No on the rebuild of injectors. There are some site sponsors that do a great job, and will set you up with a better injector than stock, and at a better price!

 

At this point I don't care if I sound stupid. I'll worry about sounding smart later. I have a volt meter. How do I use it on the BARO sensor? I read about it and understand the specs, I just don't want to hook up the wrong lead to the wrong terminal. Thanks A LOT!

 

No stupid questions .. the sensor is 3 wires. Connect the volt meter ground to a known ground somewhere (frame). One of the wires will be VREF (5 volts from the PCM) that powers the BARO, another wire will be ground so you will measure close to zero volts and the third wire is the output going to the PCM measuring altitude, that's the wire you want. With key on and engine off measure the voltage.

The problem is getting the the positive probe on each wire. I use a small safety pin (wife provided) and stick it through the wire, which usually ends up with some blood lose on a finger or two, however it does not damage the actual wire. Like this ...



From the link above ...

<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"><caption>
</caption> <tbody><tr><th colspan="2" align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Test Points (+) #84 to (-) #91</th><th rowspan="2" align="CENTER" valign="bottom">kPa</th><th rowspan="2" align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Comments</th></tr> <tr><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Voltage</th><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">In. Hg.</th></tr> <tr><td align="CENTER" valign="top">4.89</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">31.0905</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">105</td><td align="LEFT" valign="top">High atmospheric pressure</td></tr> <tr><td align="CENTER" valign="top">4.6</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">29.61</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">100</td><td align="LEFT" valign="top">Normal atmospheric pressure at sea level</td></tr> <tr><td align="CENTER" valign="top">2.6</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">17.766</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">60</td><td align="LEFT" valign="top">Normal atmospheric pressure at 10,000 feet</td></tr></tbody></table>
You can check if the BARO is working within reason. Bottom line it's probably OK but for 5 minutes of work you can verify instead of paying $100 and shot gunning parts.

 

Check the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) on the rear differential. That sensor can make your truck shift like crap when bad.

 

I would suggest also to check wiring of trailer brake controller, if it has one. If it's wired to the brake light switch on the pedal, unhook it. Also, the trailer light plug in the back. If it's spliced into the wires going to the tail lights, unhook it. An incorrectly controller was causing strange problems with mine.

 

That's so crazy you mention the brake controller. Didn't even know the guy had one, but it was tucked up there like a hidden piece of gold. And it looked like my 7 year old wired it. I took it out yesterday, but need to remove the rest of the birds nest today. Good call. I need to figure out my ohm meter and I'm off and running. SOOO tired of paying people to learn at my expense. Thanks again guys for all your time. I'm sure you know from your own experience, but it is truly appreciated. P.S. My brake lights all seem to work as they should, but he did wire the controller directly into the fuse box, by plugging a 1/4" male term directly into the box. DING DING DING and what do we have for the winner??!!

 

Sooooo that did it?

 

I don't mean to be a negative Nancy or anything, but back when I was struggling with my E4OD, I thought I resolved it like three separate times. I hope you fixed it, though.

 

I will never have a stick...i replaced a stack of dual masses back in the late 90's .....never want to pull another stick shift from one of these in my life.
fixing that e4od would be my only option!

 

I had less trouble putting the ZF in than taking the E4OD out.

 

Yeah Joseph! What's up with that? LOL. Man I know too well that I've been through NUMEROUS things on this e40d thinking it's been fixed, but to no avail. In fact, almost 2k later. Last night, I checked out the speed sensor and the connector was loose, so I tugged a little and the lock on the pig tail side, just broke off. Like any good DIYer, I got my bailing wire and secured it and knock on wood, it started shifting smoother than ever. I also removed the Play School brake controller, wiring for it and the splice job in the back. I'm going to the salvage yard today to get a new pig tail to splice in for the speed sensor and will go through the wiring for the brake controller with a fine tooth comb to remove the hair pie. I'll let you know what I find.

 

Just drove my son to school and no real issues. Still feels like a timing issue (as far as speed sensing is concerned, but I haven't finished removing the old wiring from the brake controller. Just feels rough. I'm going to do a few things for good measure as I chase these sensor/wiring issues. I am going to run some Sea Foam in it, change the fuel filter again. Honestly Joseph, After the gobs of threads I've read about this E40d and the problems some of them seem to have, everyday is a new adventure. That's not negative! That's experience! Right?

 

Honestly,when i worked at the dealer we had FAR and i mean FAR fewer auto problems than sticks.I would venture to say 10 to 1. But that is just my one observation.I for one like driving stick shifts....for about one trip across town,then im done.my knee just wont take it anymore anyway.haha

 

Well, Just got stuck in 1st again. Had to manually shift to 2nd, then to drive. After that it started shifting fine again. I'm going to see if the speed sensor harness came loose.

 

Perhaps a selenoid pack might be due? An expensive part to replace though if that doesn't fix it.