Hubs not locking question....
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Hubs not locking question....
Hello to all,
Excuse my technical ignorance but, I have a 2003 F350 4x4. I have the switch on the dash to engage 4x4. After I do that to get it into full time 4wheel drive I would then manually lock the hubs on the wheel when needed. It all worked before however last weekend the wheel hubs would not go into the lock position. It is in the free position and frozen. The 4x4 engages (light on dash) and I feel the transfer case engaged as I turn the steering wheel but again not in full time 4x4 unless that wheel hub manually locked.
It was all working a few months ago but now not the actual hubs able to be locked.
I had the needle bearings serviced last year so I suspect that is not the problem. Can dirt be in the hubs? Again, excuse my ignorance and would appreciate any advise.
Thank you,
Anj
Excuse my technical ignorance but, I have a 2003 F350 4x4. I have the switch on the dash to engage 4x4. After I do that to get it into full time 4wheel drive I would then manually lock the hubs on the wheel when needed. It all worked before however last weekend the wheel hubs would not go into the lock position. It is in the free position and frozen. The 4x4 engages (light on dash) and I feel the transfer case engaged as I turn the steering wheel but again not in full time 4x4 unless that wheel hub manually locked.
It was all working a few months ago but now not the actual hubs able to be locked.
I had the needle bearings serviced last year so I suspect that is not the problem. Can dirt be in the hubs? Again, excuse my ignorance and would appreciate any advise.
Thank you,
Anj
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Could be a couple of different things. The most common is a vacuum line leak. These "auto" hubs are vacuum controlled. The line that goes to the back side of the hub gets pretty weathered and will crack and leak. Best and cheapest to follow the lines from the hubs back. Check for cracks, breaks etc. If you find one or they just look like garbage, then replace them. Not expensive and easy to do.
If that isn't the issue then there is a yellow or orange, (Can't remember which color), O-ring that seals the hub for the vacuum to work. This too is cheap but a little more work to replace. Not bad though.
There are other possibilities but these two are the most common
You wont see the hub change positions. If they are the factory hubs then you just leave them in AUTO. This allows the engage and disengage from the switch. LOCK is always locked. A backup in case of AUTO failure.
You said the hub is frozen....then you said you can turn it. Is it stuck in the AUTO position or were you expecting it to change positions?
If that isn't the issue then there is a yellow or orange, (Can't remember which color), O-ring that seals the hub for the vacuum to work. This too is cheap but a little more work to replace. Not bad though.
There are other possibilities but these two are the most common
You wont see the hub change positions. If they are the factory hubs then you just leave them in AUTO. This allows the engage and disengage from the switch. LOCK is always locked. A backup in case of AUTO failure.
You said the hub is frozen....then you said you can turn it. Is it stuck in the AUTO position or were you expecting it to change positions?
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reply.....
Thanks for the reply. O.K. I took the truck to a local mechanic. He stated the vacum hose looks fine.
He then tried to turn the **** on the hub into the lock position (they are stuck in auto). One could not turn at all and the other one only turn with a vice grip.
He then took the hub housing off and showed me the dial on the hub is frozen! It will not budge. He said the dial should rotate.
With that at hand I was told I need entire new hubs which cost $301 each from Ford.
The only thing I can think of is the needle bearings were serviced / packed last year. Maybe something got into that dial??????
Let me know your thoughts.....Thanks, anj
He then tried to turn the **** on the hub into the lock position (they are stuck in auto). One could not turn at all and the other one only turn with a vice grip.
He then took the hub housing off and showed me the dial on the hub is frozen! It will not budge. He said the dial should rotate.
With that at hand I was told I need entire new hubs which cost $301 each from Ford.
The only thing I can think of is the needle bearings were serviced / packed last year. Maybe something got into that dial??????
Let me know your thoughts.....Thanks, anj
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
First....Are you really set on having factory auto hubs?
If not then good.... Get a set of Warn hubs that come with a lifetime warranty AND no more issues with them. Yes...they will be manual hubs meaning they wont lock automatically. You will have to lock them when you want 4x4... but you lock them then only use the switch when needed. During good weather, you just unlock them. And they aren't $301 each side.
If you are set on factory hubs, before buying them, take a look at this....
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
Step by step instructions with pictures on taking them apart for new seals, etc. If you find the part that is pad in there you can replace it yourself. I would hate to fond out what the total would be from the dealer. Doesn't really take fancy specialty tools and you get the pride of fixing it yourself. Plus you can get in contact with Guzzle for any questions you might have.
If not then good.... Get a set of Warn hubs that come with a lifetime warranty AND no more issues with them. Yes...they will be manual hubs meaning they wont lock automatically. You will have to lock them when you want 4x4... but you lock them then only use the switch when needed. During good weather, you just unlock them. And they aren't $301 each side.
If you are set on factory hubs, before buying them, take a look at this....
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
Step by step instructions with pictures on taking them apart for new seals, etc. If you find the part that is pad in there you can replace it yourself. I would hate to fond out what the total would be from the dealer. Doesn't really take fancy specialty tools and you get the pride of fixing it yourself. Plus you can get in contact with Guzzle for any questions you might have.
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did it...
Hey, thanks for your replies. Well you are right. After some research I decided the OEM's are junk. I ordered WARN 38826 Premium Manual Hubs.
I believe all I will need to do is cap off the vacum lines. I could use the dash switch for low or high and like you said manually lock hubs.
If I ma wrong please inform.
Oh, got the Warns of amazon for around $210 each.
Thank you!
I believe all I will need to do is cap off the vacum lines. I could use the dash switch for low or high and like you said manually lock hubs.
If I ma wrong please inform.
Oh, got the Warns of amazon for around $210 each.
Thank you!
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,425
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Good buy on the Warn hubs. 
Just for future reference, I've experienced the same issue's with the hubs locking up, where you can't manually turn the hubs on my Ex, my F-250, and a buddy's truck as well. Over time the hubs dry out on the inside. So all that is needed is to take the hubs off, a little tear down, lube them up with a good grease, and put them back on. Takes at most, about an hour to do both side. 
Just for future reference, I've experienced the same issue's with the hubs locking up, where you can't manually turn the hubs on my Ex, my F-250, and a buddy's truck as well. Over time the hubs dry out on the inside. So all that is needed is to take the hubs off, a little tear down, lube them up with a good grease, and put them back on. Takes at most, about an hour to do both side.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Hey, thanks for your replies. Well you are right. After some research I decided the OEM's are junk. I ordered WARN 38826 Premium Manual Hubs.
I believe all I will need to do is cap off the vacum lines. I could use the dash switch for low or high and like you said manually lock hubs.
If I ma wrong please inform.
Oh, got the Warns of amazon for around $210 each.
Thank you!
I believe all I will need to do is cap off the vacum lines. I could use the dash switch for low or high and like you said manually lock hubs.
If I ma wrong please inform.
Oh, got the Warns of amazon for around $210 each.
Thank you!
When you go to caop off the vacuum line, follow it back and remove as much as you can before the first junction the cap it off. This way you don't have an unused vacuum line flopping around.
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