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So the good news is the hard stuff is done----good on ya so far!
This is indeed a good time to do all the maintenance like checking your rubber parts up above--more than a few times we're read of performance issues due a bad connection or hose that's gone unnoticed for a while.
Trans fluid I think the Mercon V is pretty common and backwards compatible for our "older" vehicles---someone here will have a more specific suggestion I'm sure. During my first trans fluid/filter change I added a drain plug for the next time out---about $8 from NAPA (or anywhere) some JB Weld (or epoxy) to keep the main part leak-free and fluid changes aren't messy any longer.
Keep in mind you can drain the torque converter too----not a bad idea.
Thanks everybody for your help! All is good and have been driving the truck since monday. It runs much better and far quieter since the repair and i even got the power back i so desperately needed on the expressway. Big difference. Now i gotta fix the holes in the brand new exhaust system. before i did the manifold, i paid an exhaust shop to install a new muffler and tailpipe. He cut 5 inches behind the torpedo cat and ran 3" to a magnaflow and then 3" out the tailpipe. When he welded the pipe to the existing by the cat, he left more than a 1/4 hole at the top of the pipe. Theres also a hole where he welded the tail pipe on to the muffler. Im no welder but these welds look very sloppy. I took it back to him but he refused to fix it. He said that the holes are good to let water out of. I told him, "5 inches from the cat at the top of the pipe?!". Anyway, theres a ton of pressure coming out of it and im sure its not good so maybe some jb weld or something. I think he was pissed about having to work on the ground being that he couldn't lift the truck. Normally i would argue more about it in efforts to get it fixed right but just got fed up with him and got the heck outa there. Either way, ill fix it.
Thanks everybody for your help! All is good and have been driving the truck since monday. It runs much better and far quieter since the repair and i even got the power back i so desperately needed on the expressway. Big difference. Now i gotta fix the holes in the brand new exhaust system. before i did the manifold, i paid an exhaust shop to install a new muffler and tailpipe. He cut 5 inches behind the torpedo cat and ran 3" to a magnaflow and then 3" out the tailpipe. When he welded the pipe to the existing by the cat, he left more than a 1/4 hole at the top of the pipe. Theres also a hole where he welded the tail pipe on to the muffler. Im no welder but these welds look very sloppy. I took it back to him but he refused to fix it. He said that the holes are good to let water out of. I told him, "5 inches from the cat at the top of the pipe?!". Anyway, theres a ton of pressure coming out of it and im sure its not good so maybe some jb weld or something. I think he was pissed about having to work on the ground being that he couldn't lift the truck. Normally i would argue more about it in efforts to get it fixed right but just got fed up with him and got the heck outa there. Either way, ill fix it.
Thanks again
Exhaust pipes get hot that close to the cat. JB weld will live a short life there. I recommend taking it down and taking it to a legitimate welder or exhaust shop. It will cost a bit of money but it will come out better. That's a pretty crummy exhaust shop if they wont take down the exhaust to do a proper install...
have someone qualified weld it up. many welding shops don't like doing exhaust, and many exhaust shops are half-a$$ welders. take it to another shop that does exhaust, explain your situation, and they'll take care of you.
but before that, take pics of his poor work and report him to the better business beareu (BBB).
Ya, I have to agree, if this was a regular shop (not a fly by nighter) then not only do you have poor workmanship to report, but also a potential killer. Definate safety issue as leaking exhaust gases can seep into the passenger compartment.
That is why it is required to have the exhaust exit behind or as close behind the passenger area(s) as possible. (by law on new vehicles)
I didnt know that about the jb weld. Glad i was told. This shoddy guy was the only one i could find that had the high doors to get my truck in on the lift. Unfortunately when he went to lift it it, the truck didn't budge. It might have been 15000 lbs at the time. Its also over 11' tall with my ladders and other equiptment on top. I think he was reluctant to do the work in the first place all together. I dont see what the big deal is. You can sit down upright under the truck with plenty of room. I think i will take it into my general welder because i need a new step bumper fabricated anyway. Mines all dented up from work.. think i will opt for 3/16 or 1/4 over the original 1/8 diamond plate steel. pretty flimsy.. Anyway, im getting off the subject! thanks again
have someone qualified weld it up. many welding shops don't like doing exhaust, and many exhaust shops are half-a$$ welders. take it to another shop that does exhaust, explain your situation, and they'll take care of you.
but before that, take pics of his poor work and report him to the better business beareu (BBB).
Once worked with a former employee of the quickie/cheap outfits---he told me straight out when out of welding rod (acety/oxy) they used coat hangers the uniform guys left behind! Problem was this became more common, at least the 6 months or so he worked there.
JWA, the part i find surprising about your last post is the fact that the shops welded by torch instead of with a MIG, as the MIG is much faster and nearly idiot-proof once its set up right. otherwise, that sounds right in line with the quality of your chain stores
Oh yeah Josh---mind you this was some years ago and even though they had some decent electric welding equipment the general attitude of that shop was simply getting the job finished, paid for and worry about everything else later on.
I'd like to think even the low buck quickie shops have learned doing the job well the first time reduces the level or re-work done under their "lifetime warranty" promises. Its been so long since I've had to place my trust in such places I have no idea how the bulk of them really operate these days.
On that note so far I've owned or regularly driven three E250's none later than 2000 and the exhaust systems are somewhat amazing. Nothing has required replacing, it all looks to be very good condition even now. I'm almost convinced if replacing any part is necessary I'll use nothing but OEM or something equal. The cost seems high until we factor in the longevity.
My 95 project van (loosely called, it needs nothing but maintenance and mods) is rocking its factory exhaust. Headers back its in good shape. Small header leak. But, its CREEPY good. 147,000 miles, 17 years, and the header flanges, cats, muffler, everything is in good shape. The y pipe, cats, and tubing are not corroded at all, still some shine. The muffler only has spots of surface rust starting.
I MIGHT consider some reworking to eliminate the AIR and multiple cat configuration, and improve flow some more, but its really almost pointless so long as my cats are in good shape (testing Wednesday.)
First time I priced the muffler and tail pipe assembly was blown away with a $650 MSRP----this was before I had any experience with the new E-Series. Time went on and having crawled under more than a few and its the same thing---creepy good condition years and years later!
If it provided any MPG or performance improvement I'd certainly consider a swap too but after reading in the V10 and V8 forums there doesn't seem to be a lot to do for a normal work van. Mike at 5 Star Tunings has a few mods he suggests but mostly on the V10's and only then on certain years. For the most part Ford has it right.
All this of course assumes the cats and everything else have been properly maintained along the way.