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Okay so i got the front end bolted in and everything is ready to get welded up buutttt im wondering what EXACTLY you fellas are doing to connect the steering shaft from the crown vic rack to the old ragjoint mount. THANKS!
There is info about this. Let me go look around. The D is 3/4". I would use double D for the shaft. Personally I used the lower section of the CV shaft. The part with the offset u-joints. I then took a straight splice that was 3/4" splined on 1 end. That can be pressed onto the CV shaft & then welded. It is a tight fit but it will press on without much effort. Well at least for a 30+ tn press. From there you will be using the Double D shaft. Your straight through splice needs to be Double D on this end. The rag joint goes in the trash. The u-joint you need for the end of the column will be 3/4"x36 spline on the column end & the Double D on the other. Cut your mid shaft & put it all together. I had mine all in the truck before final welding extending the CV joint all the way. This way you have room to collapse it to disconnect in the future without pulling the column or rack.
If you slide your column deeper into the engine compartment you can get by with just a u-joint. I can not attest to this but as I understand it the joint you need for the CV end is 3/4" V. The best price I found on these pieces was right here local for me. Providing you do not want to go with all polished pieces. You can contact them here. Automotion Race Cars If memory serves me right I paid under $100 for all I needed. The u-joint was in the $45 range. Best I could find online was something like $89 for that piece alone.
I would highly recommend crossdrilling your column for a bolt to pass through or at least for the set screw to go down into. Hope that helps you guys a bit.
You will also need 2 Edelmann 271300, adapts 3/16 SAE flare to male 10mm bubble flare.
This pic is not my truck. This guy moved his column lower taking up the difference in the middle.
Here is a couple pics of my steering shaft.
These pics are with the 302. Things a bit tighter with the 460
My reasoning for saying Double D is that it is readily available. I used round tube stock. After I thought about it I realized if a weld broke it would just spin. With Double D having the flats if a weld broke you would still have the flats & could most likely limp it to somewhere to get fixed.
I have just put the CV front in my 68 and appreciate all of the advise and pictures that everyone includes. I am also installing a 302 with a manual tranny in mine, and I am curious to know what type of headers and maybe even a part number if you can remember. Thank you
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