solution
I have a 1990 f250 5.8 with the same issue. No codes except for Code 12 (high idle) in park and that is probably caused from running rich (exhaust leak)
When I throw it into reverse or drive from a dead stop, the idle drops very very low, and occasionally stalls. Hot or cold this will happen- but when it stalls, it most often happens when the engine is still warming up. I don't have an rpm gauge so I can't tell you exact numbers!
A low-numbered code such as 12 is a fairly serious error, and a 12 is not just a "high idle" message... it (the computer) is saying it cannot control the idle speed correctly. In my experience, the ISC/IAC motor has been shot.
But you need to diagnose and fix that before diagnosing anything else involving behavior at idle speeds, doing anything else is just pissing into the wind.