I just went to start my truck tonight for the first time in 3 weeks. Truck cranked over and started as usual but after idling for a few seconds began to idle extremely rough. I noticed the SES light came on and then the truck died. I Tried several times but truck wont start. It cranks over strong but no start. I then used my edge evolution programmer and pulled 3 codes....p1316, p1249, and code p0472.... I have my exhaust back pressure valve sensor disconnected so I figured that would explain the latter 2 codes. I have been researching for a few hours now and I think I may have a wire problem under valve covers(replaced entire glow plug system about 5 months ago and did the "quarter" mod) or an IDM problem. I don't know where I should start. Most wire connector problems said they had rough idling due to injectors not working, but I can't even get it to fire. I'm hoping that someone on here can point me in right direction. I Don't really want to take it to dealership if I can avoid but I don't have the capability of doing a buzz test either. The truck is an early 99 7.3l In november I replaced glow plugs, valve cover gaskets(with fifty cent mod, and glow plug relay. I also should mention that the truck has diesel thats been in the tank for about a month. Sorry for the rambling trying to cover everything I can think of. Any input is greatly appreciated. I have an oil leak in my pan so I am going to check oil level in the daylight tomorrow too. Thanks in advance!

 

The P1316 is generally associated with the UVCH, since you did the 50 cent mod that may not be an issue. But it does mean that the IDM has stored codes.

Are you getting a "Wait to Start" light?

Oil level might help.

Have you done the Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page?

Edit: sorry I missed the no Buzz test.

 

Yes i get the wait to start light. No i havent done the hutch mod yet. I stumbled across that last night too. Thats a strong possibilty condidering my filler next is rusted through and had a leak for at least 4 years now. I bet rust is making its way into tank.

 

Should i get a fuel pressure gauge and see what its putting out before dropping the tank?

 

Moved to the 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel forum.

 

Are you getting any smoke out of the tailpipe while cranking? Be sure to put the batteries on a charger. Weak batteries will turn the engine over fine, but won't provide enough voltage for the IDM to fire the injectors.

I'd start by checking the oil level in the HPOP reservoir and making sure your fuel bowl is full of fuel. If you've had a rusted filler neck, drain the fuel bowl into a clear jar and look to see how much water comes out.

For a cheap fuel pressure test, leave the drain valve open and turn the key on (not start) and see if the fuel coming out starts spraying with a lot of pressure. If it does, you're probably ok enough to start on fuel pressure.

 

Thanks as soon as i have a chance ill go through all that. I am getting a little slow rolling smoke.

 

I checked the fuel bowl by draining for water, I didnt notice any... took the bowl forever to drain... I did the open drain key on and it was spraying fuel out so it appears I am getting fuel pressure. Barring any set backs tonight I will check the IDM relay and attempt to check the HPOP. I don't know how to check the HPOP or what I'm looking for but I'm sure I can find it somewhere on here. I am also bringing home a large battery charger to place on truck. Can I charge both batteries by hooking to one side? Thanks for everyones time by the way!

 

Your batteries are wired in a series, so yes you can put the charger on one and it will charge both. Or you can take both out and charge individually. You'll get a better charge that way. Best way to tell if your batteries are going or one is gone is by doing a load test. Your batteries are only as strong as your weakest one!

 

Sorry... I'm sure you meant to say parallel instead of series. Just thought I'd prevent confusion.

 

Haha yep I did! Brain was thinking one thing, hand was typing another!

 

I am going to put a charger on the batteries. The truck did start though when all this happened. It sat for like 3 weeks but it started and ran a few seconds then sputtered out and has not fired since. It has a strong crank and a little bit of white smoke that rolls out of the exhaust upon cranking.
I am going to bring some tools home and examine the hpop after I figure out how to examine it. I also was thinking of trying to switch out my idm relay with the blower relay to see if maybe the relay went bad? Well I am still open to suggestions so I appreciate anyone that helps.

 

still no luck, my hpop has oil about an inch from the top when i removed the allen plug. I also switched the idm relay with blower relay.... still just cranks like crazy. I'm going nuts trying to diagnose this thing. Getting close to having it towed to dealership.

 

Could it be icp sensor ipr valve or the actual idm? Im completely lost on what to check next

 

Really to further diagnose you need to be able to view live data, IPR duty cycle% and ICP, will help with getting closer to finding the issue.

Where are you located maybe someone close might be able to assist?