P0401 EGR flow insufficient?
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1
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EGR Valve and DPFE bad!
Hello all.
Very nice timing on my joining FTE and checking the posts, as I just had my EGR and DPFE both go out. Or so says the dealer. Code 1401.
I'm more of a mechanic wanna-be than a mechanic and I was wondering if anyone knew where I can get good diagrams for these repairs? I have the haynes, but the picture stinks.
Any tips or info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Very nice timing on my joining FTE and checking the posts, as I just had my EGR and DPFE both go out. Or so says the dealer. Code 1401.
I'm more of a mechanic wanna-be than a mechanic and I was wondering if anyone knew where I can get good diagrams for these repairs? I have the haynes, but the picture stinks.
Any tips or info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by 1999RangerBoy; Apr 22, 2004 at 09:56 PM.
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4
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Thanks Ken00,
I am going to check the dealer tomorrow. All the part departments were closed today by the time i called. I was just wondering if there were any other stores that might have better prices. Worst case i'll be more than happy to get it at the dealer.
Thanks again.
I am going to check the dealer tomorrow. All the part departments were closed today by the time i called. I was just wondering if there were any other stores that might have better prices. Worst case i'll be more than happy to get it at the dealer.
Thanks again.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Jackhouser, I checked with the Ford dealer and a DPFE sensor from them is $87. I plan on replacing mine in a few weeks and I will let you know how it goes. The EGR is priced at $60 from the dealer. I also called Napa auto parts and they don't carry a DPFE sensor according to the clerk that I talked to.
Good luck!
John
Good luck!
John
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 13
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The way to test for a faulty DPFE sensor is to measure the voltage between two points on the wire harness by backprobing when the KOEO and then start the engine, let it warm and measure the same pins. If the voltage doesn't change, then your sensor is bad because EGR should flow at IDLE at least slightly. Mine was just barely out of spec but it was enough to throw a code. I replaced the sensor and it's all good. Pep Boys has the METAL TYPE (yuck) for $50 and ford wanted $90 btw..
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by jcandrew
Hello 2001 Ranger,
Good information as I am considering if I should replace my DPFE sensor or not. Do you happend to know if the extended warranty was through the emmissions warranty or through Ford in general. Just curious... Perhaps it wouldn't hurt for me to swing my my dealer tomorrow and inquire?
Good information as I am considering if I should replace my DPFE sensor or not. Do you happend to know if the extended warranty was through the emmissions warranty or through Ford in general. Just curious... Perhaps it wouldn't hurt for me to swing my my dealer tomorrow and inquire?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by Lby014
I have a 2000 Ranger XLT 3.0 Auto (just shy of 75k) and had the Engine Light come on. After paying the dealer to diagnose the light, it was the DPFE sensor. I was quoter $86 for the part and $200+ for labor. I had purchase the for extra care warranty, but the DPFE Sensor is only covered by the Ford premium care warranty. From the picture of where the sensor is and how accessible it is, I'm leaning towards just doing it myself. Great info on this thread!
You might also find the DPFE cheaper at some auto parts stores. Keep in mind too that the upgraded DPFE (the one you want) is plastic, as opposed to aluminum, and some places still have the metal ones in their stock and are trying to unload them.
Good luck and welcome to FTE!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Just a quick update...I did end up changing my DPFE sensor a few months ago. I think I paid around $60 for it at the Ford dealer and I installed it myself in about 20 minutes. What took the most time is that I also changed the rubber hoses that attached to it by the dealer's recommendation as I guess they can become clogged. Mine looked fine but since I had the new hoses I changed them anyway. To make a long story short it improved how my engine ran markely in that I didn't get anymore CEL and it quit missing--no change in pinging on hot days however. 
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<TABLE id=PartDetailTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=547 border=0><TBODY><TR id=DescriptionRow><TD align=left colSpan=3></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>
This is the DPFE sensor, it is usually located on the upper intake.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left width=268><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=268 align=left border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle width=268><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=268 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=middle width=268>
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
This is the DPFE sensor, it is usually located on the upper intake.</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left width=268><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=268 align=left border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle width=268><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=268 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=middle width=268>;)
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6
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1996 ranger, P0401
Hi, I'm new to this. I hope I'm posting this message in the right place, but I'm hoping someone out there can help me.
I drive a two wheel drive, 96' Ranger, 4.0 engine. I have had my check engine light on for a while now, when I ran the scanner I got the code P0401. After replacing the DPFE sensor and the EGR valve the check engine light is still on, any ideas of what my next step should be?
I drive a two wheel drive, 96' Ranger, 4.0 engine. I have had my check engine light on for a while now, when I ran the scanner I got the code P0401. After replacing the DPFE sensor and the EGR valve the check engine light is still on, any ideas of what my next step should be?
New User
Joined: Sep 2005
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Yes, I've cleared the codes by removing the negative connection to the battery for 15-20 minutes. It only gets my hopes up. I think I've solved the problem and then it comes back. I first replaced the EGR valve, cleared the code and then a day later it came back. I cleared it with the scanner and a day later it came back. I then replaced the sensor, cleared it by disconnecting the battery and the code came back.
I'm new at this type of work and have no idea what to do next.
I'm new at this type of work and have no idea what to do next.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: South Texas
Your next step is to check the vacuum lines running to/from the valve, sensor and the engine. Are any loose, broken, leaking in any way? If you don't have any vacuum leaks then I think you check the EGR ports on the intake for carbon buildup. I've read somewhere on this board about these ports getting plugged with carbon and having to be cleaned out by hand.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 80
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Remove the egr valve from the intake and clean the carbon out of the passage and you should be good to go.
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