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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Found some soot!!??

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Old May 21, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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Found some soot!!??

What's the easiest/ best way to fix this??
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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The best way to fix that is to go with billowed up pipes!
There is the conventional route:
Riffraff Diesel: International Bellowed Up-pipe Kit 94-Early 99
And the less conventional, much cheaper "built not bought" route:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-up-pipes.html
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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When I had my dmf changed a year ago I also had new pipes and seals installed at a cost of around $200. There was now way I could justify the cost of bellowed pipes. I will see how long they last. I would strongly advise the DIY bellowed pipes especially if you know someone that has welding skills. The link and write up that Bill did is excellent.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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I was thinking there was some kind of gasket or something in there that I could replace. I am currently putting on a quick spool housing, t-500 hpop, intercooler and ccv mod. Can the uppipes be replaced without pullin the motor. All my work is done in the street. My neighbors love me. Ha ha ha
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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I just went ahead and ordered the donut gaskets part number f4tz6k854c. I don't have soot anywhere else and these new gaskets were only $25 for 2 of them.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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It's usually not the gasket leaking, it's the pipes.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:54 PM
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This is from Ryan Bean that I got in a email, it might help:

If you have a Car-Quest car part place close to you they sell a Chevy 350 donut gasket that works real well also. The Part# is F-17250, CarQuest is the only place I have found that sells them because they are Victor Rienz instead of Felpro's. the Felpro's are too hard and will not compress enough. If you do go this route they will fit pretty loose over the pipe, grease them up really well and tighten down the marmon clamps like crazy till it seats the gasket all the way around. I have had real good success doing those like that.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
This is from Ryan Bean that I got in a email, it might help:

If you have a Car-Quest car part place close to you they sell a Chevy 350 donut gasket that works real well also. The Part# is F-17250, CarQuest is the only place I have found that sells them because they are Victor Rienz instead of Felpro's. the Felpro's are too hard and will not compress enough. If you do go this route they will fit pretty loose over the pipe, grease them up really well and tighten down the marmon clamps like crazy till it seats the gasket all the way around. I have had real good success doing those like that.
I read that but was a little unsure???? The y part at the top is loose and has a little play in it. I'm assuming it shouldn't be like that? I would hate to put new gaskets on and still have leaks. How would I know if I have a good seal, no play in the y?
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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Yeah, more of less the pipe shouldn't move when the flanges are tightened down. The Chevy 350 gaskets are supposed to make a tighter seal and might help to compensate for pipes that are worn. The pipes actually wear where they slip in and out of the collector. The heating and cooling of the pipes makes them wear on the sides where they touch the gasket and or the collector. Putting those new donut gaskets in there may help you for a while but the only permanent solution is bellowed up pipes.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 07:33 AM
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Yeah Check!! I just can't do the $$ bellowed uppipes right now so I will pick up those Chevy 350 donuts and ride them out. I am goin to spray them bolts down for the next couple days to make it a little easier to bust them loose. Finger crossed I don't break anything while trying to break them bolts loose. My manly strength tends to get out of hand sometimes
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Lol, yeah....right! That's what it is...

Spray them down every day with penetrating lube before you start the truck. The heat/cool cycle will allow the oil to penetrate over time. And if you have the time and are feeling froggy, get yourself some Aero Kroil. It is made by Kano and is the best penetrating lubricant available IMO. It seems that HVAC supply houses are about the best place to find it. It's hard to find locally but it can be had online. Not cheap but it works.
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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I have been soaking them with pb blaster for the last couple days. Can't really run any heat and cool cycles since she is all tore apart but I sure hope this does the trick. Btw the t-500 should be at not door today or tomorrow. Terminator engineering is only 1.5 hrs north of me in modesto ca. Sent my core off Monday and should have the new one tomorrow. That's a pretty quick turnaround.
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 05:15 PM
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What the heck size are them bolts. I did a 10mm and it slipped. Tried a 3/8 too small. What is it a 13/32???
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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It's a 10mm

Did you use a 6 or 12 point? Use a 6 point since the 12 is only gonna grab the Corners
 
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Old May 27, 2012 | 06:22 PM
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I thought the socket was a 6. The opened end was a 12. I will go and double check!! Thanks. How in the world am I supposed to get to the lower bolts on these dang things. I read about some stubby sockets or something?? What about trying to take them off at thhe manifolds is that even a bigger PITA or what??!! Well I have had enough for today I will give it hell tomorrow!!! Muahahahaha!!!
 
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