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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

E250 suspension upgrade

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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
And as for weight ratings, i've never even looked at that. No idea what's the load capacity of my trucks, don't really care. I just load 'em up as much as I can, or when the frame sits down on the axle. Witch ever comes first.
i don't know about you john, but i've never been able to make a ford sit down on the axle, and i've loaded them plenty of times to the point that the tires won't let me go faster than 35 if i want to stay in my lane now if you said that was your standard for loading a bow-tie, i would believe you

and as for weight ratings, i'm always aware of those. not that i exactly follow the vehicle ratings, but i do pay a little more attention to the tire ratings. not that i exactly follow those ratings, but use them as a guide while considering the trip i have ahead of me.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 01:56 PM
  #17  
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Personally, I follow the weight ratings very carefully. Most of my vehicles operate on a commercial (farm) basis. The penalty for 1 lb over on their scale translates to SCREWED, with a 250 dollar fine, plus court fees, legal fees, insurance rape, etc. Over the 5 year period that the incident affects my insurance, the cost for a single incident is budgeted at 9100 dollars. If someone gets 2 incidents in 5 years, they are fired. We have a CAT certified scale on the farm, and anyone driving ANY farm owned vehicle (including our little transit connect) must roll the scale going in and out. If you get tagged and busted on an outbound run, and you didn't scale, its immediate dismissal.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Club Wagon



No offense, but pic gives the impression: "never even looked at" & "don't really care" about shock absorbers. Of course "when the frame sits down on the axle" who needs shocks? Or leaf springs for that matter? May as well just bolt axle directly to frame & have at it buckboard style?

In these trucks, not even having a shock, makes no difference in ride quality or load capacity. I don't know what's the big fuss about shocks. I can see on a half ton truck, even on the leaf springs in the back, bad shocks will make for a much better bouncier ride. Like on my '89 F150, it had all 4 original shocks when I bought it, and they all had leaked out, so it basically had no shocks, and I loved it, it floated down the road like a big Lincoln from the 70's. It had a nice bounce to it also, not a bad bounce to make you loose control, just that big old car bounce. Loved it. Now with 4 new shocks, rides like a truck again, but on a F250 or F350, having shocks in the back is totally useless.



And remember, I live in the salt belt..... don't judge a book by it's cover

I won't argue though, those are the original shocks on the truck, never replaced 'em, they gotta be bad by now.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 11:06 PM
  #19  
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well john, i have to say that i noticed quite an improvement when i replaced the shocks on my e350. i don't really notice it in bounciness, probably because i sit almost right on top of the front axle, but it makes a big difference in how much body roll you get when cornering, and in how much noise the toolboxes make with stuff jumping around inside
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 07:45 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
well john, i have to say that i noticed quite an improvement when i replaced the shocks on my e350. i don't really notice it in bounciness, probably because i sit almost right on top of the front axle, but it makes a big difference in how much body roll you get when cornering, and in how much noise the toolboxes make with stuff jumping around inside
Josh are you running the standard front sway bar or have a rear sway bar?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #21  
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i believe i just have the standard front bar. i haven't ever looked into upgrading it, as i'm satisfied how it is
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
i believe i just have the standard front bar. i haven't ever looked into upgrading it, as i'm satisfied how it is
I was just curious---I too drive with loaded tool boxes etc and having added new shocks, the rear sway bar along with heavier front bar too it makes for a better ride.

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:53 PM
  #23  
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My objective is to improve handling and (hopefully) level out the van. I passed state inspection, but the shop told me my rear springs were sagging. (I knew that!)

I do not have a rear sway bar, and funds right now are limited.

In a perfect world, I'd just buy a new van (350). But I can't. So i'm looking for the best move I can make at the most affordable cost.

Anyone ever use AirLift 5000 air bags to improve handling? That option would fit my budget right now.

I do not tow anyting, or have any plans to. But my daily load (tools/inventory) keeps me right around 8000#.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 05:29 PM
  #24  
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Are the air bags that much cheaper than having the springs redone?

I would lean really heavily toward the second option no matter what, and even more in that direction if the two springs are not sagging evenly. The best thing you can do is to balance out the weight and the effective weight on the tires so the van has a tendency to go and stop in a straight line when you want it to do so.

Good luck,
George
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 06:14 PM
  #25  
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Don't recall which vehicle I drove a short distance w/o rear shocks, but it was a dangerous ride. Got out, jumped on/off hitch & it kept bouncing like a PoGo Stick for several seconds! Of course it wasn't loaded until frame sat on axle. I drive on a lot of dirt & poor roads & really appreciate good shocks.

Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
In these trucks, not even having a shock, makes no difference in ride quality or load capacity. I don't know what's the big fuss about shocks.

I won't argue though, those are the original shocks on the truck, never replaced 'em, they gotta be bad by now.
Seems like a No Brainer, so "I won't argue" in defence of good shocks. Suffice it to say, that while I'm generally against state vehicle inspections, b/c I have fairly high maintenance standards & possess a gift for repair - I can also see the benefit of required inspections. Thanks for contributing alternative to replacing good OEM parts w/upgrade aftermarket stuff.

In regard to GVWR, Max Payload & tire Max Load specs I consider it a matter of routine to be aware what they are. In real world expediency has occasionally called for loading until bottomed out. Unfortunately expediency rarely means a scale, making it hard to tell how weak springs are, or if you're anywhere near MAX.

Since it usually takes a lot of stuff to squat my E150 down on axle bumper blocks, I do my best to stop loading while there's still some suspension travel left to leave a little rebound travel. If loading stuff like Sakrete or bundles of shingles it easy to count/multiply to get a bead on it. My F150 is much happier hauling overload, springs not remotely near bottoming.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:23 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by YoGeorge
Are the air bags that much cheaper than having the springs redone?

I would lean really heavily toward the second option no matter what, and even more in that direction if the two springs are not sagging evenly. The best thing you can do is to balance out the weight and the effective weight on the tires so the van has a tendency to go and stop in a straight line when you want it to do so.

Good luck,
George
Tufdog I'm going with George on this one-----the Airlift bags seem to cost about $300 but keep in mind they're intended more to assist rather than replace your rear springs. A bit of shopping around in your area will most likely find a good dedicated spring shop that's not a budget breaker. Ideally you want the stock suspension to be in top condition so putting even limited funds to that first might serve you better.

Shocks are important because they damp suspension travel which is their real purpose. If a spring is compressed from something like a bump and its not controlled or damped it continues "bouncing" for several cycles until that energy is absorbed by the natural action of the spring itself. Bad or no shocks allows those oscillations to continue which accelerates the spring losing its ability to support or control the suspension. Needless to say ineffective springs that are worn out or break unexpectedly is a huge inconvenience not to mention dangerous for all concerned.

If you're any where near Columbus, Ohio I have a few recommendations for spring shops I've used myself.

Let us know what happens with this please!
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #27  
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No spring shop anywhere near Philly would quote me less than $700 and that was to "add" a leaf. So I went for the Air-Lift kit. Took me 2.5 hours to install (along with new rear shocks). 30# of pressure lifted the rear over an inch. WOW, what a difference in ride and handling not to mention 1.5 more MPGs. I'm sorry I waited so long. I
 
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Old May 26, 2012 | 01:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tufdog71
No spring shop anywhere near Philly would quote me less than $700 and that was to "add" a leaf. So I went for the Air-Lift kit. Took me 2.5 hours to install (along with new rear shocks). 30# of pressure lifted the rear over an inch. WOW, what a difference in ride and handling not to mention 1.5 more MPGs. I'm sorry I waited so long. I
I'm glad you found your solution but am really wondering about the 1.5 more mpg...did it clean up your acne, make your waist size 4 inches smaller, and give you more energy too? (just kidding) I seriously am not understanding why your gas mileage would be up unless your van was pulled into alignment or something.

Thanks for the report,
George
 
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Old May 26, 2012 | 03:59 PM
  #29  
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Air bags are to aid, not constantly carry, look at where the load is placed, it's moved to the arch in the frame, not where the frame is designed, its a give like the arch in the springs. Shocks aren't to carry a load, but to limit the springs natural action of recoil, limiting bounce back, I don't suggest driving a vehicle without them, it'll limit control, I had coil overs on a Jeep, so stiff the light weight vehicle bounced off of the road. I've done spring packs myself, cutting them apart and replacing some with some from heavier packs, care in the number stacked, or the result is too stiff. The 3/4 and 1 tone are the same width, should be easy to swap the entire pack out.
 
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Old May 26, 2012 | 10:25 PM
  #30  
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Would be more interested in what a reputable "spring shop anywhere near Philly" determined about the condition of your heavily ladened E250 springs after inspecting them.

Originally Posted by tufdog71
No spring shop anywhere near Philly would quote me less than $700 and that was to "add" a leaf. I went for the Air-Lift kit. Took me 2.5 hours to install (along with new rear shocks). 30# of pressure lifted the rear over an inch. WOW, what a difference in ride and handling not to mention 1.5 more MPGs. I'm sorry I waited so long. I
IMHO an "Air-Lift kit" can never be a substitute for worn out springs in unsafe condition. Leaf springs don't just lift the rear, they attach the rear wheels/axle to the frame & are designed to withstand all the twisting forces of acceleration & braking, in addition to all the bashing from carrying loads over uneven surfaces.

Heavy spring steel leafs, shackles/bushings & U-bolts can't be replaced by shoving in air bags. If springs/shackles are shot air bags are a Quick & Dirty 'fix' that only provides lift. Air bags do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to help attach axle to frame.

Just Googled J.C. Whitney & they still sell leaf springs, even have some E250 springs discounted, ~$70 on clearance, plus $25 for shackle kit.

I'd never even consider adding an "Air-Lift kit" unless I knew my springs/shackles were in good condition.
 
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