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help i hooked battery cables up backwards on 99 ford explorer

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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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help i hooked battery cables up backwards on 99 ford explorer

hello i hooked battery cables up backward i never started the car the alarm sounded when i did it i stopped but damage was done it drove for about 30 minutes then i was on the freeway and it died the lights faded the odometer didnt work, the RADIO fuse blew i replaced a few fuses i replaced the alternator the car starts up when i jump it then it goes dead soon after CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? the battery light is on in the car
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Did you replace the voltage regulator? You said you replaced the alternator.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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no i didnt is that important, if i didnt could that be making good alternators go bad? i dont know much about cars but i took the old alternator out and had it tested it failed i bought a new one and put it in last night and as i was sayin in the post the same thing happenned it started up ran for 2 minutes and totally died? the battery light is still on i had the battery tested i thnk they said it had voltage but no power cause we just kept using it to get thing started it was a brand new alternator we put in we then jumped it and it ran for 45 seconds and died battery light on the whole time??
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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Can you have the regulator tested? My guess is it is bad. And you will be lucky if that is all that is fried.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 03:59 PM
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u talking about the voltage regulator? after this incident happenned i was able to drive on the freeway and sidestreets for about an hour then i parked it for 3 hours then drove on the freeway for about 20 minutes thats when it died as i was driving on the freeway does that give any clues to what could be wrong as it worked for atleast an hour of drive time also it starts up when i jump it but then dies real dead after ??
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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IIRC the regulator is integral to the alternator on this model. so if he replaced the alternator as a unit, it would have come with a new regulator. If it did not come with a new regulator, you would have had to install your old one on the new alternator.

in which case you would know for sure that you did not replace it. if you are unsure, you probably did because it came as part of the replacement alternator.

It sounds to me like your alternator is stuck "on" thus draining your battery.

i'm not exactly sure what controls the voltage regulator, but it may be controled by the PCM, in which case you may have fried your computer when you reversed the battery cables.

i'll dig out my book later tonight if i get the time (and can find it) .... that might give us a better clue as to what is going on ....

till you can get it fixed, your best bet is to unhook the battery when you shut it off.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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You blew a "fusible link" somewhere in the charging system and probably more.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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hmmmm i got a new alternator and put it in last night ,,,,im not sure if the thing u speak of is in the alternator or not,,,,,,,,,,,im not sure what to do,,,,,,,,,,,still,,,,,,,,,,,,,wish i could get this thing going with the battery light off,,,,any other ideas or pointing me further in the right direction would be greatly appreciated,,,
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Sounds like the others have said. You have more problems than the Alt. This is What, Three that has went bad right after putting them on?. Quit throwing parts at it and find what the rest of the problems are. Blown fusible links, Computer module damaged? Prolly more wiring burnt off. With the money spent on Alts you could take it to a shop that has test equipment. Do you know how to use a volt/ohm meter? If not than having you get one to test the circuits yourself wont work either. You are lucky that it even runs. I have always seen it smoke the computer when this is done and most around here can't afford to buy all the parts to get it running again.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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Fords almost always have a protection diode in the fuse box for the PCM. The PCM is probably just fine.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:29 AM
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I looked through the wiring diagrams and 3 items jumped out at me as possible problem areas to look at.

looks like fuse #6 -15A-provides a direct connection between the battery and the voltage regulator

looks like fuse #15 -7.5A- provides a direction connection between the VR and the charge warning indicator.

looks like there are two Grey -12Ga- fuseable links (hooked in parallel) that feed the VR ... these may be in the wiring loom that goes up to the alternator, the book does not say, but that would be my guess

there is a #13 -30A- fuseable link listed as "hot at all times"
there is a #4 -20A- fueseable link listed as "hot at all times"
These may be located in the fuse box under the hood, again the book does not say, but that's my guess. They may also be immediately in front of the fuse box under the hood, so check there as well.

there is a Maxi-Fuse #12 -20A- listed as "hot at all times"
this one powers the fuel pump relay, so i suspect it is fine, but i'd check it anyway. I think this one will be under the hood as well.

That's where i would start. look in the manual to find the fuse locations. if you dont have a manual you should be able to download one from ford.com under the support section.

find all of that and check it out ... beyond that, you're probably looking at a trip to the mechanic.

hope that helps ....
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:44 AM
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Good work Mike. Good info. Ya get a rep for that Bud.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 06:26 AM
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just tryin' to raise the bar for "late night posting"
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 04:49 AM
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Is the check engine light on? Fusible link somewhere is blown, maybe two. Also, I'd replace both battery cables with a thicker 2/0 guage. When crossing cables as was done here, sometimes it fries the copper inside the cables, making a weak to no electrical connection(s) for the system.
Lastly, excuse me for being a bit blunt, but how in the world, does this happen? Battery is clearly marked + and - terminals. Even CHEAP CHEAP CHEEEEEEAP "Dollar Store" jumper cables are clearly marked red (POS.) Black (NEG.)

Then when the actual jump start connections begin, who connects the POS to Pos, Neg To Engine block / solid ground on the dead battery, without being 100% certain what one is doing??

Good Luck. I don't wish your situation on anyone.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed
Is the check engine light on? Fusible link somewhere is blown, maybe two. Also, I'd replace both battery cables with a thicker 2/0 guage. When crossing cables as was done here, sometimes it fries the copper inside the cables, making a weak to no electrical connection(s) for the system.
Lastly, excuse me for being a bit blunt, but how in the world, does this happen? Battery is clearly marked + and - terminals. Even CHEAP CHEAP CHEEEEEEAP "Dollar Store" jumper cables are clearly marked red (POS.) Black (NEG.)

Then when the actual jump start connections begin, who connects the POS to Pos, Neg To Engine block / solid ground on the dead battery, without being 100% certain what one is doing??

Good Luck. I don't wish your situation on anyone.
even i've screwed up a jump start..... not proud of it, but it did happen.

reverse battery cables? no ... backwards jumpercables ... unfortunatly, yes. no harm came of it and i realized it right away from the HUGE spark and the running vehicle boggin down ....

not trying to flame you or bash you in anyway, i'm just saying it can happen ..... i just wouldn't be too harsh, that's all.
 
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