Tom,

Could you verify the exact hookup to convert to one-wire? What size wire is used from BAT to #2 connection (and verify that it does run to #2). I have a 80-100 AMP alternator off an 86 Buick Century that has a pulley for a wide serpentine type belt. This alternator is practically new. I don't see why I can't just change the pulley to a V-belt pulley and hook it up as a one-wire. Anyone think otherwise?

 

Tom,

I just had an idea on the battery drain problem with this wiring setup. What if you fed the #2 prong with a 12 volt source that was hot only when the switch was on. That way the field couldn't get "excited" until you turned on the switch, right? Wouldn't that prevent the battery drain?

 

I used a small wire for the jumper, I'm sure of the gauge off the top of my head but it doesn't require a very big lead. I will look at my setup and post the info regarding the wire size, alt model number and jumper lug.

You could wire the jumper to a switched source, should work fine but I have not had a problem with battery drain....YET.

 

Just a quick note on installing the jumper.....IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA.....1. it holds the regulator in an on state, meaning it is always will shorten its life. 2. when the regulator is on it takes power to run, therefore your battery will drain. 3. its ok to do, because the auto electrical shop will love you..coming in for parts all the time. just ask...I know. bought a 3 wire hooked up the jumper....few days later battery dead, charged the battery back up...fine for a few days then dead again, charged it back up...now not as good due to old battery, ok new battery...now wont charge...alt dead... in for repair and guy asks how I had this hooked up...so I explained it to him.....did I get an earful...well now its a 1 wire and only ran me about 30 plus labor and it looks like new now.

Just My .02

Glack

 

Like I said, buy a chrome 1 wire for 95 bucks or less for a non chrome at a local parts store and do the job right the first time. May cost more now , but what is your time and agravation worth in the long run. I would rather spend my time cruising around in the old truck!

Chrome looks good too!

 

WOW, sounds like you guys have had alot of problems with this setup. Mines been in and working flawlessly for 3 years. Haven't replaced the battery or the Alt. Maybe I'm just lucky.....but with my experience, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

But then again maybe I will just run the jumper from a switched 12v source and that should solve both of the issues that Glack has pointed out.

 

I would get the 1 wire alt. Altinator problems are the worst and you can't drive your vehicle with out one.

 

Would somebody PLEASE verify the wiring hookup for this? Several references have been made to running the jumper wire to the #2 terminal always followed by "I think". I have yet to see a positive statement as to exactly how the wiring is done...

 

Vern,
Here is how I did my 10SI and modified the GM wiring harness. The two pin connector on the side of the alternator has a large guage (10 on mine) red wire (terminal #2) and a small brown (20 awg) wire (terminal #1). When looking at the alternator with the pulley forward, the #1 terminal is on the left side and #2 is on the right side of the two pin connector.

The brown wire is deleted. This wire provides the ground to the dash board idiot light when the alternator is not operating.

The red wire is cut off and looped around to the "batt" terminal on the back of the alternator. Be sure you secure the other end (if you're modifying an existing harness). If you are starting from scratch, loop the wire from the connector to the "batt" terminal and then to the battery. A fusible link would be appropriate at the battery.

I remember seeing a pigtail at NAPA that contained the two pin connector and about a foot of wire to extend the harness, if needed. This would be a good place to start if you do not have the connector.

Good Luck,

 

Before I beat this thing to death, I am going to go to the yard tomorrow and yank one out of a wreck. I figure worst case I can use it as a core. So what Year GM comes with a 1 wire anyone know? I will need a V Pulley. And then does that wire go to the Pos side of the battery?

 

Medicpg,

I wish it were that simple. There is no GM/Delco alternator that comes as a one-wire. Thus, all the conversion talk here. It's an aftermarket phenomen. You can spend about $35 to buy a kit to convert a three wire to a one-wire or you can try what's been suggested here using a jumper wire.

 

Does the wire go to the positive terminal of the battery?

 

The one-wire alternators have just the large BAT wire which goes either directly to the battery or to a common battery post like the starter solenoid.

 

You can buy a 1 wire alternator localy, just go to any good parts shop, most performance and speed shops have them on the shelf. Like I said, $95 will buy a nice chrome one. JC Whitney also carrieds them for the same price. No need to try co convert one over or look for a core.

 

Brian,

There's no need to convert one if you have 95 bucks to spend on a new alternator! You would be surprised what an old retired guy on a budget would do to save 95 bucks (especially since I have three good 3 wire alternators sitting in the garage).