400 valve spring limit

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Apr 30, 2012 | 05:14 PM

scoftheoaf13

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400 valve spring limit

so i just rebuilt my 400m over the weekend and i just found out that the cam i put in it is to much for the stock valve springs i guess. the cam specs are (262/272, intake lift 0.484, exhaust lift 0.510) i was wondering what you guys think? will the stock ones be ok? if not, what do i have to look for when getting new springs?

Apr 30, 2012 | 06:36 PM

Blue and White

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I would look at the cam manufacturers recommendation. Most aftermarket cams have more lift and a faster lift rate which drives the need for slightly stiffer/better springs. I wouldn't use the stock springs if they are less than recommended.

PS: Make sure you use a high zinc oil for your flat tappet when you fire it up. Diesel engine oil works well. Rotella T is usually available in 10W30 and 15W40 at walmart.

Apr 30, 2012 | 08:08 PM

Ken(Ark)

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Quote:

Originally Posted by scoftheoaf13

You have coil bind and seat pressure to look at .

You can NOT run the motor with coil bind , your spring coils need at least .060 clearance when the valve is fully opened .

Low seat pressure will limit the rpm of the motor .

You do not want to use stronger springs than necessary on the street because the stronger the spring the shorter the life .

Apr 30, 2012 | 11:17 PM

solidrunner

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From: Seatac, Washington

Anything more than a stock cam in a 400 will break the valve springs. Ask me how I know. Just use what ever the manufacturer of your cam says to use. I had a Performer Cam in my old 400 and broke a spring on I-5 and bent a valve, it wasn't cool.

May 1, 2012 | 01:46 AM

Snowymountainman

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Doesn't take much more than factory to quickly ruin a set of factory springs. My cam was pretty conservative and we still changed springs just to be safe. Here's the cam card:
<a href="http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/snowymountainman/?action=view&current=0304121809.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/snowymountainman/0304121809.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

May 1, 2012 | 10:54 AM

scoftheoaf13

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so i should use the thicker oil when i first break the engine in?

and i just found the ones i need on summit from comp cam. just need to put them in and fire it up.

thanks, this has be helpful.

May 1, 2012 | 11:18 AM

Snowymountainman

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Quote:

Originally Posted by scoftheoaf13

so i should use the thicker oil when i first break the engine in?

and i just found the ones i need on summit from comp cam. just need to put them in and fire it up.

thanks, this has be helpful.

There are break in additives that you should be using. Zinc appears to be the most important. Tim Meyer gives you a quart of special break-in oil that you add your regular 10w-30 to for break in. On the 400, it holds 6 quarts so add 5 of 10w-30 and the quart of additive.

Here's an additive: Amazon.com: Lucas 10063 Engine Break In Oil Additive with Zinc – 16 oz. (473ml): Automotive

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May 1, 2012 | 10:41 PM

OldStyle

Rusty Roller

Joined: Oct 2011

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From: Santa Cruz Mountains

You know you can change out the springs without pulling the heads.

May 2, 2012 | 01:36 PM

#10

scoftheoaf13

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yeah i do. i have the tool. just need to order them and find time to replace them

May 2, 2012 | 05:27 PM

#11

Blue and White

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Quote:

Originally Posted by scoftheoaf13

so i should use the thicker oil when i first break the engine in?

and i just found the ones i need on summit from comp cam. just need to put them in and fire it up.

thanks, this has be helpful.

You don't need thicker oil... just high zinc oil for break in and ongoing oil changes. Regular car oil plus additive works. Diesel engine oil has the higher zinc already so no additive required at least for ongoing oil changes. For the first fill, the additive could help and won't hurt.

With a new engine, you probably want to start with 10W30. Rotella T is normally available in this viscosity at Walmart.