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1980 302 Needs more power.

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Old May 19, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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1980 302 Needs more power.

Ok, well this is my first thread, and I will admit I don't have a truck, at all. BUT, this site seems to be a wealth of information for ford small blocks. On to the situation.

This 302 is in my 82 rustang, it runs really well, and already has an edelbrock performer 289 intake manifold and a holley avenger 570cfm 4 barrel carb. I am looking for more power, on a low budget. I paid 650 for the car, and want to keep the investment low, as this is just a toy to take to burnout contets and the street drags at the local track. I have heard the heads on this year 302 are horrible, will pretty much any 302 head work while retaining the stock bottom end?

I am also looking into a cam and some roller rockers, and have a set of long tube headers ordered.
I also plan to remove the power steering, and convert to an electric fan to free up a little bit as well...

Please keep in mind this is super low budget lol, I just want to see what I can make the raunchy rotten rustang do on a very small investment.
 

Last edited by Midwest82; May 19, 2012 at 10:30 PM. Reason: justcuz
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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Yes the stock heads on that motor were terrible so swap on anything made after 1987 and you'll be ahead of the game. That means 5.0/5.8 truck heads(E7TE) which were also found on all Mustangs after 1987, F1ZE, F3ZE, F4ZE GT40 heads from a '96-97.5 Explorer/Mountaineer, '93-95Cobra Mustang, or Gen1 Lightning, or anything from the aftermarket. Cast iron or aluminum doesn't matter they're all better than the stock heads just don't buy anything with big valves make sure they're 1.85" -1.9" max or low rpm power will suffer, and don't buy stock heads from any car other than a Mustang because many of them had E6SE heads right into the '90 and those are the most restrictive head ever made for this enigne. These 4 letter casting numbers are found on the underside of one of the center intake ports so they're not visible until the head is off, but the heads can still be identified quickly on the motor by a capital letter cast into one of the top/outer corners just below the valve cover(see pics below). E7TE heads will have a "T", E6SE('86) heads have the letter "S", E5TE('85) heads have an "R", and GT40 heads will have the letters "GT". The '97-2000 Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 has the newer GT40p head which actually perform better than GT40s but the spark plugs are nearly perpendicular to the head which makes header fitment difficult so you may want to avoid these, those heads will be identified by "GTP" in a location similar to the other heads.

As for a cam I'd suggest something from like the comp cams 35-234-3 or 35-238-3 cam and lifter kit(I'm pretty sure that motor was still a flat tappet and not a roller.. don't think that started until 1985-1986). In any event this cam is a HUGH upgrade from stock and combined with a full exhaust and say GT40 heads you'll have 300hp easy.. which is about double stock output. Not bad for a day's work.


 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 09:40 AM
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The heads and cam will help, just don't plan on anything more radical as the blocks for those years were as bad as the heads. Beginning with the 1980 model year, Ford removed 16 pounds of iron from the 302 blocks. The early 50 oz cranks are like wise weak sisters, seen two of em break in half in stock applications. You would really be miles ahead swapping in a 90's 5.0 motor from a Mustang, T-Bird, Cougar, Pickup, Van or Explorer/Mountaineer and build from there. You'll get a roller block, cam and better heads. If you go with the pickup/van 5.0, pick one of the 94-97's, these engines are basically a small step behind the HO 5.0 from the Mustangs, and only in the cam grind on the intake side, the rest of the engine is the same as the Stangs from 93-95
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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A set of gears in the rear end with a good LS will help as well. Seeing as you want to race it, 4.10 should be good for that with an LS. Burnouts will be cake with those gears and the engine upgrades
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys! I am going to have to do some junkyard sourcing, maybe craigslist too, like I said, this is a low budget "old school" type build. If the block cant handle the upgrades, and it grenades, then I'll buy a better setup and put it in a nicer car as well lol.. Untill then, happy moddin and thank you!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 07:09 AM
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I second the 4.10 gear swap.

I've seen what was claimed to be nearly stock Mustangs with 4.10's really do some impressive things.

The 302 makes great power, you just have to keep it in it's powerband (like any engine).
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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Would the E5 heads sometimes have the numeral "5" on them as well? I have to go to work, so I can't pull the valve covers right now, but the 302 in my 79 'Bird has a "R" on one head, and a "5" on the other. My other 79 Bird had a 78 Versailles 302 with the desirable block casting that the previous owner put in ( I kept it when I junked the car out!). So I'm assuming the 79 I have now also has a different motor in it as well. Sometime in next couple of days I'll pull the covers (they need new gaskets) and let you know. Just wondering about the "5".
 
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