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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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Taking longer to start

Just recently my truck is taking longer to start cold or warm. Used to take 3-4 seconds of cranking. Now it is longer and kind of stumbles in between wanting to fire up.

Tested gp's and relay, okay. Checked HPOP level, okay. Disconnected the ICP, no change. Batteries are 3 yrs old and okay. Newish starter.

What else can I check / try ?

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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fuel filter clean? fuel pressure ok?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 08:51 PM
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New filter. I haven't checked fuel pressure.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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Clean all battery and starter connections. And have the batteries tested out of the truck.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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Check the screen inside the filter bowl. they get boogered up with crud and make your truck run crappy.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken_C
Check the screen inside the filter bowl. they get boogered up with crud and make your truck run crappy.
Thanks, I rebuilt the fuel bowl six months ago.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fordpride
Clean all battery and starter connections. And have the batteries tested out of the truck.
I'll get them tested tomorrow.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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Remember to test each one by it self
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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newish starter? How new? Drop it and test it...
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Batts and starter okay. Fuel pressure at 60psi.

I think it might be the DMF (I believe it is the original, could be wrong, I'm the 3rd owner, 160K) and it has been giving some symptoms of age lately also. Gonna go pull the inspection cover now.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 03:50 PM
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I don't think a problem with the DMF would affect the way it starts, mine made me think the engine had a miss. I didn't know anything about the DMF but mine started and ran pretty good just had the shakes. Won't hurt to check it out, i wish i would have checked mine sooner. The DMS seems to give all kinds of weird symptoms.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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There is no way to test a starter. You can do the same test that the parts store does with a batt. and jumper cables. A bad starter will spin it's azz off with no load on it
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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Mike, it was tested under load with some sort of scan type tool. Same tool tested the batts. My problem is getting worse.

I beginning to wonder if I have a injector or two going south.

Possible it is the CPS ? Pickup a new CPS at the dealer ? I read the others are crap.

BTW, I tried running the EEC test, no go. The PCM has been reprogrammed. Is there an economical scan tool that I can grab ?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nomad221
Is there an economical scan tool that I can grab ?
Depending on your budget, you may want to just grab a Aeroforce Scangauge. They can view diagnostic trouble codes, and you can monitor a whole bunch of other stuff, too. They can also perform injector buzz tests and cylinder contribution tests.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by nomad221
Just recently my truck is taking longer to start cold or warm. Used to take 3-4 seconds of cranking. Now it is longer and kind of stumbles in between wanting to fire up.

Tested gp's and relay, okay. Checked HPOP level, okay. Disconnected the ICP, no change. Batteries are 3 yrs old and okay. Newish starter.

What else can I check / try ?

Thanks
Just had a thought. (I know. right? ) when you unplugged the ICP sensor was there oil in the electrical connection? might need a new one. That might have something to do with it.
 
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