Here's what I have: 2002 CC/SB basically stock with a set of gauges. I got the gauges first cause it seems that most people here recommend guagues to keep an eye on how things are working before heading down the mod path.

Here's my problem: max boost at WOT is 14 pounds. I understand it should be closer to 16-18 stock. I've only been getting around 12 mpg, and keep hearing about folks getting 16-20 mpg.

I want to start adding some basic mods to the truck (4" exhaust, tuner, FRX, HPX, wicked wheel), but before I do that I want to make sure I've got everything working the way it did when it came out of the factory.

I've read a ton of threads on boost problems and the two main recommendations are to check for boost leaks at the IC boots and at the up pipes (techincally not a boost leak but an exhaust leak that robs the turbo and decreases boost).

The other thing I've come across in a lot of threads are problems with the wastegate actuator.

I made up a boost leak detector last year and couldn't find any noticeable leaks in the IC boots, but I've picked up a set just to get it done when I've tear it down to replace the up pipes.

I also have looked around the up pipes and there is some soot, so those do seem to be leaking. I ordered some IH bellowed up pipes with the IC boots.

Yesterday, I was looking at Tugly's truck at the Western Washington Tech Day and he pointed out how his waste gate actuator was removed from the waste gate and just plugged. I did some research last night and that seems to be an easy way to see if the wastegate is blowing off boost too early. I pulled mine and plugged it, and when I went for a drive it was like a new truck. Suddenly the turbo is building pressure faster and max boost is now 18-20 at WOT. But even that seems low compared to what others have experienced when they disconnect the waste gate.

Plan now is to pull the turbo and replace the up pipes and IC boots. While I'm at it, I'm going to try and adjust the wastegate and reconnect it when I put everything back together.

I started spraying the up pipe bolts with PB blaster yesterday and will do that until next weekend when I hope I can find some time to start taking everything apart. I'll update this thread with pics and results.

I'm looking for any other ideas or advice anyone might have. I'm curious what downsides there are to disconnecting the wastegate. Right now it is sure a lot more fun to drive with that thing disconnected, but I don't want to screw anything up.

Norm

 

Down side mpg.Its fun, and it makes power, but all the time.Glad you found your problem. Use air with the turbo off and adjust it to move around 10 to 12psi. Use a regulator. I did mine with a fish scale. Seems to work. Have someone pull on the scale and watch for movement, when it move look at pounds. Not the right way to do it, but it worked on mine. I would say in stock tune 22# should be about right. You need to get a tuner. Then the fun starts.

Chet

 

Wish I could say I was as lucky as you. I have been fighting low boost for a while now with no resolution. I have no leaks anywhere. I can only hit 13ish lbs stock wot and 20-22 on 80e/120r. Wastegate actuator makes no difference on mine, I can even remove it and lock the wg flapper closed with no improvement.

Hopefully your up-pipes will make up the rest. Also check your intake plenums; they are known to leak.

 

Yours sounds like a tuckered-out turbo. Mine appears to have been redone about 40,000 to 50,000 miles before I bought my truck.

 

Actually let me repost my last post. 18# pounds is all most people get out of stock tune, no tuner. 22# pounds in 80e is right if you don't have a boost fooler. Sorry guys.

Chet

 

I used to think that as well. I bought my truck in October 2010 and blew up the transmission in August 2011. Once I learned chipping will help protect my new transmission, I started down the path. I was getting about 17 PSI max in stock and 20-22 with 80e. Fixing the pre-turbo exhaust leaks gave me a gradual 20 stock and a slow climb to 27 in 80e tune. Replacing the stock exhaust with a 4" gave me very snappy jumps in boost to 22 stock and 27-28 in 80e. Fixing the MAP sensor gives me a snappy 30-31 PSI in 80e with an initial puff of coal. Some tell me my turbo behaves like stock with the right tuning and my MPG is on the rise - 17.5 city/hwy to 19.5 hwy. My signature is full of links, and the very first link shows a video of my boost. Non stock air in and out, but no leaks. Everything else in the video is stock hardware with an 80e tune. I installed a new HPOP after the video, and I don't have those results yet.

 

If you want, bring the truck up to the shop again. We can remove the turbo, Install the up-pipes, rebuild the turbo (order a kit from Clay) set the WG, and re-install everything. We should be able to accomplish that on a Saturday or Sunday pretty easily.

Remember that some guys report lower boost with a WW due to the design. Now with as tuner it does seem to be able to pull higher numbers. When I was fighting surge, I was looking at the WW. Jody at DP-Tuner recommended not doing a WW and going with a Ported Housing. I know that adds $400 to to project, but I have been really happy with mine!

I think that doing the work above will set you in the right direction though!

 

I do not think its he turbo; here's why. I am currently using a non bb TN that has approx 20k on it if even that. When I put my stock turbo in(granted its got 160k afaik) I get the same results but TN has a few more lbs of boost.

I need to find a knowledgable person near Colorado Springs that is willing to help me figure it out. I have checked many times for leaks with none that I can personally find. I fixed the ones I found originally with no improvements, maybe 1lb.

Just seems really weird that a lot of people have similar issues and it's always an easy fix for them. I've tried different at actuators, red line disconnected and plugged, at locked closed with no actuator, etc with no improvements.
I am going to pick up AE to see if I can find any problems.

 

Hmmm.... I don't see a sig showing what else you've done. Intake mods? Exhaust mods? My MAP signal was grounded by the previous owner (this cheats the SES light); I removed the short and that bumped me up a bit. If you get AE, take a look at your BARO, EBPs, and MAP absolute pressure - your sensors should all show about 12 PSI at your altitude. Any significant difference between the sensors should be addressed. Take a look at the last link in my sig, there's useful stuff.

 

Tugly, what did you do to your MAP sensor. Just fix the ground.You must throw SES light with that much boost. And are we talking stock with your tuner setting or no tuner installed. Theres a difference. I'd love to get 17.5 city and 19 hwy. My CC DWR 4.10 setup just won't get there. Never had an AE on mine, would like to see it. Mit help a little. Mine runs great just to big I think, oh it is 4x4 also.
Chet

 

Thanks Ken. I could definetly use the help. Let me know when would be a good day to come up.

I've been leaning toward the ATS ported housing instead of a wicked wheel. I'll probably wait to do that until after I get my exhaust and tuner.

Norm

 

I had the truck for about 18 months and I was finding mods here and there that I didn't know to look for. I discovered the MAP sensor mod because somebody complained about the SES light popping up on heavy boost, and I'm thinking "Uuuhh?? What SES light?" Diane at DP-Tuner chimed in with the details as to why this happens: The voltage goes to the PCM, but the chip converts the voltage into a PSI reading and the reading was below the alarm threshold (or something close to that, if I understood correctly). There is a feature in the PCM that has a default voltage if the map sensor is dead or missing, so the truck can still run - but at reduced fueling/power.

I've looked at the MAP reading with my AE before and I could see the default PSI (thinking the chip did that), but I never thought to look at the voltage. It took me all of a minute to discover the signal wire from the MAP sensor had a ground wire spliced in by the previous owner (to prevent SES light). I have since learned this is a common mod when canned chips are installed. I cut that ground splice and now the chip is seeing more air, and the chip gives more fuel - a lot of it when I want. My power jumped, as did my fuel economy. I used to get 16 city/hwy with long runs of 65 MPH about 19.5 MPG on the 80e. I now get 17.5 MPG city/hwy, but I have not yet had long runs with CC at 65 to see how long "Stinky's" new legs are with the 80e.

I still get 22 PSI boost on stock, but 80e went from 27 PSI boost at WOT to 30/31 PSI boost WOT - and I can feel it. I also get very frequent visits from the SES light - it doesn't take a lot of coaxing from the right foot for the testostometer to go into convulsions. So I have a flash in my face... that's just the lightning to the thunder.

 

Do you already have your up-pipes? If so, we could probably pull the turbo and work it then. I will advise you that removing the housing is much easier out of the truck, than in the truck! The WG actuator can be a pain to remove in the truck. Not hard, just a little fickle!

 

It does not appear that I can have a sig.

Here is what I have:
03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)

DP Tuner F5 w/guage style switch. No Start, Stock, 1200RPM high idle, 60 tow, 80 econo, 120 race

Autometer Nexus Guages (TT,FP,BP,EGT), 4"MBRP Exhaust w/muffler. DieselSite Coolant filtration system,203* t-stat and billet housing, AIH delete, DieselSite HP X-Over line. Slotted Cryo rotors F&R with Hawk LTS pads. K&N Intake tube w/ (Baldwin PA2818 $20) IH Bellowed up-pipes; Turbonetics Turbo(non-BB), Foil Delete, BTS VB, ITP In-Tank mod & Prepump Filter kit. RR FRx w/rebuilt FPR, Boots/Clamps, New IPR 4-20-12, ('06) Tranny Cooler & PS Cooler.


I also wanted to ask about your boost vid. Did you let off when you got close to max temps? I will have to go for a nother run, but My boost is nothing like that from what I recall. I would say 10 lbs less. I get under 20, but peaks of 20-22 on 80e. Most I ever got was 25 lbs peak.

I live at 6500ft. I will also check out that link you mentioned. I appreciate you trying to help. I looked for exhaust leaks again today and saw no soot anywhere. Maybe this weekend I will boost leak test again for the 5th or so time

It would be nice to try a known good turbo; I just find it hard to think that both of mine are bad. I do not get smoke like they are gone, impellers look good, play I believe is normal. No bad nicks/chips, etc.
I imagine if I had a boost leak causing this much of a loss; It would be easily noticeable.

Just in case; I just replaced the IPR, ICP, cleaned ebps/tube (they were not bad). fuel pressure is 59-61 at idle and normal driving. It will drop to 50 lbs @ WOT. New FPR and FRx. Fuel pump is not oem but about a yr old.

I think thats about all I can really say without testing with AE. I can read codes with superchips programmer and nothing comes up. I used to be able to set off the SES light, but do not remember the last time I saw that. I have fixed any boost/exhaust leaks I found.

Thanks again

 

No smoke, eh? Not even a coal dusting on the drop of the hammer? Smoke should be the hardest thing to avoid at that altitude. A clean burn on the foot-fall is a symptom of lack of fuel in the tune. A bad sensor can cause this, a weak fuel pump (but you have a new one), a clogged fuel filter, a tune that needs dialing to mods since the tune was installed, a weak HPOP, plus I'd bet others can come up with more.

As for my runs, I don't race or even push it hard (note the MPG)... but I have to do WOT runs to troubleshoot some things going on with my configuration. A few seconds of hot air shouldn't cause issues (I've been told), but I draw the line on EGT alarms.