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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 10:20 AM
  #31  
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In my opinion, if you get yourself into another 6.0L of late '06 (the commonized engines with the 20mm cylinder head and block dowels) that is freshened up with the STC fitting and rail plugs replaced, you should be good to go. I can't imagine why anyone would want to swap in a Cummins engine, which would entail A LOT of fabrication work to get up and running, only to end up with a vehicle that has been "cut up". This is especially since you use this vehicle as a daily driver.

A "project" on the other hand......
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #32  
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I've used mc 1540. Never used rotella. Yeah, not sure I'm goin the cummins route. They have the adapter plates and most of the fab parts available. But, what, or where would I go if I ever do need a shop, even tho I haven't been n one so far. Just got off the phone with south bend clutch, and Blackwater. Blackwater said they would warranty using my existing studs in the new engine. I'm not sure how I feel bout that. If they use my studs ,,,, 4k for the engine shipped, and 900 for the Kevlar ceramic clutch. Wow. That's not bad. I bought this truck with 85k on her. Wonder how long she will last for me from the start. Should I change the oil at,,,, say. 300 mi, then 500 , then 1000. I'm not worried about the cost of oil. Dang it's gonna take me a minute to break my 582 mark again.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #33  
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Are there any tips or tricks to know about installing the front n rear covers. I've never done that before. I have the service manual and will be printing everything I can to read, but any tips would be greatly appreciated. I remember reading something about the wear ring something or other. Some plastic piece on the crank or cam bearing.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #34  
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Here is big red I always refer to.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #35  
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Check that out. It's a 04 6 spd also.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 12:59 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Are there any tips or tricks to know about installing the front n rear covers. I've never done that before. I have the service manual and will be printing everything I can to read, but any tips would be greatly appreciated. I remember reading something about the wear ring something or other. Some plastic piece on the crank or cam bearing.
Removing/installing the front and rear engine covers is pretty straightforward. I'm not too sure as to why you are interested in knowing the procedure as such. Just make sure the engine is out, and mounted on an engine stand that is supporting the block from the left and right engine mount locations of the block. You will remove them when the intake manifold and high pressure oil pump cover is removed. Installation will mandate installation of new front and rear crank seals using the proper front and rear crank seal/wear ring installer tools. And yes, the rear main seal is updated, so you would need to refer to the installation instructions outlined in the 2009 and newer E-Series workshop manual for the updated procedure.

Are you actually thinking of rebuilding it yourself?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
I've used mc 1540. Never used rotella. Yeah, not sure I'm goin the cummins route. They have the adapter plates and most of the fab parts available. But, what, or where would I go if I ever do need a shop, even tho I haven't been n one so far. Just got off the phone with south bend clutch, and Blackwater. Blackwater said they would warranty using my existing studs in the new engine. I'm not sure how I feel bout that. If they use my studs ,,,, 4k for the engine shipped, and 900 for the Kevlar ceramic clutch. Wow. That's not bad. I bought this truck with 85k on her. Wonder how long she will last for me from the start. Should I change the oil at,,,, say. 300 mi, then 500 , then 1000. I'm not worried about the cost of oil. Dang it's gonna take me a minute to break my 582 mark again.
And the reason highlighted in bold red is exactly why going with a Cummins swap would not be a very feasible idea in my opinion. Especially not on a daily driven type vehicle like yours. Putting on the kind of mileage you do, you are far better off just leaving it the way it is from the factory, should you ever break down in a location that is far from your hometown, needing repairs.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #38  
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Yeah, I'm on board with that.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #39  
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Btw. Any pointers on getting the front n rear covers installed properly. Is it a specific detailed procedure. Just trying to get a feel for what I'm in for. I forgot to ask Blackwater if the lube oil pump is included.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
No. It'd b about 12. I might not do it. But I'd b an idiot to put a 3rd 6.0 in it if I only get 500 k outta the new one. It might sound like a lot. But just to give an idea. Me n my wife ran 1100 mi last week without even stopping the wheels. My truck prob only has about 150 k mi worth of normal ownership. Cold starts I mean. I prob do 5-7 cold starts a month. I have first hand experience on the longevity of other makes.
Originally Posted by run6.0run
The only way I would put a cummins in here is if its a fresh rebuilt one. Why an idiot btw. The 04 I'm going to get had a new crate engine from ford installed for 11+k. Oh we'll. I'm not trying to b a basher of anything. Everything breaks. But can't help but notice there arent any v engines in otr tractors. Which is what I'm using this as. But if mentioning getting a tractor is on anyone's tongue,,, yeah right. Not for this operation. It's not the money btw. That's not the issue. It's that my wife is here with me stuck and we have a schedule to keep. Like our own bed was sounding pretty good today. Good enough that I would prob give 15 right now to b at home with the truck fine. Oh well
I think it is foolish for the reasons mentioned already. How much down time are you going to have putting a Cumapart in it? The I6 is not without its faults as well.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #41  
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Ok. I got ur point cmk. Moving on now. Mchan, no I'm not rebuilding it, just installing a reman long block from Blackstone. It doesn't come with the front n rear covers installed. Not sure if the crank seals are installed in the covers, or in the block. If Blackwater sends it with the seals installed then I'm good. But I don't have the installer tools for the seals. The wear ring has me wondering also. Is there a link to the 09 workshop manual? Mine is an 06. I can't wait to get in it so I can see what ur talking about. I'm gonna call tomorrow n see if the wear rings n seals are installed by Blackwater. Isn't the rear main a two peice seal? I just remember reading that I should b very careful when removing the front cover so the wear ring isn't pulled out with the sealant. Am I way out n left field???
 
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 11:36 PM
  #42  
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What is the warranty on the new motor?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 07:24 AM
  #43  
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2 yr 50 k. I sure wish it was unlimited mileage. The 50 k really has me worried. I might load the engine up before ordering Blackwater and take it to a local engine shop that I used to rebuild my boat engine. I might go the rebuild route. I'm just scatterbrained right now. The only thing I know is that engine is coming out. I sure hope something gets back in quick. Lol.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 07:36 AM
  #44  
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I'm kinda freaking out about the crank seals n wear rings. Maybe my local tool shop will have the installer and removal tools, but not sure yet. My service manual says it takes 4 different tools. Front installer, front remover, rear installer, n a rear remover. Crap that sux. Has anyone successfully done a Blackwater engine without the special tools? I guess I'm gonna need 2 engine stands so I can remove from the old n go straight to the new, while its fresh in my mind.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #45  
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Not sure why you need front and rear removers. Nothing to getting those seals out. Installation is another matter.
 
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