95 power problem
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 432
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From: Central VA
95 power problem
Went to start my truck today and when I turned the key, all power cut. No dash lights, no courtesy light, nothing at all.
Tested the battery with a load tester and it was fine. Unhooked the negative cable and unplugged/plugged in the big fuses in the underhood fuse box, then hooked up the negative cable again and it power came back. But as soon as I turned the key power died again.
What things should I check? The starter is a NAPA unit that's only 2 or 3 years old.
Tested the battery with a load tester and it was fine. Unhooked the negative cable and unplugged/plugged in the big fuses in the underhood fuse box, then hooked up the negative cable again and it power came back. But as soon as I turned the key power died again.
What things should I check? The starter is a NAPA unit that's only 2 or 3 years old.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 973
Likes: 2
From: Texas
I would make sure both battery cable are in good condition and tight. I have the same problem on my 93 every now and then. It has to do with the connection being good enough to support the lights and what not, but then when the starter pulls a much bigger load it, loses it. But im not completely sure.
I do know how ever, that tightening the cable on my truck fixed it.
Good Luck.
I do know how ever, that tightening the cable on my truck fixed it.
Good Luck.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 432
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From: Central VA
The actual voltage I was reading was about 12.6. And the load tester read in the green range.
I did replace the battery cable ends a couple years ago, and I have them treated with dielectric grease to make a better corrosion free connection.
I tried wiggling both cables and the ends but no help. I can tap the negative battery cable end against the negative post with no hint of a spark or anything.
I did replace the battery cable ends a couple years ago, and I have them treated with dielectric grease to make a better corrosion free connection.
I tried wiggling both cables and the ends but no help. I can tap the negative battery cable end against the negative post with no hint of a spark or anything.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 8
From: Cleveland, TN
if it's the clamp on replacement ends, I'll bet the cable is corroded enough to not pass high current.. Those ends are JUNK!!!!!! They are in the same category as a temporary spare... just enough to get you home or to somewhere a REAL repair can be made....
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Central VA
I did clean the ground connection to the fender. That green stuff that's on the bolt going into the fender, I assume it's not corrosion but some sort of paint? Either way I used contact cleaner and a wire brush on it and the nuts.
Also replaced the starter solenoid for the hell of it since I had one on the shelf. No luck.
It could be the cable ends. I wimped out and had it towed to a friend's garage. With a power problem that bad even if I got it started I was worried about losing electrical power on the road.
Also replaced the starter solenoid for the hell of it since I had one on the shelf. No luck.
It could be the cable ends. I wimped out and had it towed to a friend's garage. With a power problem that bad even if I got it started I was worried about losing electrical power on the road.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 8
From: Cleveland, TN
Green stuff IS corrosion... Now that is cleaned up,, remove the clamp on battery cable (unbolt and pull battery clamp off of the wire) ends and clean the green out of there too.
Of course I assume you have cleaned the clamp to battery connection..
Of course I assume you have cleaned the clamp to battery connection..
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 432
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From: Central VA
I recognize corrosion, but the bolt was totally smoothly green, almost like some sort of paint.
Anyway the garage replaced the battery cable ends; I had installed some quick-release lever ends on there a couple years ago that I thought were doing a good job. They and the battery terminals were corrosion free, I had used dielectric grease to keep corrosion and moisture out. But since they put the new ends on it's cranked just fine 4 times now since I left the garage.
I'm betting 6 months from now I'll have starting problems again, but I'm happy for now. Seems like this truck is really picky about it's battery connections.
Anyway the garage replaced the battery cable ends; I had installed some quick-release lever ends on there a couple years ago that I thought were doing a good job. They and the battery terminals were corrosion free, I had used dielectric grease to keep corrosion and moisture out. But since they put the new ends on it's cranked just fine 4 times now since I left the garage.
I'm betting 6 months from now I'll have starting problems again, but I'm happy for now. Seems like this truck is really picky about it's battery connections.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 1
After a thorough cleaning (if there's any battery acid or corrosion left), paint the terminals with this:
Battery Terminal Protectant - *Battery Term. Protectant
or something similar. It's designed to inhibit corrosion. it should help protect the connections to the battery and the frame/block longer.
Battery Terminal Protectant - *Battery Term. Protectant
or something similar. It's designed to inhibit corrosion. it should help protect the connections to the battery and the frame/block longer.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
After a thorough cleaning (if there's any battery acid or corrosion left), paint the terminals with this:
Battery Terminal Protectant - *Battery Term. Protectant
or something similar. It's designed to inhibit corrosion. it should help protect the connections to the battery and the frame/block longer.
Battery Terminal Protectant - *Battery Term. Protectant
or something similar. It's designed to inhibit corrosion. it should help protect the connections to the battery and the frame/block longer.
I also use those red/green felt washers. I reapply the spray about once every 6 months.
Our vehicles almost never get corrosion on battery terminals.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,541
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From: Des Moines
I'm not arguing that a good, crimped on connection is ideal, but I had to replace my positive terminal connector shortly after I bought my F150. I bought a clamp on connector and after 2 years, I still haven't had a problem with it. I dabbed a little bit of dielectric grease on the cable end before clamping it on, and I keep the battery connections coated with dielectric grease as well, so maybe that's made a difference.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 432
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From: Central VA
I'm not arguing that a good, crimped on connection is ideal, but I had to replace my positive terminal connector shortly after I bought my F150. I bought a clamp on connector and after 2 years, I still haven't had a problem with it. I dabbed a little bit of dielectric grease on the cable end before clamping it on, and I keep the battery connections coated with dielectric grease as well, so maybe that's made a difference.
I also use that spray-on red battery terminal protectant.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 4
From: Baltimore
Did you say 'ground connection at the fender'? I was always led to believe that a battery ground went to the block. (Fender is grounded to frame thru a braided strap, which is often unreliable.) I would check into that aspect as far as maintaining good current path and battery life...