2003 F 250 Powerstroke won't start
I am new to the forum and would like to say hi. Presently own the vehicle listed above with 178,000 miles.
I ususally don't drive the vehicle much but about every 3 weeks or so I will start it.
Well, the other day when I went to start it, it would turn over slow but wouldn't start. Never had any problems before - always fired up and ran perfect.
Checked the batteries (2) - charged them overnight and put a 15 second load test on each battery after charging them. Voltage on both stayed around 11.5 with a load test on them.
Tried starting the beast again but same go - the engine would only rotate around 100 rpms.
Next - changed out the starter- purchased a new one last year because the one being used had a cracked housing so I figured it was time to change it anyway. It didn't create any problems though while on the vehicle.
So, tried to start the beast again - no go - turns over really slow. Again load tested both batteries - remained at 11.5 v with 15 second load test.
Changed the fuel filter on the engine - old one looked dark but appeared ok. One thing I did notice is after I removed the old filter the fuel bowl was full. When I installed the new filter the fuel bowl was empty -
Also, when the engine is turning over, no movement on the oil pressure gauge. With the key turned to the on position the moisture light, engine light, gauge check lights stay on. The glow plug light comes on but goes out.
I can hear the fuel pump come on and then go off. After that there is sort of a "thump" coming from the engine.
Have been doing a lot of research on engine no start conditions and noticed none had a problem with the engine turning slow.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your input.
SteveKJR
Thanks for the reply. I ohm tested the plus terminal wires going between the batteries - reading at 1 ohm
Also checked the ohms from the positive battery terminal wire to where it connects to the starter - 1 ohm.
Visually inspected the negative battery terminal wire where it connects to the motor and it was tight. Did a ohm test from the negative battery terminal where it connects to the battery to engine ground - 1 ohm.
So, it appears that the positive/negative wiring appears to be ok.
As I stated above - never had a problem starting the bease what is confusing is that the engine is slow turning.
Now I am wondering if this could be because no fuel is going to the injectors? Haven't checked the pressures yet, just checking the electrical side - checked all fuses and relays - ohm tested the coil on the relays in the engine compartment and they checked out fine.
SteveKJR
If one or the other is seized could be holding the engine/starter back from cranking fast enough to start
IIRC you need a minimum of 100 rpm to start so its borderline
A guy here awhile back changed his whole engine because it wouldnt start got the new engine in and still wouldnt start then took serpentine belt off and fired right up. His turned out to be a Seized A/C Compressor clutch.
Diffently check for a locked up component on the serpentine system. Also I'm assuming your testing these batteries with the cables unhooked? Have you tried cranking it with jumper cables/booster pack/etc?
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You hit the nail on the head - it was the compressor. Apparently I was having A/C compressor problems several months ago and decided to wait before I looked into the problem.
Well with the Beast being idle for about two months, it was enough time for the ball bearings on the pully to rust and cause the pully to lock up.
Prior to checking the A/C compressor, I changed the main fuel filter just forward of the gas tank. Also did a voltage check on the fuel injector control module supply voltage - 48 volts - checked out ok.
I then decided to remove the serpentine belt and try to start the Beast - well - it started immediately.
From that point I checked the compressor pulley and to my surprise it was locked.
Talk about being a happy camper - wow - I would have never thought that could cause the problem.
The ball bearings caused the pully to lock and the coil was completely burned.
As a matter of fact everything was full of rust and it was quite difficult to get everything apart.
One good thing is that the compressor is still working - the cover plate with the tringular shape attaches directly to the a/c compressor shaft and it turns - you can hear it pumping.
I also removed and cleaned the EGR valve, it was pretty nasty.
Anyway, thanks again for all the responses - I am glad I didn't throw tons of money trying to solve the problem without knowing what it was. There is a ton of information on the web when it comes to checking these engines out and steps to follow when doing it.
Thanks again for all the responses and I do greatly appreciate everyones input.
BTW - I was going to post some pics but couldn't find the "download" bar. If someone can provide me with info on how to download, I took several pics of the compressor and EGR valve that I can post.
Thanks again
Regards
SteveKJR
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