I am with you Vern. I am forced to do my truck on a budget which will make the difference between it sitting in the driveway, or me actually getting to drive it.

By saving a few bucks here and there, my plan is working. I want a driver anyway, not a show car.

Thank all of you for posting your ideas. This web page/forum has been a great help to me.

 

OK, there is some truth, myth, and a little misinformation here. I used to rebuild these things on a daily basis at a previous job and I've got a better than average understanding of how they work.

There are two correct ways to convert these alternators to one wire operation and many incorrect ways. The two correct ways are to either disassemble the alternator and replace the voltage regulator with a true self-exciting one-wire regulator for about $35 or install the CORRECT conversion jumper plug to the terminal block which consists of a plug with a resistor and a jumper wire for the battery post attached to it. I think the plug is $10 or $15.

The self-exciting regulator is the truly hot ticket for anyone comfortable enough with an alternator to take it apart. There is a rubber plug that fits over the two spade terminals and there is absolutely nothing going to or from the alternator except the 10 guage battery lead with this setup. The conversion plug is much cheaper, but it isn't as pretty with the resistor and jumper wire hanging out of the side of the alternator. With this install, one terminal is jumpered to the battery post and stays hot all the time and the other is connected to it via the resistor to excite the regulator and make it start charging when the alternator starts spinning and the voltage is increased through the resistor past the breakover voltage required to excite the regulator. The function of this resistor is normally accomplished through the idiot light bulb or guage in the original vehicle. And yes, it will draw the battery down over an extended period of time, but no more so than the radio and computer memory would.

If the wrong terminal is jumpered or something is wired incorrectly such as to the ignition switch, the aforementioned troubles of quickly draining the battery and reduced alternator or battery life can be realized as well as a condition that will not allow the engine to be shut off with the ignition switch after it is started. I can't remember off the top of my head which terminal is which without looking at the schematics. I gave these things up for Ford alternators a long time ago.

I'm not saying that anyone here is not having success with another method, I'm just saying that I don't understand how.

Lastly, I've still got a brand spankin' new chrome alternator with the foolproof self exciting regulator installed that never made it onto it's intended vehicle. I'm willing to make somebody a deal if there is any interest. Send me a private message offline.