Best mods for fuel efficiency?
Is there a difference between UK and USA diesel ? Because i seem to get fairly good compared to you guys.
On a normal drive doing between 60 - 70mph on the liemeter it says 21mpg. Calculated i get 23mpg UK MPG (we have a slightly bigger gallon compared to the USA, but still the liemeter is about correct).
When towing about 3.2 tonnes - about 7,000lb i am getting about 13mpg on the lieometer and about that maybe a touch better in UK MPG.
I'm on a 2004 4 door, 6ft bed F250 harely davidson. Not a clue what gears - 60mph is about 1800 rpm.
Gordon
My 4wd, crew, short--- avgs 16 mixed & 18 highway.
New FICM with latest program actually seems to have added about 1mpg.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
i dont usually go by the lie o meter but the one in this truck seems to be more accurate than other vehicles i have been in. I had it down to 1 mile to empty when i pulled in for diesel the other day because there is only a handful of places in the county that have it and the one in my town was out. My F-250 used to run out of fuel when it said 13 miles to empty my moms jeep usually runs out around 7 miles to empty i was getting a little nervous watching the miles tick down but i made it
Just got me a 6.0 liter back in january, '05 model year supercab, longbed. Truck has a service body and is used for my HVAC business. I find the power of the motor more than adequate for my needs. However, I am driving in the neighborhood of 2-2.5k miles a month. Gas is not cheap as we all know.
I'm averaging 15 mpg with mixed city and highway driving. I am very pleased with this number considering my truck tips the scales at just under 10,500 pounds in its current configuration. However, with the amount of miles i am driving, getting the most from every drop of petrol is important.
I am not against getting a programmer and exhaust system to better my numbers. However, that is about as far as i'm willing to go.
What would be the general consensus on the best programmer and exhaust system available to me?

10,500#. so we have a similar situation, except you probably have
ladder racks and your wind drag sucks compared to mine.
i'm probably 90-10 city/freeway, and i get 12.5 mpg composite.
freeways in socal aren't a whole lot better than city streets most
of the time.
i've got a banks IQ and economind tuner on it, and just went thru
the engine, so it's all fresh. here is what i've observed over time:
tire pressure between 40 lbs and 80 lbs has no effect on my milage.
where the banks IQ is set, has no effect on my milage. doesn't matter
if it's at #2 (fuel starved economy) or #6 (+100 hp, +150 tq)
if it's lean, you have to bury your foot deeper to get spooled up and
rolling. if it's stronger, a good squirt from the light gets you up to
city speed shortly, without the burying of the foot.
one of my customers was frothing fanatically about a product called
ethos a few years back, and i tried two quarts to see what it did.
it almost completely eliminates exhaust smoke, and doesn't change
the milage a whit. at a retail price of $40 a quart, i'll take smoke,
thank you. don't inhale. it worked for one of our presidents, i'm told.
there are fuel defoamers and filters and such that make various
claims of increasing your milage. i'm not running any of them.
entrained air in the oil i'm sure will effect combustion, if it's uneven.
but if it's evenly dispersed, i'm guessing that there is enough
flexiblity in the engine controls to accommodate that.
some folks are running CNG/diesel, feeding it off a two stage
regulator directly into the engine... the diesel fuel component
gets the burn started, and the CNG provides a cheaper source
of btu's than #2 diesel... and the stock engine controls are able
to regulate that without recalibration, so i'm guessing the small
amount of entrained air in the fuel feed is mostly of concern to
the people making devices to remove it. if i've just insulted
anyones sacred cow, forgive me. i may very well be wrong,
but industrial process flow is something i've done a fair bit of.
the gearing on my van is tall, and doesn't seem to increase the
milage at all... the vehicle is under a full load as a result of it,
whereby a shorter final gear ratio would reduce the load on the
engine, so it probably would waste fuel, as the engine wouldn't
be fully utilized, and spinning at a higher speed, lightly loaded
so to speak.
now, the banks IQ unit has a "economy" display. you punch in
what you paid at the pump, and it displays in real time, how
much you spent since you turned the rig on this morning.
it's accurate over a tank of gas, to within 2% of the money
spent.... burn up a tank of gas, and see how much it says you
spent, and on $75, it's consistently $2 low to what the pump charges.
so, it's pretty accurate. and it'll make you want to barf.
driving up beach blvd from pch to the 405 freeway, is $3.40.
you start driving differently, when you realize the difference between
a gentle start and a hard start is $0.31 every time you do it.
every.single.time.you.do.it.
these are the things, in order of importance that i have found to
offset the cost of my fuel.
don't turn on the key in the morning.
don't step down hard on the skinny pedal.
don't step down hard on the wide pedal.
take the 1,000#'s of stuff that you aren't using out of the truck.
and the single biggest fuel cost reduction i have found?
put it in the bid.
everything i know about fuel savings comes down to this:
there is no free lunch.
lighten up the van, lighten up the foot, and throw $400 on that
job 100 miles away, and enjoy the ride.
EDIT: as for smogging, i set the banks at stock, unplug the
display, and go to my friendly smog guy... he gets in, blips
the throttle, says..... ah, good, no soot... and passes the
van.
and he's a test only station. this may change in the future,
but for now, he is just looking for gross polluters.
i have to drive past orange county diesel often, and see
all the trucks with stacks and such sitting around....
that dog, very shortly, won't hunt. not in calif.





