I consider myself a pretty decent mechanic. The one thing I have never really had to fix or replace is locking hubs. I probably should know the answer to this question, but i dont. so here we go.

I own 2 2003 f250 fx4's. It has (had) the factory manual locking hubs. In the past if driving on snow or in mudd I could flip the selector switch to 4H and leave the hubs in FREE (not get out and get dirty or freeze my butt off). I would get out of whatever sticky situation I was in, and it felt as if I had four whel drive. I know the manual hubs worked because I would spinout in 2 wheel and flip to 4H and no spin plus move forward. Flip back to 2 wheel and spin the rear wheels. Am I right or am I just imagining things? Does the tourque of the axle automaticaly lock the hubs in when given power while in the FREE position? Is the lock setting just so when no torque is applied it stays locked in?

I just replaced my stock hubs with the Warn Premium manual locking hubs. Do they operate the same as the factory hubs?

I hope someone out there can shed some light on the subject for me.

 

Welcome to FTE.

First off, you didn't have manual locking hubs if you have the switch to turn on the 4x4. You had ESOF hubs. Auto hubs. You could turn the hub to lock or auto, not free. With the hubs in AUTO, you turn the switch inside the cab, then the switch powers the motor on the transfer case to engage 4x4, and the switch also sends a signal to the front hub solenoid to give the hubs a short shot of vacuum from the vacuum pump to lock the hubs. The lock on the hub is for if you have a vacuum line leak, the hub can be manually locked.

With the Warn hubs you have to get out of the truck and lock the hub manually. You don't have the auto function, unless you keep the hubs locked all the time.

 

I should have know that. Thank you for your help. From what i understand the people preffer the manual anyway. Stronger and more reliable. Thanks.

 

Not all.

 

Ok most people. I mean the auto is easier of course. Thanks again!!

 

LOL, no problem bud, just messing with you. Hang around and you will learn lots of thing and you can help us too.

 

Hey my friend, I got your back!


Stick around. Tons of stuff to learn and share here. Welcome aboard.

 

Thanks man! I new your were messin around! I just wish I freakin new the difference in the hubs. It should have been SO obvious. The vaccumm line to the hub should have given it away! Well like I said, I have never really worked on the four wheel drive stuff before. I dont use the four wheel much anyway. so I guess to having to get out and lock em in wont be to bad. Plus there is one less thing to break and spend money to fix! On my other truck I will be getting the Warn AUTO hubs.

 

so i guess the next question would be-

Took the snap ring off, slid the hubs out, greased and cleaned the splines, slid the new hubs in, put the large snap ring in, screwed the cap on each hub, and finally test drove. Being that I went from auto to manual was there anything in particular I was supposed to do? Or was it just basically as I described. Old ones out, new ones in.

 

You did this right. Be sure to plug the vacuum lines and the nipples in the hub, so water don't get in there.

 

Thanks man. My question has been answered. And I learned a little bit in the process.

 

No such thing as auto hubs from aftermarket makers. If you want autos, you have to stick with OEM parts.

 

Several companies make aftermarket hubs (Warn, Mile Marker) but they only offer manual locking hubs (lock/free). To get the convenience of in-the-cab shift on the fly then you have to go with the OEM hubs (lock/auto) since they are the only vacuum operated hubs for the SD.


It also helps prevent vacuum leaks (i.e. ventilation going to defrost) if the solenoid should fail. You will have to still operate the switch to engage the transfer case which will operate the solenoid as well and if you don't plug the vacuum lines your ventilation will always go to defrost when you go into or out of 4wd for a few minutes.

 

Well I guess this means I will getting out and locking the hubs on both of my trucks eventually. Which is fine with me. I had to use 4 wheel today due to icy roads, but its not that often.
Is there any particular certain method to plugging the lines, or is there a particular part I need that would be the best. Or is the basic screw that will squeeze in there work ok? Of course fasten the lines so they dont bounce around.

 

You can leave the lines pluged up with the vacuum lines and unplug the solenoid on the passenger firewall by the battery. If you unplug that, it will not send vacuum to the hubs.