constant gas flow, even with engine off?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Portland, Oregon
Hrumph..I go to check for spark and my battery died (it was strong when the starting issue started, and worked fine earlier today).
It's on charge now.
distributor cap is new, coil is new. Plug wires are new, plugs are new(ish).
Could it be a faulty capacitor(?) that is on the coil?
It's on charge now.
distributor cap is new, coil is new. Plug wires are new, plugs are new(ish).
Could it be a faulty capacitor(?) that is on the coil?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 81
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From: Portland, Oregon
I hear that...
What I would suggest is start very basic.
Every engine needs spark and fuel...so start there.
See if you have spark, at the right time of cource...and see if you have fuel.
You know you have fuel to the carb...just don't know if you have enough of it (i.e. is your pump working)
Take the air cleaner off and look straight down the throat of the carb with a flashlight. Stroke the accelorator a couple time all the way. See if you have a good strong stream of fuel squirting into the carb.
If the truck has been sitting for a long time...check to see if it smells funky.
What I would suggest is start very basic.
Every engine needs spark and fuel...so start there.
See if you have spark, at the right time of cource...and see if you have fuel.
You know you have fuel to the carb...just don't know if you have enough of it (i.e. is your pump working)
Take the air cleaner off and look straight down the throat of the carb with a flashlight. Stroke the accelorator a couple time all the way. See if you have a good strong stream of fuel squirting into the carb.
If the truck has been sitting for a long time...check to see if it smells funky.
There's no hint of turpentine/bad gas in it.
If you got gas sqirting in the carb...then that's a good start. Check that your choke is funcitoning properly as long as your there.
Next you would move on to see if you have spark.
Once you narrow it to fuel or spark...then you can further narrow it down to why one of those is not working.
If you feel it is flooding...not based on the fuel coming out of the fuel line, Then hold the accelerator pedel to the floor as you crank it
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
If it turns out to be something in the ignition...I could be a long list of things. Capacitor is one sure.
Go back a step though. You found that you have gas to the carb. But you have not determined if the carb itself is functioning properly to distribute the fuel to the intake/engine.
Try what I said earlier about pumping the gas and looking for fuel squirting down the throat of the carb.
Go back a step though. You found that you have gas to the carb. But you have not determined if the carb itself is functioning properly to distribute the fuel to the intake/engine.
Try what I said earlier about pumping the gas and looking for fuel squirting down the throat of the carb.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Insert Tim The Tool Man Taylor sound effects:
Tim Allen's Home Improvement Grunt - YouTube
The capacitor is there only to remove ignition-caused noise from the radio, constant, rhythmic popping in this case.
There is one by the voltage regulator to remove alternator whine, too.
How would a failure there cause an ignition problem? I don't think it can; cripe, remove the thing(s) entirely if ya want (from an engine that runs) and I'll bet the ignition system doesn't notice.
Tim Allen's Home Improvement Grunt - YouTube
The capacitor is there only to remove ignition-caused noise from the radio, constant, rhythmic popping in this case.
There is one by the voltage regulator to remove alternator whine, too.
How would a failure there cause an ignition problem? I don't think it can; cripe, remove the thing(s) entirely if ya want (from an engine that runs) and I'll bet the ignition system doesn't notice.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
oh ok....I was thinking of the old points type distributor that had to have the capacitor there for fire the coil when the points opened. I just assumed it was there to do the same thing.
Duh...I guess that's the job of that little box over on the fender isn't it? I don't even have a radio....I guess I definately don't need that thing then do I?
Duh...I guess that's the job of that little box over on the fender isn't it? I don't even have a radio....I guess I definately don't need that thing then do I?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Actually, I just Googled. Wikipedia says:
Early capacitors were also known as condensers, a term that is still occasionally used today. The term was first used for this purpose by Alessandro Volta in 1782, with reference to the device's ability to store a higher density of electric charge than a normal isolated conductor.<sup id="cite_ref-6" class="reference">[7]</sup>
Posting Guru
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From: Dallas, GA
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Portland, Oregon
I checked the carburetor, and I couldn't see or tell if any gas was going in (engine off, key not in the ignition).
I pulled the throttle cable back and forth, moved the butterflies and didn't see anything.
If there is no gas getting to the carburetor, what would that suggest?
Clogged filter?
kneeling on the front of the grill is really comfortable on the knees.
I pulled the throttle cable back and forth, moved the butterflies and didn't see anything.
If there is no gas getting to the carburetor, what would that suggest?
Clogged filter?
kneeling on the front of the grill is really comfortable on the knees.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
Could be one of a few things
you may not be getting fuel into the bowl, either due to a clogged filter or the float stuck shut.
you should have the holley 4 barrel on there I think. If you do, there should be a screw on the passenger side of the bowl. This is there to check bowl level. take that out and see if there is any fuel in the bowl.
If there is not then you know one of those 2 things are bad.
If there is fuel in the bowl...then you may have a bad accelerator pump.
Try this before you do anything. Pour some good gas down the the throat of the carb. See if she will try to start, or even start. This will confirm you not getting fuel into the engine as the problem.
you may not be getting fuel into the bowl, either due to a clogged filter or the float stuck shut.
you should have the holley 4 barrel on there I think. If you do, there should be a screw on the passenger side of the bowl. This is there to check bowl level. take that out and see if there is any fuel in the bowl.
If there is not then you know one of those 2 things are bad.
If there is fuel in the bowl...then you may have a bad accelerator pump.
Try this before you do anything. Pour some good gas down the the throat of the carb. See if she will try to start, or even start. This will confirm you not getting fuel into the engine as the problem.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Portland, Oregon
actually, I replaced the (incorrect) carburetor with an edelbrock.
If you do, there should be a screw on the passenger side of the bowl. This is there to check bowl level. take that out and see if there is any fuel in the bowl.
If there is not then you know one of those 2 things are bad.
If there is fuel in the bowl...then you may have a bad accelerator pump.
Try this before you do anything. Pour some good gas down the the throat of the carb. See if she will try to start, or even start. This will confirm you not getting fuel into the engine as the problem.
If there is not then you know one of those 2 things are bad.
If there is fuel in the bowl...then you may have a bad accelerator pump.
Try this before you do anything. Pour some good gas down the the throat of the carb. See if she will try to start, or even start. This will confirm you not getting fuel into the engine as the problem.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
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From: Dallas, GA
Sounds like you're getting it narrowed down to a carb issue then. I'm not familiar with how to check bowl level on the Edelbrock's. Not too sure how to check much of anything on those to be honest.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Portland, Oregon
Thanks for all the help. There aren't too many screws to tweak on the carb (and my instructions are in the truck and I'll get them in the morning).
I like how this is potentially getting easier to fix...but it's annoying that I'm having to fix it. Heh.
Ah...owning old cars...
Ironically, I'm potentially buying an even older car, which will require a lot more repair work on it to make it drive able. But at least I'd be buying it KNOWING and EXPECTING to do it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
Ahh...looks like I'll have some reading to do tomorrow. I wonder if it's idle air screws, or something similar.
Thanks for all the help. There aren't too many screws to tweak on the carb (and my instructions are in the truck and I'll get them in the morning).
I like how this is potentially getting easier to fix...but it's annoying that I'm having to fix it. Heh.
Ah...owning old cars...
Ironically, I'm potentially buying an even older car, which will require a lot more repair work on it to make it drive able. But at least I'd be buying it KNOWING and EXPECTING to do it.
Thanks for all the help. There aren't too many screws to tweak on the carb (and my instructions are in the truck and I'll get them in the morning).
I like how this is potentially getting easier to fix...but it's annoying that I'm having to fix it. Heh.
Ah...owning old cars...
Ironically, I'm potentially buying an even older car, which will require a lot more repair work on it to make it drive able. But at least I'd be buying it KNOWING and EXPECTING to do it.
I don't know a lot about them but I wouldn't guess it's as simple as a screw adjustment. If you're not getting fuel down the throat when you strock it, that's a problem. Those carbs have an accelertor pump just like the holleys. I think all carbs have to have them...get that initial squirt of gas to get the engine rpm up so that vacuum can go to work and do the rest.