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ECU / PCM replacement
#1
ECU / PCM replacement
Guys couple of Q's.
1. Can a ECU / PCM go bad? What may be the reason here for? What is the average lifetime of a ECU / PCM?
2. Can any ECU/PCM of any any diesel truck 7.3 fit each other just as the IDM swapping or replacement.
e.g. a 2002 ECU F250 / 350 in a 1997 F350
1. Can a ECU / PCM go bad? What may be the reason here for? What is the average lifetime of a ECU / PCM?
2. Can any ECU/PCM of any any diesel truck 7.3 fit each other just as the IDM swapping or replacement.
e.g. a 2002 ECU F250 / 350 in a 1997 F350
#2
They can go bad. I know they can just loose their minds per say and need to be re-flashed also.
You pretty much have to stick with the same DTC type as far as I know. But I could be wrong about that. The California PCMs are a different animal. The Super Duty PCM is different than ours too. They can be made to function in these rigs. But unless you were going with a 4R100 in place a E40D I don't see the advantage.
Your PCM code can be read on the driver side of it if you have good eyes. I used a inspection mirror.
You pretty much have to stick with the same DTC type as far as I know. But I could be wrong about that. The California PCMs are a different animal. The Super Duty PCM is different than ours too. They can be made to function in these rigs. But unless you were going with a 4R100 in place a E40D I don't see the advantage.
Your PCM code can be read on the driver side of it if you have good eyes. I used a inspection mirror.
#4
They can go bad. I know they can just loose their minds per say and need to be re-flashed also.
You pretty much have to stick with the same DTC type as far as I know. But I could be wrong about that. The California PCMs are a different animal. The Super Duty PCM is different than ours too. They can be made to function in these rigs. But unless you were going with a 4R100 in place a E40D I don't see the advantage.
Your PCM code can be read on the driver side of it if you have good eyes. I used a inspection mirror.
You pretty much have to stick with the same DTC type as far as I know. But I could be wrong about that. The California PCMs are a different animal. The Super Duty PCM is different than ours too. They can be made to function in these rigs. But unless you were going with a 4R100 in place a E40D I don't see the advantage.
Your PCM code can be read on the driver side of it if you have good eyes. I used a inspection mirror.
My explain to him and to you what happen about 2 yrs ago.
I bought this truck that had about 2 to 3 yrs not running and missing some engine parts like altinator, vaccuum pump, powersteering defect and brake lines. So I fixed it with some help and it started.(Great sound of truck)
About running this truck for less than a month a stopped at a tireshop to fill the tires and when leaving it just stopped as of the clutch has slipped out of my foot., but wich as not the case. I try to start and start, cranks, cranks but no start. So at that point tow it home.
I found a mechanic who had a scanner and had done a quick diagnose for me and he said that the readings he got was as follows: 1 to eight injectors are open and two readings. now heres is the problem that of two years ago I got confused with the IDM or PCM. But I recall the guy say something of ECU failure.
So far I have checked all advice I have could have read and got about fuses, bowl heater wire connection, water in IDM, battery and all the other factor which I don't see as failure or defect.
So this is the problem I have a great truck big and tough and it is not running.
Now about flashing the ECU / PCM do I have to buy a special tool for it or what?
Thanks for your advice
#5
I would think if you could "communicate" with the pcm to scan for codes that would mean it is still good.......To cover the basics... Do you get the wait to start light? when you are cranking to start does your tachometer bounce up off the needle? do you have fuel in your fuel bowl? fuel pressure?
#7
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#8
I would think if you could "communicate" with the pcm to scan for codes that would mean it is still good.......To cover the basics... Do you get the wait to start light? when you are cranking to start does your tachometer bounce up off the needle? do you have fuel in your fuel bowl? fuel pressure?
My friend said that it could have been possible that I have bumped in a hole and that caused the pcm to shock and short itsself in kind a way that I need to reprogram the pcm again. I can recall that I have bumped just before it wnt off.
I still need to measure the fuses. They all look ok.
#9
It seems like we have been through all this before, lol.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-start-2.html
Fuse #22 under the hood is the power to the PCM. Check fuse 22 with a meter. Also swap the PCM relay with another one in the relay center (the horn relay is a good one to swap with) and see what you get then.Don't do anything else until you check this fuse, alright?
If Fuse 22 is good and swapping the relays does not help, check the red wire that goes into the wiring connector to the PCM (from the engine compartment side). If you don't have 12V there the PCM does not have power.
If you have power to the PCM and you're not getting a "wait to start" light (I assume you did get the light before all this started happening) I think you are looking at a bad PCM.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-start-2.html
Fuse #22 under the hood is the power to the PCM. Check fuse 22 with a meter. Also swap the PCM relay with another one in the relay center (the horn relay is a good one to swap with) and see what you get then.Don't do anything else until you check this fuse, alright?
If Fuse 22 is good and swapping the relays does not help, check the red wire that goes into the wiring connector to the PCM (from the engine compartment side). If you don't have 12V there the PCM does not have power.
If you have power to the PCM and you're not getting a "wait to start" light (I assume you did get the light before all this started happening) I think you are looking at a bad PCM.
#10
The wts light does not come on, the cel comes and goes out fast, there is fuel in the bowl, the rpm doesn't move.
My friend said that it could have been possible that I have bumped in a hole and that caused the pcm to shock and short itsself in kind a way that I need to reprogram the pcm again. I can recall that I have bumped just before it wnt off.
I still need to measure the fuses. They all look ok.
My friend said that it could have been possible that I have bumped in a hole and that caused the pcm to shock and short itsself in kind a way that I need to reprogram the pcm again. I can recall that I have bumped just before it wnt off.
I still need to measure the fuses. They all look ok.
your faster nate!!
#13
It seems like we have been through all this before, lol.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-start-2.html
Fuse #22 under the hood is the power to the PCM. Check fuse 22 with a meter. Also swap the PCM relay with another one in the relay center (the horn relay is a good one to swap with) and see what you get then.Don't do anything else until you check this fuse, alright?
If Fuse 22 is good and swapping the relays does not help, check the red wire that goes into the wiring connector to the PCM (from the engine compartment side). If you don't have 12V there the PCM does not have power.
If you have power to the PCM and you're not getting a "wait to start" light (I assume you did get the light before all this started happening) I think you are looking at a bad PCM.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-start-2.html
Fuse #22 under the hood is the power to the PCM. Check fuse 22 with a meter. Also swap the PCM relay with another one in the relay center (the horn relay is a good one to swap with) and see what you get then.Don't do anything else until you check this fuse, alright?
If Fuse 22 is good and swapping the relays does not help, check the red wire that goes into the wiring connector to the PCM (from the engine compartment side). If you don't have 12V there the PCM does not have power.
If you have power to the PCM and you're not getting a "wait to start" light (I assume you did get the light before all this started happening) I think you are looking at a bad PCM.
There were two red wires on the pcm that came from the engine comp. more spec from uner the relays. Both have 12v but no wts light. all fuses are ok. relays are ok. So I will assume or believe that pcm has gone bad.
My Q on this matter.
I was searching and found out about flashing / reprogramming (er) should I do this with the pcm or look for a new or remanufactured one. I have found reman. for about $120 new ones will kill me at the moment. pls advice.
Look in to this for me pls.
DriveWire - 1997 Ford F-350 XL 8 Cyl 7.3L Engine Control Unit
Edge Products Evolution Programmer 15000
Oh and my apol for repaeting the thread I taught to discuss the pcm only.
http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums.../party0031.gif
peace out
#14
here's one for you.
Ford 1997 PCM ECU ECM F250 F350 | eBay
i could be wrong or confused here, but why can he scan and communicate with the pcm if its gone bad??
Ford 1997 PCM ECU ECM F250 F350 | eBay
i could be wrong or confused here, but why can he scan and communicate with the pcm if its gone bad??
#15
here's one for you.
Ford 1997 PCM ECU ECM F250 F350 | eBay
i could be wrong or confused here, but why can he scan and communicate with the pcm if its gone bad??
Ford 1997 PCM ECU ECM F250 F350 | eBay
i could be wrong or confused here, but why can he scan and communicate with the pcm if its gone bad??
about comm with the pcm i don't know much, thats why i'm here with you guys to learn.
thx again
eugene