When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i have been lurking this message board since august when i bought my bone stock 54 f100 with factory 6 volt and 223 straight 6 engine, but i have been yet to post... so here's my first question...
i bought it not knowing whether or not it would run. i have pretty much changed out 90% of the wiring and replaced all the normal "tune up" parts related to the electrical system... after doing this, the truck runs perfect, however it will NOT start with the ballast resistor installed. it has a brand new MSD 1 ohm resistor that passes a resistance/continuity test, and will only run if it's bypassed? This truck in not roadworthy yet... i just run it once a week in my garage to keep everything flowing, so i have not seen any adverse effects of running without the resistor. Does anyone have any ideas?
I found one post with wiring information for a 6 volt to 12 volt conversion that stated the resistor is to be connected in series with the ignition switch to the + terminal of the coil. That is how it is connected now... But would it be different in my case because i have a 6 volt + ground? should it go through the negative terminal of the coil from the ballast resistor?
any suggestions?
Welcome to the forum and the joys of making 60 + YO stuff work.
Any time you read of converting to 12 volts they mandate converting to neg ground. Alternators mandate it and it is just done if you go with 12 volt generator. If you are bone stock with 6Volt positive ground, forget everything you've read about conversion.
First off, for efficiency, the + side of your coil should go to ground. Second, you may not require the resistor if you have a coil with a resistance built into the primary, some coils have the resistance. What do you know about the coil, new, 6V, 12 V?
About the worst you will do is experience short point life without the resistor.
I would switch the coil wires and try it. My guess is you're getting very weak spark with the resistor installed. Good luck.
And if you will list your approximate location, someone with knowledge may jump in to offer help if you get stuck bad.
....
First off, for efficiency, the + side of your coil should go to the points. ....
Just to clarify what Ray said...
I don't know if Ford did this in '54, but at some point they used resistance wire to the coil instead of a ballast resistor. If your truck had that kind of wire, you'd be doubling up on resistance. See what voltage you're getting at the coil with it running and without the ballast.
Welcome to the forum, and show us your ride! (pictures)
I don't know if Ford did this in '54, but at some point they used resistance wire to the coil instead of a ballast resistor. If your truck had that kind of wire, you'd be doubling up on resistance. See what voltage you're getting at the coil with it running and without the ballast.
Welcome to the forum, and show us your ride! (pictures)
And I should have said, the + wire from the coil runs thru the distributor and the points and to ground when the points close. You know, we may get this thing said right yet.
And I forgot about the resistive wire. Old age I guess.
And yes, a complete set of truck pictures would help diagnose the electrical issues
thanks everone... when i get a minute i'll swap the wires on the coil and try the resistor...
in case you didn't see it already, i started a build thread