OK that makes sense...the only IFS option worse than the Volare in this day and age is the Camaro/Nova. So much so that I personally don't even consider it as a viable option any longer. When you consider the guys who are building Camaros/Firebirds/Novas...they are pulling these clips off in favor of a MII style IFS. The MII IFS welds in place to the stock Ford frame, no cutting, no notching. The inner fender panels will need to be cut to provide clearance for the upper a-arms but this is the case for virtually any IFS that you may consider.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I think after listening to your suggestions I might just invest in a disc brake kit and the master cylinder and throw those on the straight axle so I can drive it and still have some good braking power. Any thoughts? After all when I do upgrade to a Mustang II IFS I will need that master cylinder anyways.

 

I have a stock straight axle on my truck, like 38 coupe said, if its wore out its gonna handle like crap. I rebuilt mine and never had a problem,it does drive and steer like a truck because thats what it is. I have the stock brakes,I may convert to disc in the future now that theres a place that makes disc brakes for the F250, parts are availible for your truck and not expensive, got my parts at NPD, check them out.

 

How would an aerostar ifs work for him?

 

Okay so I was shopping around for disc brake kits and my wife sent me the July issue of Classic Trucks. In there was in article about attaching mono leaf springs and front disc brakes to a 56 f100. It was actually perfect it answered a lot of questions and made me feel comfortable about my next decision. I still have some questions though that maybe you guys could answer. What do you think about the mono leaf spring kits that performance online sells? They drop the ride height anywhere from 3.5 - 4 inches up front and move the axle centerline forward one inch. Also does anyone have a specific disc brake kit in mind that they would recommend? I feel the standard ones from CPP, Performance Online, or Speedway are all good. They come with the booster and all the hardware for around $600. I was wondering if I hould stick witht the bolt pattern I have now or change it to 5 x 4.5. I would have to put some loaner wheels on the front but I do plan on changing the rear end and possibly the front suspension in the front later on.....so if I went 5 x 4.5 now I could buy the wheels that I want on their and not worry about not being able to use them on future upgrades.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

You will leave yourself with a lot more options for wheels if you go to the uber-common 5x4.5 lug pattern now.

 

I strongly agree with Charlie, That's the way I went.

 

What happened to "I don't plan on spending a lot of money"?

 

He'll find out quickly that a statement like that is what gets you into deeper trouble! I should know!

 

Blackhawkman, Thanks for your service! Now to your questions: You have been getting some bad and/or old advice from those you have been talking to. The Volare is an antique itself but in it's day was one of the only choices in a demountable IFS that was wide enough and strong enough to work on our trucks, basically the only game in town. The Volare itself was never known for it's handling, ride, durability or sophisticated engineering, and now parts are becoming difficult to near impossible to get! As said the GM clip is about as bad, both are 20-30 years ago choices the industry is so far advanced from when those were the hot setup. Kinda like wanting to build a 386 computer running windows 3.0 to surf the internet. You could possibly do it but why would you want to spend the money on it and where would you go for support?
Same with whoever told you there was something wrong with the beam axle. I have the skills, equipment and everything I would need to easily put an IFS under my 56 panel, and am a sports car racer so I have great appreciation for good handling, but I am using the beam axle. The beam if fully rebuilt with the right springs, shocks, Toyota power steering or rebuilt stock box will actually ride and handle BETTER than the Volare IFS.
I'd also throw away your copy of Classic Trucks or just hang the pictures on the wall for inspiration. CT sells out their tech articles to promote their largest advertisers. Case in point: the monoleaf springs are another bad idea. Several members here have tried them and most that did have replaced them with a good set of multileaf. Mid Fifty sells what they call down and forward springs that will do what you want and work very well. Have your wife call MF Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Home at their toll free # and order you one of their free catalogs. It's a great resource with a lot of good information, not just a listing of parts. They will also make your wife feel very comfortable since they are all female owned and operated! They are great people to deal with and anyone you talk to there really knows what they are talking about and will tell you the truth.

The best thing you can do is to stop and make a plan for your build. Start by defining what you want the function of your truck to be, that can include ASAP and in a couple years down the road. Next make a list of everything and anything you'd like the truck to have, not specific parts, but generalized, like IFS not Volare IFS, power steering, not TCI power steering (unless you already have the parts). Put each one on a separate card or sheet of paper so they can be sorted later
After making that list, number each in order of importance and/or need. Next add the reason for that change or addition, what you expect it to accomplish or provide you with. then add the approximate cost, add 50% over the cost of the major parts for the incidentals. Next list who will do the work, self or job out, finally add cost of new equipment you will need to do the work and/or the cost of hiring it out. Example: (change or addition) Air conditioning (need or want) want bordering on need, depending on climate where you live and how much you will be driving it. (order of importance) 6/20, (accomplish) make the truck more pleasant to drive especially for you wife and small child so you will use it more often for family functions. (cost of parts) 1000.00 for major parts + 500.00 for incidentals = 1500.00 (who will do the work) install self, job out filling the system. (tools or equipment to purchase) none (cost of hired work) 200.00.
Now review each sheet or card and see if the order is still valid. Change any needed. Now sort the sheets or cards by the order of importance. You now have your build plan. You can further divide the deck by a time line. True fact: any modifications are going to cost twice as much and take 4 times as long as you think they will, make sure you are willing to be into it for the long haul before you invest any money!
I am in Durham, when you get back to Bragg give me a shout and we can get together and talk over your plans.

 

If I had to do it all over I would have left my truck stock, which it was when I first bought it. I would have been enjoying all these years instead of working on it. Now if I had lots of money I would buy one at Barrett-Jackson, don't get me wrong I enjoy working on my truck but I'm older now and I just want to ride. I didn't plan on spending alot of money either!

 

So Change 3! Let me start out by saying that I have valued everyones input. AxRacer thanks for your detailed input, I have done just what you said laid out exactly what I wanted for my truck and I have done so in my head millions of times. That being said a budget street rod or cruiser is what I had in mind. My defintion of a lot of $$ is buying parts from a catalog and putting them in my truck. This would be true if I went and bought a Mustang II front end, but maybe not that bad if I just did the disc brake conversion. I completely understand your point about the CT mag and all their advertising...it makes sense.
I have researched the different front end types over and over again until I could come up with a solution that fits my needs and $$. So a IFS seemed like the way to go if I could get what I wanted out of it for the right price. A while back I did find a Volare clip for 150.00 so that seemed like a good deal, but once I realized that I would need to replace the bushings and rotors it was no longer a cheaper solution especially with the other parts I would need. So then I went back to the advice of many on here and looked at a disc brake conversion and some suspension pieces but even then it was a bit pricy.
Well my buddy found me a 03 Crown Vic IFS which I told him was one of the many options. He found this clip for $300.00 and everything is there and in good condition. Now I appreciate everyones input and even though this will be the first time I do anything to the front suspension of a 56 f100 this is not something I jumped into blind with no research. Given that I have done my homework on the numerous options of the f100 suspension swaps, can anyone tell me if going the 03 crown vic route is a bad idea? I found it and all the work/parts/trouble that go with it to be one of the better options. Given the price I am going to purchase it for? Nothing is easy/cheap but considering I don't have to hack the frame at all, it's $300.00 plus the metal, brake booster, power steering pump, and I get IFS, rack and pinion, disc brakes. The Volare was a consideration because it could possibly be done cheaper....but with the crown vic I have more modern parts, less wear on the parts, and it actually "seams" easier then the Volare install so the Volare is out the window! I have researched the 03 Crown Vic install and I know what bumps in the road I will be facing but compared to upgrading the straight axle? What do you guys think? I will tell you that out of all my options so far this one has gotten my attention the most! If I take what I think I would spend on all the neccesary parts and material and then triple it, it would still be about the price of a complete Mustang II suspension (suspension only).

Ax Racer when I get back maybe we can get togethor

 

You can answer your own question...take a look at any police cruiser (most are all Crown Vics) and notice the depth of the front wheels. The offset on the wheels place the hubcap almost flush with the edge of the rim/tire. There is a reason for this...the track width of the CV IFS is so wide that, even on a late model WIDE car, Ford had to add maximum backspace to the wheels to get the tires to fit under the fenders.

When this CV IFS first came up as an option I went to the junkyard and took expensive measurements on the suspension. My conclusion was that this IFS was not suitable for use on a 53-56 F100. Others disagree...these folks are the ones who went that route and are either using late model wheels or are looking at ways to extend their fenders out to make room for the wheels. For me, neither of these options are satisfactory...I don't care how CHEAP the CV IFS is at the junkyard. There is only one CV IFS installation that I have seen on an early F100 that looks reasonable...and that guy narrowed the suspension considerably to make it work.

I know that you've heard this saying before, "the devil is in the details". Good on ya for doing your homework before commiting to a course of action!

 

Maybe consider the Lexus IFS like the one i am doing in my 56 panel. It does require some fabrication work but generally pretty easy and track width is very similiar to stock 56. Have a look in my album. John

 

There is a topic going right now:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...front-end.html
that graphically shows the work needed to use the CV IFS. 4" narrowing of the aluminum crossmember (have a certified aircraft welder capable of welding the structural aluminum member back together?), 4" narrowing of the steering rack (requires welding and machining), a complete new frame.
Not exactly what I'd call a bolt together or inexpensive solution.
There are a couple of salvage yard IFS that have been used that fit better than the Volare or the CV. First is the Jaguar XJ-6, XJS. It's a bolt in on the F1, requires a small amount of frame or crossmember mod to fit the 53-56. These units are a little bit harder to find unless you are close to a large city, rural folk seldom drive Jags, but since the bodies were compressed rust they are cheap when you do find one. The IRS can also be used. Use this link for weeks of reading material on this swap:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ator-help.html

The next is a new option: Lexus sc400. This one does require some fabrication work, but looks to be the best one so far. Read about it here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lexus-ifs.html

PS: any IFS install is going to require boxing the frame and possibly adding a K member to stiffen the frame.