That curve in the intake is normal. It's how it's designed. If you look at the runners themselves, they're still all in a straight line.

Generally, when it warps, it warps away from the head (meaning runners 1 and 6 will start to curl back away from the head).

Either way, I'd highly recommend getting your intake resurfaced. You'll have a mess of problems if you don't as it'll never seal.



Your head should be alright. There may be a bit of carbon buildup inside on the valves and stuff, but running some Seafoam through it once it's up and running should clean it out.

 

Good news about the intake, I'll definitley have it resurfaced as well. Hopefully they can clean the inside of it also. It doesn't look too bad, but it would be kinda cool to have a shiny intake for my truck.

I didn't have the time to do anything lately. Sunday I pulled the exhaust pipe off as well as the muffler (I don't have a cat).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78265658@N03/7191502994/http://www.flickr.com/photos/78265658@N03/7191502994/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/78265658@N03/, on Flickr

It actually sounded kinda cool. However I want a quiet truck now so that when I leave a friends house late at night I'm not waking anybody up. Also, it screams on the highway. It's like driving a low-speed prop plane that can't fly.

I took this pic, kinda neat

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78265658@N03/7196889730/http://www.flickr.com/photos/78265658@N03/7196889730/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/78265658@N03/, on Flickr

So anyway, my main concern is where to buy these bolts. I don't know of anywhere locally that would have them for cheap. I checked online and couldn't find anything either. I have the money for them, but it seems wasteful (and annoying) to spend almost the same amount on bolts as I did on the manifolds. Any thoughts?

Oh yeah, and I'm gonna degrease the block. Looking forward to that!

 

Heh, yes. Pictures like that are a great at showing why the EFI manifolds flow just a *touch* better than the log carb manifold.

At least now you'll have a split manifold that's designed to be that way.


I don't remember if I mentioned it or not, but have you looked to swapping to studs?
It's highly recommended.

(Same pic as the previous page, but just reposting it to show the studs)



Then, get hardened nuts and washers for it. I use two regular washers and then a split washer on top of that. It's a lot of washers, but it puts the necessary strength, and then the split washer puts some extra pressure on it, which helps it to seal.





Just use your original bolts to match up the thread size for the studs. A 2" stud works pretty well.

 

Another thing I forgot to mention is the recommendation to add heat to the underside of the intake. The stock setup uses a heat riser that allows some exhaust through to keep the underside warm. Since you're removing the stock exhaust manifold, this'll no longer be there. The heat aids with fuel atomization and gives crisper acceleration. It's not necessary but is a nice addition.




I used the stock gasket that comes with the intake/exhaust as a template:





Then, seal it up REALLY well, since it'll have pressurized coolant running through it, and splice the radiator hose into it. The added heat should help quite a bit.


If you add one of these, be really, really sure to fully clean out the underside of the intake. If not, all those years of exhaust carbon buildup will be washed right into your coolant system.
I made this mistake. Fortunately, a good $5 bottle of coolant flush was able to clean it up, but my coolant was pretty muddy brown when it came out.

 

I definitely will get that component to replace the heat riser, I've read about it on another thread somewhere (glad you reminded me though!). Where can I buy that component?

Wouldn't the cost of studs, nuts, and washers exceed the cost of bolts? Also are there advantages to this other than making future service easier?

 

I had mine made at a machine shop. I don't know how much it'd cost because my brother was there and did it for free out of some scrap steel.
You could probably make one yourself if you have some tools for it. Get 1/4" plate of steel (SUPER FLAT) and drill holes through it for the bolt holes. Then, either you, or a machine shop, could put tapered holes in the middle. Their placement isn't all that important as long as they're not near the edges.
Get some pipes that match the thread and put them on. If you have a welder, even better, since you can seal it all up.


I wouldn't think so. I think I spent around $15 for all the hardware for mine. I think I paid $1 a stud, and then around $2 for the rest of the washers, nuts, bolts, etc.

It makes installation much easier, since you can 'hang' the manifolds from them. Getting 3 free moving manifolds lined up and in place is a bit more difficult than 1.

 

Haven't had a whole lot of time lately, and it's been raining non stop. Updates are coming.

However I did find a machine shop, and I'm like 75% sure I'm gonna go with your method of using studs instead of bolts. Have you used this method for the stock intake manifold? I think they are harder to get to than the Offy manifold.

 

I did, it worked really well.

 

Been making progress at a snails pace, but hey some progress is better than none. The manifold is at the machine shop now.

I also discovered something else: my thermostat housing has a giant crack. So I gotta replace that.

I have two questions regarding studs:

1 What is a good length? If I buy studs the exact same length as the bolts, then they will be too short to thread a nut on. What did you do?

2 I've never actually used studs before. How do I tighten them? They don't have heads like a bolt so how do I 'grab on' to them. All I can think of is vice grips but that would damage the threads.

 

I don't know how many thermostat housings I've broken. It seemed that for a while, about every time I'd change out my thermostat, the driver's side tab would crack, even with a brand new one. Fortunately, they're only about $15 or so.

Whenever I put a new one on, I now torque it down in increments of about 2 - 3 ft/lbs alternating driver side/passenger side. Plus, take a wire wheel to the surface to be sure there's NO gasket left.




As for the studs:

1) I use 2" studs on mine. Seems to be a really good length.

2) The center of each stud is smooth and threadless. You can easily grab on to them with vice grips here without worrying about anything. I usually just turn them in finger tight, and then use a regular pair of pliers and give them a few more turns to be sure they're snug. Put some loc-tite on them (the kind you can remove later) and then torquing down the nuts should take care of the rest. Also, you don't have to bottom the stud out for it to be plenty strong.

Be sure to have a deep socket that fits the nuts you go with. A regular socket won't fit over the stud.

 

AB--

You're a good guy, but I'm laughing b/c that c.exchange manifold you made is butt ugly. I mean, that just cracks me up! I imagine it works great, but we're talking Frankenstein here. No offense meant, AB, just a good laugh.

 

Haha, yeah, well, it cost $5 in plumbing parts so I'm not complaining.

Then, it got about 10x as ugly when it got covered in Indian Head Gasket Shellac to keep the threads from leaking. Never been known for having a pretty engine, so it felt right at home!

 

This is an awesome thread! AB you're the man!

I6, how much did it cost to have the manifold resurfaced? I'm looking at doing it soon, but cost is a factor and I'm now curious.

This thread explains why my intake man wouldn't come off yesterday! I was yanking on that sucker for 20 minutes! lol. Guess I have a few more bolts to take out to get the exhaust man off also.

 

They said the final cost depends on how long it takes to set up on the machine. He said anywhere from $50-$80 I think. They actually finished it the day it was dropped off (yesterday) but I am gonna have them make a heat riser substitute like AB has. I don't have any tools that will cut steel that thick.

They are also cleaning it for me for $20. I think this task can be done at home, but I'm sure they will do a better job than I could with carb cleaner.

When I get the manifold back I'll let you know what the exact cost was.

And yes, AB is the man. I am going to write him in on election day.

 

Sounds good to me man! Thanks!