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when you say shake do you mean like you can look over to your passenger seat and it will be basically vibrating my truck seems to be doing that aswell rather annoying. but i just rotated my tires and it seemed to appear i was thinking maybe one wasnt balanced very well
when you say shake do you mean like you can look over to your passenger seat and it will be basically vibrating my truck seems to be doing that aswell rather annoying. but i just rotated my tires and it seemed to appear i was thinking maybe one wasnt balanced very well
A driveline shake will differ on amount of power you give it, if it shakes under power usually its the driveshaft working around. If it shakes at just certain speeds it may be a tire thing. Grab the driveshaft at support brg and try to move it, if it's sloppy it's a problem. Also try twisting it and look too see if there is any play in the u/joints.
If its lifted and has more than 50-60k odds are you will have wear. I was amazed how smooth it got after replacing all my u/j and support.
For starters go to Ford and buy the stock oil filter cap, oil filter can be purchaced at wal-mart or the Ford dealer. There are IPR issues and all kinds of problems linked to aftermarket filters that dont fit correctly in the engine. These guys go nuts bout it, do that by all means.
As far as the drive line goes: if your a mechanical guy with a hammer and a vise on a bench under $100.00 will cover 3 u/j and bearing. The bearing will practically fall off of shaft with a bit of heat from a turbo torch. Same when you put new brg assy on put some heat to inside of race to expand and slip back on drive line.
It's a half hour job and you might check u-tube for some video. Ford garage cost I dont know.
yea i learned the oil filter cap the hard way. I found this forum while i was still driving my ole 7.3 and learned alot. bought the 6.0 and never checked until i was having problems and it was already to late. now i am a daily stalker trying to take in as much info as i can so i can prevent (or at least see coming) any future problems and possibly eliminate them.
just priced the U joints and bearing at 3 different dealers and its gonna be $240 for parts. hopefully get it done this weekend. I wish i could find the place to get it all for $75
just priced the U joints and bearing at 3 different dealers and its gonna be $240 for parts. hopefully get it done this weekend. I wish i could find the place to get it all for $75
Go to Auto Zone or Napa, they both sell american made parts that are beter than the non greasable factory stuff. I know I didn't spend more than $100.00 on all of it.
Pep Boys even Oreily/Kragen Just make sure they are American and greasable and they will last longer than the factory u/j,s
yea i learned the oil filter cap the hard way. I found this forum while i was still driving my ole 7.3 and learned alot. bought the 6.0 and never checked until i was having problems and it was already to late. now i am a daily stalker trying to take in as much info as i can so i can prevent (or at least see coming) any future problems and possibly eliminate them.
Ok I went through my receipts I went to a Car Quest store and bought 3 neapco 2-0054 u/joints for $20.27 ea and the brg they sold me was wrong and I picked that up at auto zone for 27.20 and it was a timken part total to the penny was $94.83 and I live in the Brake Your Leg Loui state of California so surely you can do better than me
definately gonna look at the timken. and what do you know just found them. right under $100 for all 3 joints and carrier bearing. SCORE!
A helpfull hint when your putting in u/joints put a small amount of grease into the cups to help keep all the roller brgs in place. Then use a socket close to same size of cups that will fit through the yoke to press them in tight with the vise. Put in one keeper and press it tight to it then put other keeper in, bla bla bla X3. its really easy to do yourself and I'm sure there are clips on u-tube to help it along.
You will notice how smooth you roll off stop sign when powering up. Over time you don't notice the shake and you get used to it. You might look at oiling up the shackles and a bit of oil under the teflon slides in the spring stack smoothes out the spring flex as well.
Let me know how you do,just make sure everything is clean when slipping new u/j in and a little oil on everything goes a long ways when pressing things together.
I plan on doing it at work tomorrow. I can drop the drive shaft when i get here and we have a press and all the bearing pullers you could ask for. Oil and grease is not an issue either we hav eplenty of that. The company maintains our own fleet of Peterbuilts (around 50) so the tools and lube should be easily accesible. now everyone wondering why i am carrying a drive shaft in my office that may be another story.
I just changed my egr cooler in the process I had to remove my ficm, now everything is back together and I have the same crazy shake you are taking about, so maybe I didn't connect my ficm back up correctly?
QUOTE=motor-man;11719391]Okay i kind of figured this...I guess i didn't get to replacing by bad ficm fast enough?!? Also a bit misleading seeing as how i have no miss or smoke at idle...
Roasted who knows if we've got the same problem or not but this is much worse than a slight vibration...[/QUOTE]