Bought a used 1994 Explorer here in Canada--Calgary--Vehicle runs fine or did until yesterday---has mild rust which I am dealing with---4x4 and automatic with no mechanical issues--

Had it about a month and just registered it and took it north for a short trip--all was fine until got back in small town where I am staying.

Took it about 6 blocks into downtown and when shut off and tried to start--nothing--no lights, no horn, no lights on dash--total dead.

Battery not the issue--does same when jumper cables attached-no courtesy lights, no radio, no power inside---only a weak beeping from under the dash.

I am considering connecting straight to the starter with another vehicle but have not tried that yet---fuel pump switch ruled out by reset even though I knew it would not stop all power to everything.

There is also no spark when neg cable is attached to battery--My next step is to examine starter solinoid on front inside of right fender.

I have a meter and know how to use it--looking to know if the solinoid will kill all power or what I should look for---all main fuses in the box under the hood are good---I was also planning to look for low resistance to ground on the output side of the solinoid as the ABS light did come on right before the problem happened.

If possible give me a abc of what to check and in what order---I have tried to give as much info as possible as I answer tech questions on another site for free---

1994 Explorer Limited with mild rust (by Canadian standards--I am from USA)

 

Common problem with this type of power failure..

Green monster has attacked copper wire inside main wire from Battery... Philip

 

Its the V6 and yes I was doing some voltage checks--seems voltage at plate from positive terminal but readings drop a bit at the solinoid---going to try to bypass the connection with a jumper cable next--there is rust but the cable seems free of it--got any idea if a loss at the solinoid would kill all power to the ignition and all lights in the vehicle?

It seems to me voltage would have to be constant for headlights etc not to even function---I am a electronics tech so always look for opens as well as shorts--see a few fuse links near the solinoid so when cables are removed will test those---if get any tv problem let me know.

Also no spark when neg cable is attached to battery suggests a open--either on neg side or hot side.

I answer questions on Fixya----SD TECH there.

 

Probably not an open, definitely not a short, most probably a high resistance in main cable.

No an issue with the solenoid would not affect the lights... That is why I say check close to battery source... Philip

 

It has just been found--it was an open in the cable from battery to solenoid.

I bypassed the cable with a new one laying in the garage---what I have is coming off the pos on the battery a plate with one cable going to solenoid and a larger one on other side of plate (its attached to pos head) and I had voltage on the bolt for the one but a inch away on the crimped copper tube no voltage.

By holding a new cable in place power returned and was able to roll power windows up (expecting rain tomorrow).

I will tomorrow replace the pos cable head and the wire going to solenoid--the other larger cable (goes to starter?) will be a different issue as may not be enough slack to cut it to fresh wire and will avoid replacing it if possible.

Know the vehicle will start as I jumped voltage and the starter tried to engage.

The break is actually where the copper fitting is crimped to the cable-could avoid replacing that but it is short and easy.

Thank you for your good advice and it made me think. Could of saved the 50 dollar tow (6 blocks) if I had went over this after buying the vehicle.

Problem solved (will be tomorrow) and hopefully no more issues.

Only paid 950 for vehicle with new tires, rebuilt tranny and 4x4 that works---AC does not work--a leak somewhere but that can be dealt with also.

Thanks again and glad I found this site.