when you said that you found that Oring in there my thoughts were I wondered if it could have been Partly Blocking/plugging the port to a Supply line to one of the Heads or somthing

 

The oring was kind of just laying up against the side of the filter housing but I dont know if the filter was actually on it or not as you cant see in there til the filter is removed but just wondering where it came from. Had the filter out when I did the blue spring upgrade but dont remember having any orings near it. If anyone knows the location of tthe oring then please chime in. A quick question to you Benny, why would the ficm firing have anything to do with the results of the bubble test. Just trying to learn as much as I can. I understand the pump to keep it from filling up the housing but the rest just wondering.

 

the way it sounds at this point Im thinking it might be something else besides an injector
Any injector problem and it would likely be running rough.

Since it runs good and white smoke is really the only concern here makes me think maybe a Pinhole leak in the EGR Cooler or even a bad turbo seal letting oil in the down pipe

still wouldnt hurt to pull those couple fuses and check for bubbles in filter housing but again should run Bad with an injector issue

pulling the EGR Valve would be my next step park truck nose down run a minute or 2 like that then pull valve after it cools a few

 

Ill check the EGR for wetness tomorrow. One thing though, when my orings went out the first time, I never got a cel, was running fine and I changed the oil and on the way back home from a warm up drive it started knocking and hydrolocked when I parked it. Still didnt throw a cel. One injector was missing the copper washer and there were several bad orings among 2 other injectors. But before that it had started smoking like it is now, that was my only indication of something going on but was still running fine at that point. Just drove down the road and bam. No warning. Now getting the smoke again so was just hopefully thinking it could be orings on the drivers side since I havent even had those out yet. I know I cant keep dodging the bullet but Im trying. I so hope my EGR is dry.

 

with the FICM Firing the injectors the Flow of the fuel may push the air that was introduced in the fuel supply side during the Exhaust stroke back threw the injector and purge it that way

with the Ficm disabled all injectors should be closed with a Bad injector it wont be closed Fulley and air will be forced into the fuel supply and eventually make its way to the Upper fuel filetr housing

Once you see the air bubbles you know an injector is bad. But the air bubbles must come from one of the 2 lines that supply the Heads

If you get air bubbles in the line that comes from the fuel pump then you know its sucking air somewhere between the Tank and upper fuel filter usually from a bad oring somewhere

 

Well I hope whatever it is that its nothing major. The truck is running good and dont wont to instill a lack of confidence in the missus since its basically her truck. If I can rule out coolant that will be a load off my mind. Thanks for all the info and suggestions.

 

I see what you Mean here

Basicaly there are Several ways an injector can and will Fail

1.The spool valve inside the injector may not open/close injevtor properly this lets the air bubbles in
2.the inject Plunger could hang up due to the fact its side load plunger driven
3.the copper combustion ring burns up either from to much fuel going in or the injector hold down not torqed properly thus injector isnt seated right copper washer burns up and then the orings that seal fuel rail to inject burn up thus it DUMPS RAW fuel into cylinder at 50-65psi. this is probably how your failed before from the sound of it
4.This one not really from bad inject but if the Orings midway on the inject wear fuel will push up into the valve covers this will cause Low fuel press and will cause fuel delution of the oil

 

Hows your ECT vs EOT spread?????

 

My spread stays at about 8 degrees. Normally my drive to work ( about 30 miles one way) my ECT will get to about 208ish and then fall back down to about 198-202 and my EOT gets to about 214-216 then drops down accordingly. Now driving in town my ECT's fall to about 192-195 with the EOT about 6-8 above. Now it has hit 9-10 but drops right back down so Id say sustained stays 6-8. This is driving 70mph on some slight hills and weve had daily temps in the high 80s to low 90s. And on your comment on the orings, I was wondering how the injector would seat without the copper washer which was missing in action.

 

Ok, one quick note here. I didn't read through all that you and Benny have gone though so far, but thought this is worth bringing up.

To check for bubbles in the fuel bowl, or to do the ballon test for that matter. You don't need to pull any fuses. Just leave the keys out of the truck (ie...don't turn it fwd), there is a yellow wire with green trace (might be wrong on the colors) right above the vacumm pump, it has a squeeze and pull type quick conect, disconnect it, use the end that goes down to the starter and jump it at the Possitive battery post on the passenger side. This will engauge the starter without turning on any of the electrical. This way you don't have to worry about the truck starting while testing, or the fuel pump coming on. The prong on the inside of the wire is just long enough you can get it to touch the positive stud that stick up on the factory cable.

This is how I do ballon test and such. Very quick to do.

 

Well I went and checked for bubbles again doing the wire to the battery method and no bubbles. But first I checked my trans, oil and coolant cold soak temps and the oil was 1.8 degrees cooler than the coolant and the tranny was 3 degrees cooler than the coolant. Now I dont know the plus or minus factor after a 12 hour cold soak but I entered the alternate EOT after making a loop in the pasture and it put the EOT at 26 degrees higher than the ECT. Now this was taken after cranking up, coolant at cold soak 69 degrees, started driving when it reached 90 degrees (which was only a minute) then pulled down in the pasture(pretty much letting the truck pull itself) really just through the gate so I could back up on a slope to check the egr, by this time the coolant was 112 and the EOT with original setting was about 98 and when I entered the alternate EOT code it jumped to 138 degrees so Im taking that my original reading was correct because I cant see the oil heating up that fast in 5 minutes. Just give me some relief..lol. Now Im gonna check the EGR for wetness in about 15 minutes.

 

Well I pulled the EGR valve and checked it out. It is oily but I wouldnt say wet other than black oily stuff. I scraped some out with my finger and it didnt smell like coolant. I took a couple of pics but my phone and zune are being ornary so dont know when Ill get to post them. Also dont know how long it is supposed to cool down before its checked so hopefully I didnt do it too soon. Also it was parked nose down but not just at a steep steep incline so I hope that was done right. May have to retest but I gotta get ready for work now. Thanks for the feedback guys. Maybe Ill get some pics up soon.

 

One of my injectors was stuck open, one was weak. No CEL or wrench. Enough smoke to make mosquito foggers jealous.

Now to hunt down why they failed, since each one barely had 3000 miles. I'm thinking either plugged fuel filter(s) or weak pump.

-blaine

 

Filter change good Idea

Also the Blue Spring for the FPR

 

You want your ECT & EOT & TFT & fWT to be within 1-2 degres of one another after that 12 hour cold soak should be close to Ambeint temp so use the overhead Lie-o-meter to kinda set the BAse number

Keep in mind the fluid temps stabilize Faster during winter vs Slower in summer Hotter weather so IDK what ambeint is where you at but keep that in mind sounds little warmer there

as far as the EGR Valve if there isnt any coolant in the chamber it sounds OK the oily black stuff if its not from coolant then its from Improper combustion

Oiley Black EGR Valve is usually from a BAd thermostat if it runs cold you dont get good combustion. You want to see DRY Black Soot on it

On your Oring question the copper combustion one being MIA thats not nessaserly the case. If it was Not installed when the injector was installed you would have been LUCKEY to make it 20 miles like that if even that Far.
The Copper washer gets Burned up from to much fuel or the Holddown backing off or even junk down in there and the injector dont seat right and then Burns it up


Good Call on that wire Scotty didnt think of doing it like that reps given