Have you ever seen the WTS light come on? I am wondering it the light is burned out. It would be a really stupid solution, but I have to ask. Also, is there anyone you know that you could swap PCM's with to see if that cures the problem? $120 for the PCM isn't a bad deal at all, but I hate to see you spend the money on that if you don't have to.

 

Ok will check if the light maybe burned out. About swapping I will check with an acquintance. Here peoole are very worried when swapping thins around. Would a 1999 F350 PCM work.

Should I place mine into theirs or "viseversa" when you say cures the problem when swapping what will happen will my pcm come back to life or to find out if it works or not?

thx,

 

I don't think the '99 PCM will work in your obs. The IDM would, but not the PCM. It will have to be from a 94-97 PSD pickup to work.

Just to be safe, I would put your PCM into their truck and try it. That way if it doesn't work you're not likely to mess up their PCM with any issues you might have in your truck. If it works, then you know the PCM is not the issue.

 

Looks like your right man, sorry about that I just didn't pay enough attention..

 

Nate, I have just removed the panel with the lights(bulbs) and I can find any that says WTS I found the engine light bulb, belt, abs, amps, r/t l/t brakes and ill but no wts or similair

any ideas?

Eugene

 

The wait to start light isn't in the dash bezel itself, but in the diesel engine cluster to the right of the gauge cluster. Is that the one you're looking at? It would be in the upper left hand corner of the cluster in the center of this picture:

 

Here is a link to a video that shows the wait to start light in real time, it's in about the first 30 seconds of the video.

<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://v5.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=nn4b5s&s=5" height="420" width="440">

 

Thanks to you guys. I found and appeared that that the plug was not connected to the circuit board.
Connected and it comes on, but does not stays as long as the one in the video if I will have to guess it goes on and turns out in less then a second and together with the click of the GPR.

Another Q can the GPR affect all this? How long should the WTS stay on.

About the CPS should the metal move when starting. How close does it has to be against the camshaft pulley where it is located.

Thanks again Nate and Richdawg

PS: Nate what's that other switch and **** you have there? Just curious

 

I would take a look at the fuel bowl heater and see if it is still plugged in on the fuel bowl. it is possible that the heater is shorted enough to lower the system voltage from the PCM to levels where it won't start. The WTS light should stay on for 10-20 seconds when you turn the key on. It is also possible for the GPR (Glow Plug Relay) to short internally and draw the voltage down to levels where the PCM won't start the truck. You can unhook either one of the small wires from the GPR and try it and see whether the truck will start. Just tape off the wire when you unhook it to make sure you don't short it out by allowing it to touch something. If it is warm outside, I would unhook both the GPR and the fuel bowl heater and see what happens.

The switch and **** in that picture are for my DIY AIC (auxiliary idle controller). You set the emergency brake, flip the toggle switch on , then turn the **** to adjust the idle speed. It works okay, but it speeds up as the engine warms up so it isn't ideal. I may remove the **** and use the switch as a GPR defeat switch so I can turn off the glow plugs when I don't want them to run.

 

Nate, I double chkd the FBH it was unhooked. Before I went on the GPR I ddi the following.

I was reading about the IPC and IPR and the other sensors.

When I removed the connection from IPC sensor the CEL went out in a flash as previous and WTS went off in about 1 sec

Connected back and removed the EOT and the CEL stayed on and the WTS stayed on as well for that 10 secs and when starting it cranked liked with more wanting to start but no start at all. all this was done as well with the GPR off (small ones) aruba (caribbean) is always warm

What next master?

 

I was doing the following test according to this link
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual

I went and tested the ICP and could not get any Ohm reading on all of the connectors of the sensors. I have checked the volt reading from the harness and it is ok according to measurements. So I believe we can suspect a defect ICP?

I have measuered the IPR sensor can't get any ohm reading. Voltage reading from harness is as follows B+ 12.4 and 0.26v

EOT can't get any ohm reading.

 

I don't believe you will get any resistance readings on the actual sensor, just on the connector. Your EOT sensor sounds OK because disconnected engine assumes cold thus the longer WTS light. Have you tried unplugging the ICP and starting the engine?

 

yes did unplugged ICP cranks but no start

About the IPR where the connecter is is it normal for that small piece to move from one side to the other like a pivot?

 

Are you referring to the electrical connection or the solenoid?

The electrical connector is held in place by a wire bail. The solenoid is held in place with a 3/4 inch nut and should be hand snug against the solenoid.

 

yes where the connector is on top of the solenoid wt 3/4 nut it moves a bit from left to right. Is this normal?