body work... bondo?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
body work... bondo?
I'm doing some body work getting the Bronco ready to be painted. I'm fixing dents, rust spots ect.... using Bondo.
I'ved used it before on a previous vehicle, but I sold the vehicle after about a year and didn't get to see if the Bondo actually held for a long time. I've heard stories about people fixing panels and then the Bondo just falls off one day. Should I be concerned about this? Or is is this a false story? Or can this actually happen if you aren't careful?
I'm doing everything correctly and I will be keeping the Bronco for a long time. I want the paint job, and Bondo fixes, to last.
Brian
I'ved used it before on a previous vehicle, but I sold the vehicle after about a year and didn't get to see if the Bondo actually held for a long time. I've heard stories about people fixing panels and then the Bondo just falls off one day. Should I be concerned about this? Or is is this a false story? Or can this actually happen if you aren't careful?
I'm doing everything correctly and I will be keeping the Bronco for a long time. I want the paint job, and Bondo fixes, to last.
Brian
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
body work... bondo?
i would say that welding up the bad spots would be a better solution then bondo. since your rig is a 4x4 and will be driven as such , all that bouncen around could cause it to not hold very well down the road. personally i feel bondo is a bandaid not a fix.
im sure someone else might have another opinion.
good luck, like to see some pics when your done
later
im sure someone else might have another opinion.
good luck, like to see some pics when your done
later
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,195
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Texas
body work... bondo?
If you go to a quality body shop and talk to a painter, He might point you in the right direction.
What I have been told that if you clean the surface properly, and use high quality bondo it should stick with no problem.
Just as a note, you should bend and beat the metal as strait as possible so that you only have to use a very thin layer of bondo on the body. Less bondo, less weight added, less chance of it breaking loose.
Just my .02 cents
Good luck
What I have been told that if you clean the surface properly, and use high quality bondo it should stick with no problem.
Just as a note, you should bend and beat the metal as strait as possible so that you only have to use a very thin layer of bondo on the body. Less bondo, less weight added, less chance of it breaking loose.
Just my .02 cents
Good luck
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
body work... bondo?
The real trick to making filler stick is four things:
1. the area must be very clean, I use acetone and wipe several times.
2. it should be a thin as you can get it, work the metal as much as you can to get to where the filler will be thin
3. get a sharp scratching awl and make deep cross hatches in the metal or whatever surface your putting the filler on. Even scratch the filler when you apply filler over filler.
4. push the filler VERY hard into the scratches when you start working with a batch of filler, then go light to get the shape you need.
I used Rage filler rather than 'bondo' as it's supposed to be lighter and smoother. It costs about twice what 'bondo' does.
The cross-hatch scratches are very important and should be done after you hit it with about 60 grit paper to get the best tooth.
1. the area must be very clean, I use acetone and wipe several times.
2. it should be a thin as you can get it, work the metal as much as you can to get to where the filler will be thin
3. get a sharp scratching awl and make deep cross hatches in the metal or whatever surface your putting the filler on. Even scratch the filler when you apply filler over filler.
4. push the filler VERY hard into the scratches when you start working with a batch of filler, then go light to get the shape you need.
I used Rage filler rather than 'bondo' as it's supposed to be lighter and smoother. It costs about twice what 'bondo' does.
The cross-hatch scratches are very important and should be done after you hit it with about 60 grit paper to get the best tooth.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 252
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From: Vancouver - BC - Canada
body work... bondo?
I would weld the problem areas, but if you want to use a filler... Use somthing called "Metal Glaze".
It is the strongest stuff you can get. I know of people who have used it and were able to drill a hole in it, then TAP IT !!!! If you decide to use it, be sure to apply it on one thin layer at a time because if you mound it on too much, it will take for ever to sand.
You will also need a ton of sand paper.
This is the stuff to use if you dont want it to fall out in 2 years.
Randall
It is the strongest stuff you can get. I know of people who have used it and were able to drill a hole in it, then TAP IT !!!! If you decide to use it, be sure to apply it on one thin layer at a time because if you mound it on too much, it will take for ever to sand.
You will also need a ton of sand paper.
This is the stuff to use if you dont want it to fall out in 2 years.
Randall
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
body work... bondo?
Where can I get "Metal Glaze"??? Autoshops? Or specialty store or online? I don't have any holes that would need welding.... besides the cracks on the drip rail which everyone has. I'm just going to try and put a mesh over that and something(bondo or this metal glaze) over it. I'm mainly just sanding rusted spots and fixing dents.... drilling, popping out, and then smoothing.
I used something called liquid metal at first in the cracks but it was worthless.
Brian
I used something called liquid metal at first in the cracks but it was worthless.
Brian
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 252
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From: Vancouver - BC - Canada
body work... bondo?
What do you mean about mesh?? don't do anything like a fiberglass matting... you will make more problems for your self. If you have a digital camera, take a bunch of photos and I will tell you the best way to go about it.
Most auto body and paint supply stores will have it.
Check out the website for Metal Glaze " HERE "
And other Metal Works Products " HERE
I think the Glaze is just for a fine top layer, but some people use it as filler. I would try the "METAL-2-METAL" filler if you need to fill any major holes. Click " HERE for the "METAL-2-METAL" page.
Randall
Most auto body and paint supply stores will have it.
Check out the website for Metal Glaze " HERE "
And other Metal Works Products " HERE
I think the Glaze is just for a fine top layer, but some people use it as filler. I would try the "METAL-2-METAL" filler if you need to fill any major holes. Click " HERE for the "METAL-2-METAL" page.
Randall
Last edited by randallc; May 4, 2003 at 01:02 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
body work... bondo?
I don't have a digital camera unfortunately. I don't need anything for holes... just to smooth out dents and fill the holes I had to drill to pull the dent out. And I only have 3 dents that I'll be doing this to and none are very big. 2 are the size of the palm of your hand and 1 is on the corner at the back... it will be the hardest one to fix b/c it's dented and rusted on the rounded edge.... I think the back bumper got slammed into it in the past.
The wire mesh I'm talking about has sticky tape on one side. It covers small holes and then you can bondo over it or whatever. I'm only going to use it on the cracks.
Brian
The wire mesh I'm talking about has sticky tape on one side. It covers small holes and then you can bondo over it or whatever. I'm only going to use it on the cracks.
Brian
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 252
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From: Vancouver - BC - Canada
body work... bondo?
The mesh will weaken before the filler will and will cause problems.
Filler will be good eneough to fill the holes etc... Don't use any mesh, you will have more problems down the road. I would go into a body shop and ask them what you should do, or ask someone you know if they know a body man and ask him exactly what to do.
Randall
Filler will be good eneough to fill the holes etc... Don't use any mesh, you will have more problems down the road. I would go into a body shop and ask them what you should do, or ask someone you know if they know a body man and ask him exactly what to do.
Randall
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20
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From: Cochranton,PA
body work... bondo?
If you are going to fill holes without welding I would suggest using a fiber-filled filler.It is waterproof and will last longer than Bondo.
You can then finish it off with the "Bondo" type filler and finally fill any pin holes with a polyester type 2 part glazing putty.
HTH
Also use of a guide coat will help to ensure smoothness.
You can then finish it off with the "Bondo" type filler and finally fill any pin holes with a polyester type 2 part glazing putty.
HTH
Also use of a guide coat will help to ensure smoothness.
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