need cab repair tips
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Palmer, AK
User gquinn8516 has some pretty good photos on his gallery 1956 Ford F100 4x2 - 56 F100 Alot of what you do is going to depend on your skills and tool inventory. There's an abundance of aftermarket sheet metal available today in the way of patch panels, floor pans etc. If you're not proficient at welding or fabrication, you'll want to practice on something besides your '56. Shelling out cash for sheet metal without the skills to install it could end in disaster. Again, fabrication and welding skills will be your deciding factor. Pictures of your cab would also benefit your cause and get more responses to your post. If you decide to repair your cab, save as much original metal as you can and get rid of the rust.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 653
From: Brentwood, TN
Lots of steps in the process of repairing a cab...any particular place you need to start? I never thought about reading an article on the subject; just find the rust, cut it out, weld in new metal and smooth and paint. 5wests has pretty much nailed it...
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: SCAL
Here is one I bookmarked from a Ford
1953 Ford F100 Cab Corner Replacement Detached Cab Photo 1
this is another, it is a ch*** but same concept
Cab Corner Repair - Classic Trucks Magazine
I am still working on my plumbing for fuel and brakes, so you will probably do your cab before mine so post your progress when you can.
1953 Ford F100 Cab Corner Replacement Detached Cab Photo 1
this is another, it is a ch*** but same concept
Cab Corner Repair - Classic Trucks Magazine
I am still working on my plumbing for fuel and brakes, so you will probably do your cab before mine so post your progress when you can.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I have posted a lot of information on rust repair on here. Do an advanced search on my user name, and "bodywork, rust repair, welding" (omit the quotes) for a week's worth of reading. If your cab is in really poor shape, it may very well be more economical to replace your cab with one in better condition, especially if you lack the fab skills or desire to learn them, and the equipment required (gas shielded mig welder ~400.00 up, angle grinder, sheet metal cutting tools, bodyman's tools) as well as a place to work. Body work can easily be the most expensive part of a build. Rust free cabs can be found, especially in the SW (and even in your neck of the woods), for reasonable prices even with shipping it long distances. Remember all 56 truck cabs are identical from the F100- F550, the big jobs are often in better shape. If you aren't fixed on having a 56, the 53-55 cabs will bolt right in place as well.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey 56,
Your best bet is to take some pics of the cab - both the problem areas & the rest. It's then easier for folks to address the issues you may face. It can be a little overwhelming to think about every little problem area. Personally I would start with the cab floor - lot's of room for error there & it all get's covered up with carpet or mats in the end.
The cab corners can be tricky but if you can afford the specific patch panels for your year it's much more straight forward. Trying to bend up metal to match the curves of the cab corners is not for the faint of heart.
So.... Let's see what you are looking at. I've got a 1950 F1 - the entire floor was replaced, all the under cab structure, Bottom 10 inches of the doors, & both rear cab corners. I had help & it took 6 months - If you can find a real solid cab with minimal rust - they go for around $500 around here - save yourself a lot of grinding unless you like that sort of thing.
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
Your best bet is to take some pics of the cab - both the problem areas & the rest. It's then easier for folks to address the issues you may face. It can be a little overwhelming to think about every little problem area. Personally I would start with the cab floor - lot's of room for error there & it all get's covered up with carpet or mats in the end.
The cab corners can be tricky but if you can afford the specific patch panels for your year it's much more straight forward. Trying to bend up metal to match the curves of the cab corners is not for the faint of heart.
So.... Let's see what you are looking at. I've got a 1950 F1 - the entire floor was replaced, all the under cab structure, Bottom 10 inches of the doors, & both rear cab corners. I had help & it took 6 months - If you can find a real solid cab with minimal rust - they go for around $500 around here - save yourself a lot of grinding unless you like that sort of thing.
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you have rust out around the bottom of the windshield (check under the windshield rubber) and/or along the front edge of the roof, it's time to find a better cab. It will cost you >1200.00 for all the patch panels that are available but you will still need to fabricate a lot of the inner structure and other panels that aren't available and buy new doors etc. so weigh that against the cost of a rust free cab, 500.00-800.00 including doors plus shipping (you can ship an entire truck across the country for ~ 1000.00 or less).
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