constant gas flow, even with engine off?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 81
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From: Portland, Oregon
I don't remember, is there a safety switch (or something??) on the oil pressure switch doohicky? I replaced that already, but maybe there's a reset button?
I have already checked, just to mark it off the checklist, the um...thing that if the truck is upside down it shuts it off. I'm totally spacing on what it's called even though I'm sure I just said it. I keep thinking ground fault interrupter, but thats not it.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Yeah, that safety system exists, but the pump(s) should fir for a second or two just turning the key from OFF to RUN, this is to pressurize the system.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 81
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From: Portland, Oregon
I'm REALLY hoping it's a relay issue (even though it has been replaced before...maybe it I needed to replace both (pump and switch)?)
Thanks all (esp you two) for having patience with me.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I can't really see the need to replace both if only one is having problems.
I'd have to re-read this entire thread but I see you asking about the intertia switch...
This is located passenger side, inside the cab, down near where the transmission tunnel & firewall meet.
It should have a round, red button or a white, rectangular one. There might be verbage on it explaining how to reset it.
That thing removes power to the pumps in the event of an impact, keeps from feeding gasoline to a fire.
But, again, I need to re-read this thread....
I'd have to re-read this entire thread but I see you asking about the intertia switch...
This is located passenger side, inside the cab, down near where the transmission tunnel & firewall meet.
It should have a round, red button or a white, rectangular one. There might be verbage on it explaining how to reset it.
That thing removes power to the pumps in the event of an impact, keeps from feeding gasoline to a fire.
But, again, I need to re-read this thread....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 81
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From: Portland, Oregon
I can't really see the need to replace both if only one is having problems.
I'd have to re-read this entire thread but I see you asking about the intertia switch...
This is located passenger side, inside the cab, down near where the transmission tunnel & firewall meet.
It should have a round, red button or a white, rectangular one. There might be verbage on it explaining how to reset it.
That thing removes power to the pumps in the event of an impact, keeps from feeding gasoline to a fire.
But, again, I need to re-read this thread....
I'd have to re-read this entire thread but I see you asking about the intertia switch...
This is located passenger side, inside the cab, down near where the transmission tunnel & firewall meet.
It should have a round, red button or a white, rectangular one. There might be verbage on it explaining how to reset it.
That thing removes power to the pumps in the event of an impact, keeps from feeding gasoline to a fire.
But, again, I need to re-read this thread....
But with the carb off right now, it wouldn't do me a lot of good just yet.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Ok, I just read - well, skimmed - this entire thread again...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but....
We have determined you have electric fuel pumps, correct? You are used to hearing them when turning the key from OFF to RUN but you don't hear that now, right?
You got it to kick & chug with starting fluid, right?
If so, this is a fuel delivery problem, isn't that what we figured out?
Someplace around here there are pictures of the Hot Fuel Handling System wiring diagram. Probably multiple pictures, to be honest. i am not sure how much that system changed over the years, or if there were different configurations of it.
Do you have a multimeter (aka DVOM)? I would figure out if you're getting electricity to the fuel pump or not.
You can also use the Ohmmeter to figure out if the in-tank pump is burned out or not by measuring for continuity between the pump's positive lead and ground.
An open circuit means a burned-out motor.
I'm not sure what we're doing with relays, though, I skimmed through that part....
Correct me if I'm wrong, but....
We have determined you have electric fuel pumps, correct? You are used to hearing them when turning the key from OFF to RUN but you don't hear that now, right?
You got it to kick & chug with starting fluid, right?
If so, this is a fuel delivery problem, isn't that what we figured out?
Someplace around here there are pictures of the Hot Fuel Handling System wiring diagram. Probably multiple pictures, to be honest. i am not sure how much that system changed over the years, or if there were different configurations of it.
Do you have a multimeter (aka DVOM)? I would figure out if you're getting electricity to the fuel pump or not.
You can also use the Ohmmeter to figure out if the in-tank pump is burned out or not by measuring for continuity between the pump's positive lead and ground.
An open circuit means a burned-out motor.
I'm not sure what we're doing with relays, though, I skimmed through that part....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
Ok, I just read - well, skimmed - this entire thread again...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but....
We have determined you have electric fuel pumps, correct? You are used to hearing them when turning the key from OFF to RUN but you don't hear that now, right?
You got it to kick & chug with starting fluid, right?
If so, this is a fuel delivery problem, isn't that what we figured out?
Someplace around here there are pictures of the Hot Fuel Handling System wiring diagram. Probably multiple pictures, to be honest. i am not sure how much that system changed over the years, or if there were different configurations of it.
Do you have a multimeter (aka DVOM)? I would figure out if you're getting electricity to the fuel pump or not.
You can also use the Ohmmeter to figure out if the in-tank pump is burned out or not by measuring for continuity between the pump's positive lead and ground.
An open circuit means a burned-out motor.
I'm not sure what we're doing with relays, though, I skimmed through that part....
Correct me if I'm wrong, but....
We have determined you have electric fuel pumps, correct? You are used to hearing them when turning the key from OFF to RUN but you don't hear that now, right?
You got it to kick & chug with starting fluid, right?
If so, this is a fuel delivery problem, isn't that what we figured out?
Someplace around here there are pictures of the Hot Fuel Handling System wiring diagram. Probably multiple pictures, to be honest. i am not sure how much that system changed over the years, or if there were different configurations of it.
Do you have a multimeter (aka DVOM)? I would figure out if you're getting electricity to the fuel pump or not.
You can also use the Ohmmeter to figure out if the in-tank pump is burned out or not by measuring for continuity between the pump's positive lead and ground.
An open circuit means a burned-out motor.
I'm not sure what we're doing with relays, though, I skimmed through that part....
But how do you access the pumps (to check it? I do have a multimeter btw). I can feel where the fuel lines go, but I can't see/feel where any power lines go to it. I'll check it again tomorrow (assuming it's not raining when I come back from work).
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The usual course is to lower (or maybe even drop) the tank(s).
Some people talk about it being easier to remove the bed but I don't buy that at all, just comparing the quantity and location and size of bolts tells me that.
Some people talk about it being easier to remove the bed but I don't buy that at all, just comparing the quantity and location and size of bolts tells me that.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Portland, Oregon
ok, thanks. I figured I would have to do that (it's similar to accessing the reverse switch and OD switch on my Volvo. Just simpler to drop the transmission because you need to wrists that bend in 3 different directions otherwise).
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
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From: Exmore, VA
Taking the bed off on a 26 year old truck will be a royal PITA, the cost of replacing the bolts will scare you. If you go that way, I would recommend cutting the nuts off and replacing them.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
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From: Dallas, GA
I guess I'm a little confused as to how we got this to be a fuel pump issue. If you go back to page 1, post #12, you state that when you were cranking the engine the fuel was coming out strongly leading us to believe that your pumps were working fine.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Portland, Oregon
It was, but when I did it again, it wasn't.
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